• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
Stridewise

Stridewise

It's a Boot Time

  • Best Boots
  • Boot Reviews
    • Popular Reviews
      • Thursday Captain Boot
      • Red Wing Iron Ranger
      • Wolverine 1000 Mile
      • Viberg Service Boot
      • Grant Stone Diesel Boot
    • Cowboy Boots
    • Work Boots
    • All Reviews
    • Comparisons
      • Red Wing Iron Ranger Vs. Wolverine 1000 Mile
      • Timberlands Vs Doc Martens
      • Thursday’s Captain vs President Boots
      • All Comparisons
  • Boot Guides
  • Gear
    • Bags
      • Backpacks
      • Leather Bags
    • Denim
    • Jackets & Outerwear
      • Leather Jackets
      • Waxed Canvas Jackets
  • About
    • About Nick
    • Review Process
    • Our Experts
    • Revenue
    • Contact
    • Subscribe
Home › Culture

Top Grain’s Better Than Full Grain, and More Leather Myth Busting

Nick EnglishEditor-in-Chief
Updated Aug 14, 2024

This post may contain affiliate links that at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission from.

Expert Verified By: Michael Batson, Vice President, North Star Leather Company

Click around the internet and most articles on leather types split them into three categories: full grain, top grain, and genuine leather. Full grain is made from the top layer of the animal’s hide, top grain has the top layer sanded away, and genuine leather is reviled the most, since it has no grain and is heavily processed. Right?

That’s something I thought for a long time. But after doing some digging and chatting with John Culliton, a VP at the world famous Horween Leather Company and manager of its retail arm The Tannery Row, I realized that people are talking about leather all wrong.

“Our industry is based on marketing, and while it’s a big industry in aggregate, tanneries tend to be smaller companies,” says Culliton. “We don’t have a GM or a Philip Morris to set industry standards, so many tanneries and the companies to which they sell leather come out with marketing terms that don’t necessarily correlate to what the product actually is.”

It’s time to go to school. Here’s the right way to talk about leather.

top grain leather splitting process

The splitting operation: The top piece is top grain, which can be either full grain or corrected. The bottom piece being split is called a drop split and is used to make split leathers. Photo: Horween Leather Company

Top Grain Leather Is Actually the Good Stuff

Often times on the internet, writers — including by myself, I’m very guilty of this — contrast top grain with full grain. But what is normally considered full grain is, in fact, a kind of top grain.

“When we process the hide itself, we split the top part of the skin from the underside, and that’s the top grain,” says Culliton. “’Top grain’ used to mean a lot, but it’s been watered down. The true definition means you’ve kept the top part of the skin.”

Full grain is a kind of top grain that doesn’t have anything done to the grain, the outer layer of the skin, so it’s kept totally intact. If you look very closely at the leather, you can actually see the hair follicles — it hasn’t been mechanically altered in the production.

“Corrected grain is when the tannery will take some sandpaper and level the grain out for cosmetic purposes,” explains Culliton. “The whole world thinks Chromexcel is full grain because when you look closely at it, you can see the grain. But we correct it, we just correct it so little that we leave part of the grain on the leather.”

Viberg service boot toe

Pretty smooth Chromexcel on the Viberg service boot.

One big reason for correcting grain is that makes it a lot easier to color it because the process allows dyes to further penetrate into the leather. It’s kind of like wood in that regard: sanding the floor a little helps it accept the stain.

Importantly, there are different degrees to which you can correct leather. Chromexcel gets very little, while something like nubuck is very heavily corrected. The term “enhanced grain” is sometimes used to refer to corrected grain when the correction is very mild.

split leather at horween

These are the bottom side of the hide that are dropped from the top grain to create a split leather, no grain on this product. Photo: Horween Leather Company

So What’s Split Grain Leather?

When tanneries get their hides, they keep the top grain and split it off from the rest of the skin. The split is the part that falls off from the underside, and that’s usually where suede comes from. (Sometimes, a vinyl layer is applied to the surface and embossed so it looks like full grain, but don’t be fooled.)

Note that there’s a really wide range of quality within the category of split grain — you can get thirty-dollar suede shoes from Wal-Mart or you can get the beautiful, rugged suede from C.F. Stead.

But suede isn’t always split.

“Some brands will buy what’s called a reverse leather, where they buy a top grain leather and use the flesh side as the suede and the grain side as the inside of the shoe,” says Culliton. Red Wing’s roughout leather is an example.

