Golden Fox

I know, boots evoke durability and denim, not sand and shorts. But that's because most guys don't know there are plenty of boots that are designed to be comfortable in the heat and to outlast any sandal or sneaker. You can actually have both, if you know where to look. Plus, boots last way longer than sneakers (sustainability!), especially when they can be resoled like most of the ones on this list. It's really hard to find a boot that's light and flexible and resoleable, but hey, I'm here to help. I've spent the better part of a decade covering the boot industry, and here's the criteria I used to decide on this list. And after that I've got the actual list. Actually, I'll just tell you the boots first: Peter and I in our favorite summer boots: Red Wing (left) and Crown Northampton (right) My Top Picks for Summer Boots Best Overall: Red Wing Weekender Chukka Best Value: Golden Fox Boondocker Best Value Desert Boot: Clarks Desert Boot Toughest: Blkbrd Shoemaker Rudiger Best Luxury: Crown Northampton Woodford Desert Boot Best Chelsea: Astorflex Bitflex Best for the Office: Grant Stone Unlined Chukka What Kind of Boot Is Best for Summer? Here's How I Decided I basically emphasized two qualities above all else: comfort (in the heat) and durability (perhaps the defining quality of a boot). Sure, not every boot on the list below ticks every single box I came up with. But it would be unreasonable and pretentious if I refused to tell you about some of these great boots just because, say, the average cobbler might not be able to resole it. I know most guys care way more about comfort than resole-ability anyway! I just want you to know the different ways a boot can be great for summer so that you can decide which of them matter to you most. I first learned how much glue goes into leather lining when I made my own pair in Guatemala. Breathable Uppers The "upper" is everything that goes over your foot, and there are two things I looked for. I wanted unlined boots. Good brands tend line the inside of the boot with another layer of leather but it reduces breathability, especially because they add a ton of glue between the two layers. I also emphasized suede. It's usually thinner and more porous than smooth leathers and is a great choice in the heat. Just don't get waxed suede, which is a popular choice for hardwearing boots that need to repel the elements. The more barriers a boot has to keep water out, the less air gets in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?vg0ZEomtYUUY Breathable Soles Despite centuries of use as the go-to sole for quality footwear, leather soles have been unfairly maligned as slippery and delicate. They actually have a ton of benefits, and breathability is the most relevant for this list. It's why they're on cowboy boots and all good summer loafers. But don't worry, I'm not just recommending leather soled boots. Crepe rubber is another good option that's more breathable than the more popular vulcanized rubber soles out there. See my interview with Old Speed Mfg above for a more detailed breakdown. Crepe and leather soles aren't quite as longlasting as hard rubber, but do you want your boots to be optimized for summer or not? Construction That's Lightweight, Flexible, and Resoleable It's hard to pull off that balance, but durability is such a key component of a good boot that I knew there had to be brands out there making them with these qualities in mind. Most resoleable boots are made with the complex and multilayered Goodyear welt, but you can use the alternative stitchdown construction to make a boot that's more flexible and lightweight. (The less common Blake stitch would also work, but I couldn't find any Blake stitched boots that made sense on this list.) 1. Best Overall: Red Wing Heritage Weekender Chukka ($270) Unlined roughout Flexible stitchdown construction Made in USA This is the boot that changed my mind about chukkas, a category I used to shy away from. Desert boots are by far the most popular summer boot: they're short, made with suede, and have soft crepe soles. (Don't worry, there are plenty of other kinds of boots on this list too.) Red Wing Heritage's Weekender Chukka is a desert boot, sure, but not quite: rather than suede, it's made with roughout, which looks similar but is typically thicker and more common work boots. It's not quite as breathable as suede (which differs by being fuzzy on both sides) but the right roughout beats your average boot leather. The sole isn't crepe, either, it's a harder wearing polyurethane — but again, it looks the part while upping the durability. It's also important to note that Red Wing Heritage is much better known for their iconic, heavy, Goodyear welted work boots. As one of the most widespread brands in this