Alejandro Jomar

When it comes to raw selvedge denim, I think we've all had our ups and downs — especially when you were just getting started: fit, shrinkage, and sizing are all common issues. I've basically had two raw selvedge denim "careers": one in high school where I was really into it as an enthusiast, and then a "rebirth" as a more informed adult, when I started my YouTube channel as a professional tailor. So today I'm sharing my full, professionally-informed experience with Gustin — the bad and the good — because I've now owned two pairs of their Straight fit jeans, and the story doesn't end where it started. I'm going over the pros, cons, fabrics, constructions, sizing and fit to help you buy the perfect pair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?vfocrfDrw96o Pros & Cons Here's what I thought about Gustin after wearing two different pairs of their jeans. What I liked: Unique, high-quality fabrics at a very reasonable price. American-made with Japanese raw selvedge denim — it ticks all the boxes for enthusiasts. Excellent construction details (chain stitching, flat-felled inseams, red accent stitching). Denim is high quality but not over-the-top slubby or neppy, so it's likely to appeal to anyone. The crowdfunding model means interesting specialty fabrics you won't find elsewhere. The new in-stock program usually means there are "ready to wear" pieces you don't have to wait to crowdfund. Downsides, not dealbreakers: The crowdfunding model can be frustrating, with most products requiring a lengthy wait to fulfill orders. (But again, they've now added a stock store.) The straight fit runs slim and low-rise — closer to a slim straight than a true, heritage straight, but they do offer a newer "Vintage Straight" fit. Significant shrinkage on my Viridians (size up). Pocket bag durability was an issue on my first pair. Slim and tall guys might not love the 34-inch inseam of sizes 29 through 33. Overview: Gustin Denim Gustin is one of those brands I keep coming back to. I'm surprised that I do, because they're also one of those brands with a crowdfunding model: the prices are very low because they have to confirm a lot of orders before they start to get the product made. This means you'll wait a few months between ordering and wearing. This kind of model was pretty popular in the early-mid 2010s when Gustin was founded. But today, if you're not swayed by the lower prices (or lower carbon footprint) of this business model, it's easy to not have the patience for it. However, Gustin is so good at finding really cool fabrics that I keep coming back to them anyway. 12-ounce purple sashiko, 20-ounce canvas pants, and Harris tweed jeans are just some examples. Plus, they now have a decent selection of "in stock" items you don't have to wait for. But I'm reviewing two of the products that Gustin made their name with: raw selvedge denim jeans. Further Reading What Is Selvedge Denim, Anyway? Learn why there's global community of obsessive denimheads dedicated to selvedge. Learn more → https://www.youtube.com/watch?vM6CN6d24qWE My First Pair: The Viridian Selvedge Let me start with the downs. My very first video on my YouTube channel was about the Gustin Viridian selvedge jeans which, although I just linked them, you can't buy anymore. (Not at the time of writing, anyway.) I want to be upfront: I love the fabric. Greencast denim really has a place in my heart. It has such a beautiful character that no other denim really captures, and I feel like it's an underserved market. (Fun fact: indigo dye initially makes for pretty green denim; it gets blue when you dye it more times and/or add other materials to the 'bath'.) But I've gotta be honest: I stopped wearing these jeans. They sat in my closet for six to eight months. The fit was just so off for me that I couldn't make it work anymore. Check out Alejandro's collab with Stridewise on tassel loafers! Gustin's Straight Leg Jeans: Fit & Sizing It's quite slim for a "Straight" leg But the Straight is a good for pairing with sport coats, dress shirts, or just a simple tee. If you like roomier fits, get their Vintage Straight or do what I did, since that fit wasn't available when I ordered: size up two sizes and then cold wash your jeans. I really hate to bash any brand, and that's not what I'm doing here. I'm just honestly sharing my experience with Gustin's Straight Fit, and you can take it for what it is. With the Viridians, I bought a 33 straight fit, even though I usually wear a 32. I sized up hoping for a baggier, true straight fit, because the dimensions listed on their site suggested what I found to be true: their straight has a lower rise and slimmer leg than I prefer. (To be fair, they've since added a "Vintage Straight" fit to their repertoire.) Even with that size up, these jeans almost fit like a skinny. I noticed it before washing, and after a cold wash and hang dry, they shrunk down a lot. It almost felt like they didn't account for the shrinkage — the length came up quite a bit. (You should know that when it shrinks, denim shrinks vertically more than horizontally.) The result? I couldn't even cuff them without getting a very cropped look, which only really works with baggier jeans. There wasn't enough room in the thigh, the rise was really low for a straight, and once they shrunk, that was it for me. It honestly made me curious about the difference between Gustin's straight and skinny fits, because this didn't feel like a straight fit at all. The dimensions of the Straight fit I got. Fast forward to pair number two — the Okayama Standard — and I already knew the move: size up. I went up a size again to a 34, and this time the fit landed much better. Gustin's straight fit is still more of a slim straight than a heritage straight, so if that's what you're expecting, adjust your expectations. Gustin's straight fit is still more of a slim straight than a heritage straight, so if that's what you're expecting, adjust your expectations. But for a