Sandeep Rath

Axel Arigato's Clean 90 sneaker doesn't need scream for attention to turn heads; it's sleek and understated, but quietly luxurious. They elevate your outfit without outshining it, blending Scandinavian minimalism with Tokyo streetwear influences and just enough 90s throwback style to make you feel like you're wearing something deliberate. The Clean 90 was my first foray into Axel Arigato footwear. Over the years, I have owned a wide variety of minimalist leather sneakers that I'll compare these with later in the review — I'd always heard of Axel Arigato mentioned alongside leading brands like Common Projects and Koio, so I was excited to get a chance to finally try them. At this point, I think I have more shoes than clothes, but let’s dive into this review: we'll look at the pros and cons, the competing brands, and all the details that make these sneakers so sought-after! Axel Arigato Clean 90 Suede: Pros & Cons Let's start at the ending with this summary of this review! These are the pros and cons of these influential kicks. Pros: Construction: Sustainable (LWG-certified) leather, 20% recycled soles, soft leather lining Versatility: Clean, minimal silhouette works with anything, particularly elevated outfits during spring, summer, and fall weather Handmade construction: Handmade in small batches at family-owned factories in Porto, Portugal Durability: The stitched-and-glued cupsole construction means the sole won't peel off like cheaper sneaks Sizing: Some half sizes are available, which is uncommon in this niche Cons: Fit: Wide sizes are not available The tongue can get uncomfortable: The tongue is not gusseted; it could move around while walking Price: $305 is pricey for a casual sneaker About Axel Arigato: Scandinavian Design Meets Japanese Streetwear In a space crowded by Italian heritage, Axel Arigato hails from Scandinavia: co-founded in 2014 by CEO Albin Johansson and creative director Max Svärdh in Gothenburg, Sweden. Touted as a design-first, direct-to-consumer label, they've built something of a cult following by constantly releasing new models, often in collaboration with artists and influencers both popular and underground, all exuding a certain European coolness that doesn’t feel forced. The two founders explained the origin of the brand name in an interview published on Sneaker Jagers in 2024: “Firstly, the name is a reference to a mythical figure who will live on long after us. Also, 'Arigato' means 'thank you' in Japanese, which is a reference to the Japanese influences reflected in the designs. The literal translation of Axel Arigato is 'hard to exist', which also means valuable.” Axel Arigato Clean 90 Suede: Design & Aesthetic Subtle detailing: 'Arigato' stamp in metallic gold and clean stitching Versatility: Combination of neutral tone and clean look Origin: Handmade in Portugal The Clean 90 sneaker line has been an Axel Arigato icon ever since its release in 2016. My Taupe suede version really hits the sweet spot between dressed up and dressed down. The branding is subtle: a gold 'Arigato' stamp on the lateral side is all it needs. (And it makes my sneakers seem so polite.) Like most high-end sneaker brands, the shoes come with a branded shoe bag to keep your suede sneakers protected from dust and debris when you are not rocking them with an elevated outfit. Unlike, or not-quite-like most competitors, the silhouette is not overly narrow: it has a little more volume than the ultra low sneakers you'll find coming out of Italy. The stitching is clean and minimalist, and blind eyelets add to the less-is-more vibe. The neutral tone, right between brown and grey, makes it surprisingly versatile to wear with dark wash denim as well as chinos or cropped trousers. Materials & Craftsmanship of the Clean 90 Suede Upper: 93% Suede + 7% Leather Lining: 63% Leather + 29% recycled polyester + 8% microfiber Sole: 80% rubber + 20% recycled rubber Axel Arigato isn’t messing around with materials. The upper is a smooth Italian suede that feels almost buttery to the touch. Thick but not stiff, you can tell it’s been treated for durability. A key point to highlight here is that almost all of the leather and suede used by Axel Arigato is certified gold or silver by the Leather Working Group (LWG), which is a third-party standard that promotes sustainable leather production processes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?vom8iHVclQxc An episode of the Full Grain Podcast where Stridewise and Nick Horween discuss how the Leather Working Group works. Inside, the leather and recycled polyester lining helps with breathability and moisture control. The company uses recycled polyester from the SEAQUAL INITIATIVE and at least 20% recycled