niche, the biggest complaint they receive is about tough break ins and inflexible soles, and it's laudable that they managed to devise a boot that's so lightweight while keeping it consistent with the brand. But what really made me pull the trigger is how cool the leather is. I hadn't seen a white roughout before, and it's perfect for a desert boot like this. Check out Huckberry's listing for an exclusive sky blue. 2. Best Value Lace-Up: Golden Fox Boondocker ($140) Upper material: Unlined suede upper Construction: Goodyear welted for longevity Sole: Crepe sole Style: Classic lace-up service boot look Value: Very inexpensive If you’d rather spend less money or if you just aren’t a fan of desert boots, Golden Fox’s Boondocker is a famous anomaly in the boot industry: inexpensive, comfortable, and Goodyear welted for durability. We’ve reviewed their model made of smooth brown leather, but if you opt for this unlined suede version, you’ve got a terrific and affordable summer boot that stands out from the sea of chukkas. https://www.youtube.com/watch?vxCSF0M4O0Kc Our pal Teik at Bootlosophy made a much needed review. I should note that their use of a synthetic welt over leather means this boot is unlikely to endure more than one resole operation (if that). But at this price point, I’m literally not complaining — Golden Fox’s build is still way more durable than a sneaker while being about as comfortable as one. (Just note the pigskin collar isn't kosher or halal, if that's a concern.) It’s also worth noting that this is inspired by one of the most influential and beloved boots in history: the boondocker is the name of the boot worn by US infantrymen during World War 2. The uppers of the original boot were comprised of fuzzy roughout that looks a lot the Golden Fox Boondocker, but I’d argue that Golden Fox's value-focused construction makes for an even better boot for summer. 3. Best Value: Clarks Desert Boot ($150) Brand: The world's most famous desert boot Value: Well priced Upper material: Thin but breathable suede Construction: Probably not resoleable, but not priced like it either Sole: Soft crepe rubber I couldn't make a list of summer boots without including the most longstanding entry in the category, which is also the one that invented the desert boot: Clarks. What's interesting about Clarks Desert Boot is that boot snobs might want to denigrate it for being so unstructured, hard to resole, and soft to the point of unstable. But the fact is: that's what makes it the kind of comfy summer boot that most guys want. Cobblers tell me that about half the time they try to resole one of these boots, the suede just sort of falls apart in their hands. But hey, that means you're getting the kind of really thin suede that's great for breathability, plus this boot comes in a few smooth leather options. Even if it's not crazy durable, Clarks Desert Boot is still stitchdown construction, which means it's more durable than any sneaker. Further Reading Clarks Alternatives: The Best Desert Boots at Every Price Point If you're sold on the desert boot style, there are more variations on the style than you might think.Learn more → 4. Toughest Summer Boot: Blkbrd Rudiger ($345) Upper material: Most hardwearing and handmade boot on this list, the unlined kudu roughout balances breathability and durability Construction: Handsewn stitchdown construction is bonkers at this price Sole: Leather insole with cork filling gets more comfortable with wear Blkbrd Shoemaker is an Indian brand that's been taking the boot world by storm by producing footwear that's handmade to a degree that's unheard of at this pricepoint. I'd derail this article if I got too far into the differences between Goodyear welting and hand welting, which Blkbrd is known for. Suffice it to say, the boots are made the way they were hundreds of years ago, meaning there's more labor and more durability than you'll find with bigger brands. I almost couldn't believe it when I came across the Rudiger. As you might have noticed, most summer boots are desert boots — the notion of a regular six-inch lace up boot that's optimized for summer is unheard of. Yet the Rudiger is very tough and very summer friendly: a soft rubber sole, lightweight stitchdown construction, and it's unlined. Like Red Wing's Weekender, they used roughout instead of suede, making it just the tiniest bit less breathable. But the upper (and the boot itself) is still far more breathable and flexible than any boot I've seen at this level of quality. Further Reading Why Fatigues Are the Best Summer Trousers Available in more colors and fabrics than you thought, fatigues are easily our favorite way to wear boots in summer. Learn more → 5. Best Luxury: Crown Northampton Woodford Desert Boot (~$415) Upper