grant stone diesel boot

There's one brand on the market that has perfected the "smart casual" category for boots: Grant Stone. Founder Wyatt Gilmore had both a father and grandfather who worked for Alden, one of the United States' most celebrated footwear brands of all time. But he had an uphill battle to fight when he launched in 2017: his product was made in China. The craftsmanship is world-class, and their leathers are from the most esteemed tanneries on Earth, and the fact that Grant Stone has managed to overcome that stigma and become one of the most beloved brands in the space is a testament to just how damn good their boots are. They are hugely popular with boot guys because they have exacting quality control and a high-quality product at remarkably low prices. Or perhaps "relatively low prices" is a better way to put it because while Grant Stone's boots all cost at least $300, they're universally considered on par with American-made boots that cost twice that much. If you've heard of the brand but are unsure where to start, our Grant Stone boots review breaks down their best models to decide which one's right for you. Just note that sometimes, the leathers you see on the site are seasonal or limited edition and might not be available the next time you visit. How We Came Up With Our List I’ve reviewed hundreds of boots over the years, but to add even more expertise to this article, we recruited a Grant Stone collector for an interview on our YouTube channel. (Dale owns over two dozen of their boots and, naturally, has a boot-focused channel himself.) Between Dale and myself, we’ve reviewed, tested, and worn every model of Grant Stone’s boots. In addition to having traveled all over the world visiting factories and workshops, I’ve interviewed Grant Stone’s founder and profiled Dale himself to learn as much as I can about this fantastic company and what keeps bringing people back for more. I even pooled money with my sisters to buy a pair of their loafers for my dad as a present, and that’s the only footwear I’ve ever bought him — until I got him some Grant Stone Ottawa boots. Even among the hundreds of boots I’ve diligently reviewed, these are some of my all-time favorites. The video below is almost the same topic as this article, but it’s more of a retrospective: a longtime collector, Dale ran through his favorite Grant Stone boots of all time, and most of them are discontinued limited editions. It’s worth watching to get a feel for the kind of quality they’re known for, but for our article, we’re focusing on the best models and leathers that are just about always available. https://www.youtube.com/watch?veTfe6RAH51c Why Grant Stone They've become a brand that's highly prized by the most discerning of boot snobs, regularly selling out of limited releases and turning out distinct styles and models without sacrificing quality or consistency.They also get their customer: they're not trying to be work boots or dress boots, they're boots for smart casual or business casual wear and they're proud of it. (Some brands try to pretend they're bought for factory floors when they're only worn by white collar professionals.)Grant Stone's boots are unselfconscious and incredibly high quality for the price, plus they're one of the few places I can get a good kangaroo leather boot. That's why I regularly put them on my best boots lists and why I've been itching to post this roundup of their product line. Further Reading Best Boots for Men Want to find the best boot for your style and budget? Check out how → Construction & Components Resoleable, Goodyear welted boots Vegetable-tanned leather midsole and welt, steel shank, and cork filling Sourced from family owned businesses: welts form Massachusettes, lining from Milwaukee, laces from Kentucky, etc. Many soles to choose from based on your preference: Leather, low profile rubber, wedge, and Commando-style “They make very solid Goodyear welted boots,” Dale says. “It’s an old-timey way of making footwear that is more durable and resoleable than a lot of 'cemented' boots you find today. Plus, they add a lot of durable components, like thick vegetable-tanned leather midsoles and welts that not every Goodyear welted boot has.” If you're new to this world, sneakers and cheap shoes are typically cemented, meaning the upper is glued to the sole. Many higher quality shoes, usually on the dressier side, will be Blake stitched. The Goodyear welt is the go-to construction for durable, hardwearing footwear: it's very water resistant, won't delaminate like sneakers, and can easily be resoled when the time comes. Lots of brands make Goodyear welted boots, but not all do it at Grant