rubber in the outsole, as a show of commitment to sustainability. The rubber outsole is comfortable, flexible, and has excellent grip for a lifestyle sneaker. It is both cemented (glued) and stitched to the upper to offer added durability. Other premium sneakers, like those from Common Projects, Koio, Oliver Cabell, and Thursday Boot Company, use similar construction. The insole is cushioned enough for all-day wear through cobblestone streets or concrete jungles. However, I would caution against using them on muddy ground as it can easily stain the light colored suede, which hasn't been treated for water / stain resistance. The sneakers are handmade in Porto, Portugal, by small, family-run factories, and they do indeed feel like they've been made with care: nothing feels rushed or cheap. Fit & Sizing: True to Size with a Glove-Like Feel Size up if you’re between sizes Size availability: Axel Arigato offers a few half sizes in US sizing. No wide size available. Axel Arigato offers a few half sizes (in US sizing), but they are mostly mapped to EU sizes. I normally wear size 11.5 in US sizing. I ordered two pairs of Axel Arigato, a size 44 and a size 45. EU 45 was spot on. So, if you’re between sizes, I’d definitely lean toward sizing up, especially if you’re planning to wear thicker socks. Unfortunately, it does not offer wide (EE or EEE) sizes like those offered by Thursday Boot Company’s leather sneakers. If you have a wider foot, you might have luck sizing up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?vTLvNdDGRuNA The sneakers felt snug at first, but the suede softened up very quickly. The heel cup is firm and well-structured, keeping my foot in place without rubbing or slipping. The only improvement I'd suggest to Axel Arigato is to gusset the tongue. With my weird feet and high instep, the tongue tends to move to one side throughout the day. It’s not a deal-breaker, but something to be aware of. I know some guys get around issues like this by cutting a hole in middle of the tongue and running their laces through it. Price & Value: Luxe Feel Without the Luxury Tax $305 At around $300 USD (though retailers like SSense occasionally run discounts on low-inventory items), the Clean 90 isn’t exactly budget-friendly. It has the advantage of being cheaper than the $400+ Common Projects, but there are some cheaper sneakers out there that offer a lot of similar benefits — I'll run through the main alternatives below so you can get a lay of the land. A Competitive Comparison Common Projects Achilles Low (often considered the gold standard in premium and minimalist leather sneakers), Koio Capri, Oliver Cabell Low 1, and Thursday Boot Company’s Premier Low Top are some of the top leather sneaker brands. So let's look at how Axel Arigato compares to these market leaders — feel free to click through to all the individual reviews linked here: BrandPriceLeather OutsoleFit & SizingKey HighlightsCountry of OriginAxel Arigato Clean 90 Suede ~$300LWG -certified Italian leatherRubber sole (20% recycled) limited half sizes; no wide sizes. Minimalist take on skate shoes PortugalCommon Projects Achilles Low ~$400Italian Nappa leatherMargom rubber No half or wide sizes. Status symbol; a recognizable cultural iconItalyKoio Capri ~$265LWG-certified Italian calfskinRubber sole (40% recycled)No half sizes, but available in wide sizes. 100% Italian made, emphasis on sustainabilityItalyOliver Cabell Low 1~$200Italian calfskin"C—Base" rubber/EVA hybrid soleNo half sizes, but 3 fits available Transparent pricing, good valueItalyThursday Boot Company Premier Low Top $129*Italian Nappa leatherRubber sole (30% recycled)Half sizes, and 3 widths available. Exceptional value, huge range of leathers, choice of eyeletsUnclear! Summary Best Value: Thursday Boot Co. Premier Low Top offers high-quality materials and construction at an unbeatable price, and a staggering variety of leather options and widths. Balanced Option: Koio Capri combines Italian craftsmanship with a more visible commitment to sustainability at a moderate price point. Modern Minimalist: Axel Arigato Clean 90 Suede offers a slightly more casual design with a brand focus on sustainability and (above all) variety. Final Thoughts: I Want to Say “Arigato” to Axel Arigato! For those seeking a premium, minimalist sneaker that balances style, quality, and a touch of sustainable consciousness, the Axel Arigato Clean 90 is an excellent contender, especially if you're looking for a shoe that's minimalist but has a little more volume than the ultra slim competitors. It delivers comfort, durability, and a versatile look that doesn’t date. In a world of loud shoes, your rotation needs Axel Arigato’s quiet luxury. Thank you for reading.