modern slim-straight silhouette with a lower mid-rise, it actually works really well. It's the kind of fit that pairs easily with sport coats, dress shirts, or just a simple tee. Quality Concerns Here's the other thing that really disappointed me with the Viridians: after just three months of daily wear, the pocket bag already had a huge hole in it. And I didn't do anything laborious — I just lived my life as a tailor, not a construction worker! The pocket bag material felt cheap, so I wasn't totally surprised, but I was frustrated. No pocket bag shouldn't be ripping after three months, especially if it's on something as high quality as Japanese selvedge. I know better than most guys that it's really hard to make clothing and run a brand, so I really hesitate to criticize anyone with the guts to do this. But it was a letdown. Giving Gustin Another Shot: The Okayama Standard Brands evolve, and I respect any brand that's willing to improve. When Gustin launched their in-stock program, I felt like it showed they were thinking about growth and getting better. So I decided to give them another shot with the Okayama Standard, a classic Japanese indigo raw denim in their straight fit. And I'm glad I did. Gustin's Okayama Standard Review: Construction & Details The presentation on the Okayama Standard is super clean. My first Gustin pair was well-made too, but you can tell they've gotten even cleaner with the pattern work and sewing. Gustin does tucked-in belt loops, which is more of a modern raw denim thing than something inspired by vintage jeans. But these kinds of belt loops are actually stronger than the traditional style you get on a lot of "repro" jeans. You've also got really minimalist rivets on the front and coin pockets with precise placement and clean stitching. Further Reading The 5 Best Raw Denim Brands You Can Buy After years of trial and error, these are my top denim brands for men. Learn more → On the inside of the coin pocket, there's no hidden selvedge ID, but you do get Gustin's signature red chain stitch detail on the inside. They've been doing those red accent stitches since 2013, and I've always loved it. And don't worry about losing the selvedge ID in the coin pocket — the front fly features this beautiful orange-line selvedge running up and down that I've genuinely never seen before. Gustin isn't trying to make a reproduction piece — they're just trying to make a good garment. The chain stitching on both the top and bottom of the waistband is another standout. A lot of Japanese repro brands skip it on top because it's not traditional, but Gustin isn't trying to make a reproduction piece — they're just trying to make a good garment. The inseam uses a flat-felled construction instead of an overlock stitch, which is significantly stronger and built to last years. And the back pocket has Gustin's signature single blue stitch running horizontally — simple, clean, and the kind of thing that'll fade beautifully into the rest of the jean. Branding is kept to a minimum throughout. Just the Gustin tag inside, the "Sewn in California" label, and a really classy leather patch that'll develop its own character over time. Gustin's Okayama Standard: Denim Quality, Fabric, and Fades Stiff and starchy like all good raw denim Not a ton of slub, nep, hair, or other "flaws" that some enthusiasts like This means it's a versatile denim that will appeal to most guys The Okayama Standard is 14.5 oz sanforized denim — it's not one-wash, it's truly raw. And honestly, I haven't felt something this crispy in a long time. It's got this buttery smooth hand combined with that slight ruggedness you want from unwashed denim. Minimal slub, not super hairy, a clean, everyday fabric that's going to let the fades speak for themselves. As for the Viridians, even though the fit didn't work out, the greencast fabric faded beautifully in the areas that got wear. It's a shame the fit killed it for me, because that color really was something special. Further Reading The Ultimate Guide to Getting the Best Denim Fades I met with Zeke Hartwell from Naked & Famous to learn how he achieves dramatic fades. Learn more → The Value: Is Gustin Worth It? For what you're getting — quality Japanese denim, clean construction, chain stitching, flat-felled inseams, selvedge details — at Gustin's price point? That's genuinely hard to beat. The crowdfunding model cuts out the retail markup, and it shows. My issue with the Viridians wasn't really about value,it was about fit. If the fit works for your body, you're getting a lot of denim for the money. And again, they've added more fits to their line-up since I purchased: they used to just have Straight and Slim, but now there's Vintage Straight and Skinny. Who Is Gustin For? If you like a slimmer straight leg without going full skinny, Gustin's Straight fit is for you. If not, you have three other fits to choose from. If you don't need a long inseam, you'll fit right in. (The jeans arrive with a 34 or 36-inch inseam, just remember you might lose up to an inch when you wash them.) If you love specialty and novelty fabrics at a reasonable cost, this brand will keep you excited. And if you're a minimalist who just wants a solid pair of jeans that'll fade beautifully and last, Gustin delivers. Wrapping Up So where do I stand on Gustin? After two pairs and a lot of mixed feelings, I'd say they're a brand that's genuinely improving. Once I figured out their sizing and once they opened their in-stock program, I realized that Gustin is a really solid brand. I'm probably done with their denim jeans for now — there are other brands that fit my body better — but I'm definitely going to try their tops, jackets, and shirts. They do some really interesting stuff there, and those are easier to size for a relaxed fit. With the price, the fabric variety (truly impressive), and their expansion to four fits, Gustin might be exactly your brand. If you don't mind the potential wait, I'd encourage you to give them a shot.