Review: Why Iron Heart’s Deck Jacket Is Better Than the Original

The N-1, better known today as the “deck jacket” has been an icon of winter outerwear since soldiers wore them home after World War 2.

A lot of guys who like the style gravitate toward stich-for-stitch reproductions, but the alpaca/wool lining is really itchy and there are no secure pockets.

As someone who has owned deck jackets from a range of brands, I’m calling it: Iron Heart makes the best deck jacket. I’ve owned two versions that you’ll see in this review.

I’ll start with the pros and cons, move on to how to size it, and give you feedback on how mine has worn over several years.

Iron Heart Deck Jacket Pros & Cons

I’ll keep this straightforward: pros and cons first, then we’ll move on to more details and comparison.

What I liked:

• Wool lining isn’t itchy (unlike most deck jackets)
• Extra wind resistant due to hidden interlining
• Decent range of colors to choose from each season
• Handwarmer pockets are wool-lined and secure closed
• Secure, internal chest pocket, which most deck jackets lack
• Strong military heritage without feeling like a costume reproduction.
• Waist cinches to adjust fit
• Oiled versions available for better water resistance.

Downsides, not dealbreakers

• The sleeves are lined with synthetic satin, not wool
• Cotton shell isn’t fully waterproof (but they sell an oiled version for more water resistance)
• Takes a lot of wear to conform to the body and not look “puffy”
• Iron Heart aren’t great at keeping this product in stock
• Button closure can be frustrating when it’s cold or you’re wearing gloves

How to Size Iron Heart’s N-1 Deck Jacket

• Size up
• It’ll conform to the body with wear
• So don’t worry if it seems a bit too big at first

Everyone stresses over this but as someone who wears a Large in most jackets and has owned both a Large and an Extra Large Iron Heart deck jacket: size up.

Here’s what the Large looked like on me.

Like, it’s fine, but it’s a pretty form fitting jacket that doesn’t really bring to mind the mid-20th century deck jackets that made dudes look burly and ready for work.

To be fair, Iron Heart’s N-1 doesn’t fit that way even when you get the right size, but as you can see in this XL below, it looks a lot more natural when you pick a size up from your usual size.

A lot of people will tell you to size up because Iron Heart’s sizing is closer to Japanese sizing than American, which I guess is true. But there’s another reason: as a casual jacket that’s heirloom quality and made with natural materials, the sleeves will shorten, the wool will flatten, and the jacket will mold around your body’s shape as you wear it in.

When you get your new Iron Heart jacket, it might seem a bit puffy and the sleeves might feel a bit long. But by the time you wear it next winter, it’ll fit just right.

How Iron Heart’s Deck Jacket Sizing Changes With Wear

For more evidence, Iron Heart’s website says the XL has these measurements:

• Chest: 24.6
• Shoulders: 18.9
• Sleeves: 27.2

Here’s how my XL measured after a year:

• Chest: 22.3
• Shoulders: 18.25
• Sleeves: 26.5

I’d never normally buy a jacket with a 24.6″ chest; I usually look for around 22.5″. And yet, look where it ended up!

How Warm Is Iron Heart’s Deck Jacket?

Warm enough to wear with a t-shirt underneath on New York’s coldest winter days.

I’m serious! In the 1940s, the U.S. was running low on wool, so they mixed alpaca in with the deck jacket’s lining. There’s some evidence that alpaca has more space in their hollow fibers, allowing it to retain more heat and be warmer than regular wool.

Iron Heart’s N-1 has an 80/20 mixture of wool and alpaca, plus a dense outer shell of 100% cotton jungle cloth, and a hidden feature: windbreaking interlining under the jungle cloth.

Now, it’s true that the sleeves aren’t lined with wool like the original was, and that’s something I would have preferred (especially since Iron Heart’s lining isn’t remotely itchy).

But the truth is that I’ve never been cold in this jacket. I think if you have a wool sweater to wear beneath it, it’d serve you very well in most of Canada — just remember that the cotton isn’t technically waterproof, so you might not want to wear it in a blizzard.

Is Iron Heart’s Deck Jacket Worth It?

• $790

I’ve owned a lot of jackets, including plenty that I think weren’t quite worth what I paid. I don’t think that about Iron Heart: this is a jacket that will take you through any winter for the rest of your life and it costs less than $800.

It’s a very good deal, and I say that as someone who would not want to pay full price for Iron Heart’s much more famous jeans.

How Iron Heart Compares to Competitors

I’ve owned a lot of deck jackets and spent a lot of time researching the rest. I compare theirs with Freenote Cloth’s and Buzz Rickson’s in the video above, but here’s a quick rundown:

• Freenote Cloth’s Mariner: Wool lined sleeves, a little itchier, $100 more expensive.
• Buzz Ricksons’ N-1: Lined sleeves, much itchier, no internal pocket, handwarmers aren’t lined nor do they secure closed (you just can’t carry your wallet), costs nearly a thousand bucks.
• Pike Brothers: I haven’t worn it and I’d guess the wool is itchy, but if you don’t care that it’s made in Turkey, that there’s no alpaca, and that the handwarmers aren’t as warm or secure as Iron Heart’s, the $350 price is solid.
• Dehen 1920: The use of extra soft mouton wool makes them cozier, but they’re made from waxed canvas instead of jungle cloth and cost over $1,000.

Other people make deck jackets but if they’re cheaper, they’re always made with polyester mixed into the lining, which won’t be as warm. If you don’t care, you can check out the polyester-filled Triple Aught Design or Bronson Mfg.

The Takeaway

I would have preferred it if Iron Heart had lined the sleeves with wool like the original N-1 did, but besides that, there’s nothing I’d change about this jacket. It’s warm enough for deep winter, comfy with just a t-shirt, and it looks distinctive without standing out — a balance that most guys want from their favorite jacket.

It would be nice if this jacket fit as well on day one as it does on day one thousand, but that’s just not how it works when you’re talking about a jacket made with such robust, all-natural materials.

But the good news is that unlike denim and boots, this jacket doesn’t need breaking in: it’s comfortable from the get go. You can’t dress up a deck jacket but for casual winter wear, there’s nothing better than Iron Heart’s.