Stone's level. The same family has run the factory for generations, and the craftspeople use durable, time-tested materials that make longer-lasting boots and more easily repairable. You may not notice the vegetable-tanned leather welt, but little details like this increase the lifespan and resole-ability of your boots. (Some cheaper Goodyear welted work boots use synthetic welts that are prone to cracking and hard to resole.) Randy Gilmore, who spent his career in the high end footwear industry, inspecting Grant Stone shoes leaving the warehouse. Wide Range of Sizes and Fits Their Leo last fits the four most common foot shapes They have a wide range of sizes and widths All boots are based on a foot-shaped piece of wood used to build boots and shoes called a “last.” I talk a lot about lasts, but the important takeaway is they might match your foot shape, or they may not. Sometimes you're just out of luck, no matter how much you like a brand. “The Leo last is the most used,” Dale says. “It fits four common foot shapes: if you have a high or medium arch, heavy splay, or flat-flexible foot, this last should work well for you.” Many of their models also offer D, E, or EEE widths. The E and EEE widths are proportionally longer than the D widths. For instance, a 10E will be slightly longer in the toe than a 10D, a feature consistent across all their lasts. The wide-footed are such a small segment of the population that many brands don't consider it profitable to cater to them, particularly given how expensive it is to develop new lasts. That Grant Stone has three widths on hand for not just their boots but also their loafers is very rare. My Grant Stone Kudu leather Diesel boots Leathers Tons of options and colors from world-renowned tanneries Regular offerings of limited edition and specialty leathers I keep buying their boots (and loafers) because of the quality of their construction, fantastic fit, great leathers, and their ability to experiment. I came close to doing a collaboration boot with Alden, the Massachusetts stalwart founded in the 19th century, but that is not a nimble, digitally savvy brand like GrantStone. They would only let me choose from a small group of cowhides from one tannery — and they could only be brown. Meanwhile, Grant Stone is great at ensuring they sell classic boot leathers (Chromexcel from Horween and suede from CF Stead, of course) and eye catching offerings like sky blue kudu suede and green kangaroo. They also offer limited releases in very rare leathers like Honey Glazed and Maduro Shell Cordovan, and you'll see Dale handle many of them in the video above. Limited editions sell out quickly because their fanbase is so devoted. Smart Casual Aesthetics Slimmer boots dress up and down quite easily Classically American aesthetic combining rugged and preppy A major selling point for me is that they combine hardwearing construction and leathers with a slightly more elegant profile. They are versatile — you don't look like you're stepping out of a 19th-century coal mine or into a posh Mediterranean cafe. Their boots aren't bulbous or overbuilt, and they're not super dressy and slender. When a model is on the dressier side, like the Edward, you'll find most of the leathers offered are tough boot leathers like waxed suede. It's a lovely balance that has caused many to name Grant Stone as the king of the "go anywhere boot." Grant Stone's kangaroo leather is vegetable tanned in Italy Price Some of the best value boots out there “Because they make their boots in China using globally sourced materials, they’re cheaper than similar boots from companies like Viberg that sell boots for over $800,” Dale explains. “All these reasons combine to make Grant Stone one of the most popular boot companies. Their limited edition boots sell out in pre-order and have a sizable following.” We recognize it's a hard sell for newcomers to the world of high end footwear, especially since Grant Stone's footwear is pricier than Red Wing Heritage, perhaps the best known Goodyear welted boots that are also made in America. The fact is that in addition to offering a completely different aesthetic, Grant Stone has more premium components: leather insole and midsole (most Red Wings have just one of those), more exacting construction, and leathers that are imported from all over the world — and then imported again to the Michigan distribution center. That makes shipping and returns a breeze, but don't forget how many times this poor company is getting taxed with all this importing! Grant Stone Boots Review: The 5 Best Boots Now we've got the why out of the way, and you can hopefully understand why this brand is unique