materials: Wide variety of high end leathers, including many unlined suedes Construction: Classic summer boot, upgraded — it's actually resoleable, which is rare for a desert boot Sole: Four options for your sole Desert boots are made first and foremost to be light and soft, so they often aren't that durable or made with high quality leathers. But Crown Northampton made their name on $800 sneakers and knew they could take the desert boot to new heights. The Woodford has a classic crepe sole and flexible build, but it's made with the kind of materials and stitchdown construction that also makes it resoleable. You might baulk at the pricetag, but if you're looking for a desert boot that's as longlasting as this one, your other options are brands like Crockett & Jones or John Lofgren, which cost hundreds of dollars more. Perhaps more impressive is the wide range of suedes you can choose from, which includes robust kudu suede and Janus calf suede, articles from the famous CF Stead tannery that many consider the best on Earth. And if you want an even tougher desert boot, you can get the Woodford in harder wearing work boot leathers like Chromexcel and you'll still have something unlined, soft, and relatively summer friendly. I wore these boots in winter, but they're very suitable for summer. 6. Best Chelsea: Astorflex Bitflex ($275) Upper material: Multiple options for suede or smooth leathers Construction: Resoleable ideal stitch construction that's lightweight and flexible Sole: Choice of crepe or leather, the two best summer soles Style: Round toe, casual Cheslea boot Origin: A family owned brand making boots in Italy since the 19th century It's hard to find a summer Chelsea boot, particularly since this laceless style is seldom made without lining — it needs the structure more than most other styles. And indeed, Astorflex's Bitflex is lined with undyed leather. (They say undyed leather breathes better than pigmented or finished leather. Maybe?) Still, you get a suede upper, a flexible construction that's considered a kind of stitchdown, and Astorflex recently added the option of choosing crepe or leather soles — the two best options for summer! Astorflex is also a family owned brand that's been making boots in northern Italy for generations, giving them a homemade vibe that suits the kind of breezy-yet-cozy boots you'll wear for years. Further Reading The 10 Best Chelsea Boots I've Worn From best value to the high end ones that are almost impossible to find. Learn more → 7. Best for the Office: Grant Stone Unlined Chukka ($412) Upper material: Unlined suede offers terrific breathability Sole: Leather outsole and insole helps manage airflow and moisture Construction: Goodyear welted for infinite resoles Every enthusiast of high quality boots knows about Grant Stone. They nail “smart casual” better than anyone and have earned a stellar reputation for their quality and their value. They always use the most sought after materials from the world’s most reputable tanneries, but they’re cheaper than other brands that make footwear to this standard. They’ve made more robust chukkas in the past, but I was delighted to see them put out a pair that’s optimized for hot weather: no one else is doing unlined suede with leather soles at this pricepoint, plus the Goodyear welt construction means they’re very easy to resole. Honorable mention: Red Wing's Moc Oxford, the shoe that's built like a boot! Honorable Mention: Red Wing Moc Oxford, a.k.a. The Boot-Shoe ($310) A shoe that's made like a work boot This list has basically been about finding boots that are closer to regular shoes, ie. boots that are more about light and comfy than tough and impermeable. But what if... what you really wanted... was a boot you can wear with shorts? I present to you the boot-shoe: a shoe made like a boot. Red Wing Heritage's Moc Oxford is made exactly as tough, heavy, and Goodyear welted as their world famous moc toe boot, but it's a shoe! You can wear it with shorts! Or you can wear it with pants, like I am here on this recent trip to Malaysia. Just remember that they are indeed made like Red Wing's famously stiff boots. That means they aren't always comfy with thin socks, and you will have to endure a break in. Bring a spare pair of sneakers with you the first few times you wear them in case you have to take them off. "Nick, I know you like your huaraches, but you need to get into desert boots." Wrapping Up We did it! I made a list of summer boots that aren't just a bunch of different desert boots, and we even got in a few models that cost under $200. I couldn't believe there were not one, but two suitable six-inch lace up boots on the market, but between those, the Chelseas, and the bonus boot-shoe, there's something for everyone here.