[Related: The 5 Best Leather Tanneries on Earth]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BCLdnehHLk6/?taken-by=horweenleather

School’s Out

So the next time you think top grain is the same thing as corrected grain or someone says all suede is split grain, remember the info in this piece. And, uh, I’ll try to do the same and keep my reviews as accurate as possible.

[Related: My list of The Best Boots]

Featured image via @horweenleather on Instagram.

Nick English

Editor-in-Chief

Nick English, the founder and editor of Stridewise, combines a rich background in journalism with well-recognized expertise in welted footwear and casual menswear.

Facebook Twitter Instagram YouTube LinkedIn More articles by Nick English

You Might Also Like

ashland leather co
My Fat Herbie: An Exploration of Ashland Leather
best leather tanneries
The Best Leather Tanneries on Earth
horween leather company best tannery
Why Horween Leather Company is America’s Best Tannery
best american boot brands
10 Best American Made Boots to Buy in 2025 (Made in USA!)
Stridewise team

About Stridewise

by Nick English

Founded in 2018 to help men buy the best boots, we’ve since expanded our team and purview to review and celebrate casual footwear and menswear that’s as close to “buy it for life” quality as possible. We take great pride in being a trusted source for information while maintaining complete editorial independence. At no extra cost to you, we might earn a commission from a brand when you purchase through our links, which helps us keep our mission alive. Learn More

11 Ways to Save Money on Boots

Subscribe for an exclusive article to help you find the best deals on quality footwear.

Primary Sidebar

Want to dress better?

See which boots suit your preferences and style.

My Top Picks

Most Popular

Best made in usa boots

The 10 Best American-Made Boots

Best chelsea boots for men 1024x576 1

The 10 Best Chelsea Boots

Best moc toe boots red wing

The 6 Best Moc Toe Boots

Stridewise team

About Stridewise

by Nick English

Founded in 2018 to help men buy the best boots, we’ve since expanded our team and purview to review and celebrate casual footwear and menswear that’s as close to “buy it for life” quality as possible. We take great pride in being a trusted source for information while maintaining complete editorial independence. At no extra cost to you, we might earn a commission from a brand when you purchase through our links, which helps us keep our mission alive. Learn More

11 Ways to Save Money on Boots

Subscribe for an exclusive article to help you find the best deals on quality footwear.

Most Recent

Satchel and page leather jacket review

Satchel and Page Leather Jacket Review: 3 Years In a Calfskin Bomber

Lightweight summer jackets men

The 5 Best Lightweight Jackets for Men, From Casual to Dressy

Cravar interview featured image

Cravar: The Indonesian Brand Perfecting The Non-Girly Leather Bag

How to wear fatigues

How to Wear Fatigues: The Most Underrated Casual Pants

Red wings in movies

9 Movies That Starred Red Wing Boots

Trending Now

  • a man pondering the best boots for men16 Best Boots For Men to Buy Tested By Experts (Spring 2025)
  • doc martens alternatives6 Doc Marten Alternatives That Don’t Suck
  • Best leather briefcases for men, Satchel & Page Counselor on the right, and Saddleback Pilot on the left11 Best Leather Briefcases for Men in 2025: High-End, Budget, Vintage, and More
  • Casual summer loafers menMy 5 Favorite Summer Loafers You Can Totally Wear With Shorts
Stridewise

Casual Durable™.

Yup, we even trademarked it. Just because you’re dressed down, doesn’t mean you have to dress bad. 

This site started to help guys find the best boots for their dollar and has since expanded to cover the highest quality casual menswear, from leather jackets to selvedge jeans to canvas bags — the kind of simple, fashionproof classics that help you get dressed without overthinking your “style.” Read more

  • About
  • Careers
  • Contact
  • Our Experts

11 Ways to Save Money on Boots

Subscribe for an exclusive article to help you find the best deals on quality footwear.

Articles by Category

  • Accessories
  • Backpacks
  • Bags
  • Boot & Leather Care
  • Boot Guides
  • Boot Reviews
  • Boots
  • Briefcases
  • Clothing
  • Comparison
  • Cowboy Boots
  • Culture
  • Denim
  • Denim Jackets
  • Denim Review
  • Fabric
  • Footwear
  • Hats
  • Jackets & Outerwear
  • Leather Bags
  • Leather Conditioners
  • Leather Jackets
  • Loafers
  • Pens
  • Shirts
  • Sneakers
  • Waxed Canvas Jackets
  • Women's Boots
  • Work Boots
  • Facebook
  • TikTok
  • Instagram
  • YouTube
  • Pinterest
  • LinkedIn
  • X

Copyright © 2025 · Stridewise · All Rights Reserved · Terms · Privacy · Affiliate Disclosure · Accessibility