in the marketplace. Let's look at the best Grant Stone boots. https://youtu.be/ylK9geg8vjc 1) Best Overall: Diesel Boot (~$360 - $395) The go-to, the standard, the classic smart casual boot and my first from Grant Stone. Dale has two versions of it himself. The Diesel boot I wear the most is the grey kudu. "It comes in either a micro stud lug sole or a wedge sole," notes Dale, "The wedge sole is more casual, and the micro stud sole is slightly dressier. Not suit-and-tie dressy but nice jeans and a polo dressy." Highlights Part of what makes this boot so popular is the ability to run the line between a fancier and a more rugged boot. The Diesel has a plain toe that helps keep it a bit more slender than a cap toe, and it’s often the first boot that a guy can see himself wearing to the office with a sports coat. You can get a wide variety of leathers for this boot: plenty of Chromexcel from Horween Tannery and suede from CF Stead, which are the go-to leathers for boots. To be honest, the Diesel in Chromexcel or Saddle Tan should probably be your first Grant Stone boot if you haven’t worn those leathers before. But more on the Diesel than anywhere else, Grant Stone is willing to be playful: ostrich, kangaroo, and kudu abound, and colors from burgundy to green can be found on this model. Few brands combine smart lasts with boundary-pushing leathers like the Diesel does. The famous Saddle Tan colorway, a vegetable tanned leather from Italy's Badlassi Carlo. Who Should Wear the Diesel Boot? Guys who want a versatile boot that's comfortable in jeans or in the office. Anyone who wants a classic lace-up boot, this is the platonic ideal of one, and it's the least controversial choice. Who Shouldn't Wear the Diesel Boot? Anyone who likes dressier boots these might be too casual for some. https://youtu.be/eZb1sInLjb4 2) Best Moc Toe: Brass Boot (~$360 - $395) Moc toes got their start in the broader American culture as work boots in the 1950s, popularized by the seminal Red Wing 875. Moc toe boots came to be typified not just by the moccasin stitching on the toes but also their hardwearing construction and roomy builds, allowing for more dynamic movement. The Brass Boot has its feet in that tradition, but it doesn't pretend to be the ideal boot for bricklaying or electrician work. It keeps the bulky build — this is their roomiest boot by a mile — but keeps the moc stitch subtle and the leathers extraordinary. Nobody makes "work boots" with this kind of leather. Grant Stone's founder himself described this as both "a work boot and a fashion boot."The Brass Boot is water resistant, resoleable, tough, and comfortable. This is the boot for guys who want something firmly casual without looking like lumberjack cosplay. Highlights The Brass Boot's work-boot-like aesthetic comes from its raised walls and roomy toe box, making it more suitable for a lot of movement and for wearing thicker socks. Unlike most heritage workboots, Grant Stone uses more luxurious leather. They take expectations about what a style of boot should be and give them a slight twist: you expect a work boot to have rugged leather like something oil-tanned and dull, but here you can use vibrant gold, green kangaroo, antelope suede, and more. Of course, there are also trusty Chromexcels and waxed suedes for guys who are happy with the innovative design and want the leather to be a little less eye-catching. Plus, there are two sole options: the classic white rubber "wedge" sole or a grippy Commando-like sole. There's something for any aesthetic here. Who Should Wear Grant Stone Brass Boot: Individuals looking for a boot that makes casual outfits look more put together. People who want plenty of room to move in their boots. Guys who don't dress up a lot, but want something higher quality than you typically see in a moc toe. Who Shouldn't Wear Grant Stone Brass Boots: Professionals working on job sites that require specialized safety standards. The Brass Boot, while durable and comfortable, doesn't meet ASTM criteria like steel toes or electric shock resistance. Those who prefer formal footwear. The Brass Boot is more challenging to dress up compared to other Grant Stone boots, making it less suitable for formal occasions. 3) The Business Casual King: Ottawa Boot (~$340 - $395) The Ottawa boot is immediately different than other boots on this list. At first glance you might think it's an unusually low profile moc toe, but you're seeing the decorative Norwegian split toe design. There's nothing functional about it, but it's a very classic pattern that lets it look well put together and casual at the same time. Highlights The split toe is a classic look made popular by Alden and it's a considerably slimmer, lower profile, and dressier than their Brass boot It’s not a dress boot, but it's closer to high-end leather footwear than a work boot you'd beat up on a construction site. If you pick a less exotic leather like a smooth Chromexcel, there's no reason you can't wear this versatile boot with a smart casual or business casual outfit, even if you're sporting a tie. Dale's favorite makeup is the same one I bought my dad: Bourbon suede."That's a perfect makeup. That suede against that sole with the handstitched moc toe? It's just a beautiful pair of boots." You feel like a million bucks when you’ve got a smart shirt and a pair of split toes. It won’t work with a suit, but almost any outfit with a button-up shirt looks terrific. I'd never considered split toes until I saw Grant Stone selling them in a lovely, undyed kangaroo leather, something I'd wanted to try out for years. They fast became one of my most worn boots from the brand. https://youtu.be/CfwKVb_22Lo Who Should Wear the Ottawa Boot? Guys with high or medium arch, heavy splay, or flat-flexible feet are built on their Leo last. Folks who want a relatively easy boot to dress up in business casual attire. Who Shouldn't Wear the Ottawa Boot? Guys with narrow or flat feet. This may not be the best last in your case. People who want an unambiguously casual boot like a classic moc toe or cap toe work boot. https://youtu.be/9v9Gzzc0Zis 4) Best Plain Toe: The Edward Boot (~$340-380) The Edward model has a dressier look but doesn't come in a ton of dressy leathers like, say, box calf. Instead, you'll find more rugged leathers like Crimson Chromexcel and waxed suede. Highlights At first glance, you might mistake this for the Diesel, but the Edward is a bit more elegant: it doesn't have an external heel counter, it has an extra pair of eyelets, and the eyelets are smaller. Overall, this makes for a clean look with minimal stitching and, dare I say it, the most dressy Grant Stone boot so far. And yet, it's produced with classically tough boot leathers, making for a "go anywhere" boot that's deceptively boundary-pushing. Who Should Wear the Edward Boot? Guys who want a dressier boot but don't want something super slim with an almond toe Anyone who likes the unique appeal of dressy boots with rugged leathers Who Shouldn't Wear the Edward Boot? Anyone looking for an actual dress boot; Grant Stone's cap toe is the closest you'll get right now. https://youtu.be/dfCmAsCiRbA 5) Best Chelsea: The Chelsea (~$360 - $395) This isn't your super rugged wear-to-work Chelsea or your super dressy whole-cut leather Chelsea. This boot has a shorter shaft and a slightly square-toe design that strays from the sleekness typically associated with Chelsea boots. Highlights The unusually stout and roomy look comes from their UK last, which offers a fuller fit than you tend to see in Chelsea. Because of their laceless design, Chelseas usually had to fit very close to the feet and wound up being characteristically slim as a result. Grant Stone's is a rare Chelsea that's quite easy to wear casually, and they aren't delicate boots. They feel incredibly sturdy underfoot and have the same ultra-durable Goodyear welt construction as their other models. Further Reading Best Chelsea Boots For Men Not sure if you want a super refined wholecut leather Chelsea or something more rugged? Check out these→ These boots are robust, featuring a thick midsole and a heavy, kip leather lining. Like a lot of Grant Stone's boots, the construction is reminiscent of Alden quality, with a thick vegetable-tanned leather midsole and welt. They strike an impressive balance between being heavy-duty and refined. Who Should Buy Grant Stone's Chelsea Guys seeking more casual, less sleek Chelsea boots People needing good arch support Those looking for EE widths Who Shouldn't Buy Grant Stone's Chelsea Those who prefer distinctly dressy and slim Chelsea boots People who dislike a shorter, smart-casual Chelsea boot style Wrapping It Up: The Ultimate Grant Stone Boots Review Brands always do better when they go deep on one niche instead of trying to cater to everyone, and no one has done a better job of dominating and perfecting the "smart casual" category than Grant Stone. We could also spend all day talking about their loafers and sneakers, but that's an article for another time. Grant Stone's boots are the products that built their reputation. Whether you're new to higher-end boots or you're a longtime fan of luxury footwear from the likes of Edward Green and Alden, there's a boot at Grant Stone that you didn't know you were craving. Hope this helps you guys find your next pair of boots!