Cordobes Boots Review: The Best Value Stitchdown Service Boot?

Until a few months ago, I hadn’t heard of Cordobes. They’re less than a year old and weren’t on my radar yet, but this up-and-coming brand out of Mexico makes extremely high-quality, handmade footwear at a fantastic price.

Cordobes sells customizable footwear from slippers to engineer boots which range in price from $189 to $399. For those newer to this space, that’s shockingly inexpensive.

The low cost is partly explained by the fact that they’re made to order (MTO) — this saves on storage, labor, and other costs that contribute to the final price — but with a typical lead time of just one month, Cordobes also offers a much faster experience than one normally has to put up with to get an inexpensive MTO boot.

Having reviewed mainly work boots before, I was excited to share my thoughts on casual lifestyle boots like the Service Boots they sent over. After weeks of wear, let’s see what I found!

Pros & Cons: Cordobes Boots

Pros

• Oil-tanned leather is very hardwearing
• Excellent value
• Beefy construction, including a thick insole, two midsoles, and hand sewn, double row, stitchdown construction
• Short wait time for a made to order boot
• Customizable
• Options of a chunky work boot last or slimmer almond toe last

Cons

• It can be heavy (mine wound nearly 5 pounds)
• The break in isn’t fun.
• 1-month wait time is fast for made to order, but slower than off-the-rack
• Limited sizes (7 to 12) compared to most MTO operations
• Whether it’s a “service boot” depends which last you pick; my C-100 is closer to a chunky work boot look

Cordobes Overview

Alfonso Ignacio Cortes founded Cordobes in San Mateo Atenco, near Mexico City, in April 2023. (Previously, he ran a small studio called Cordobanes.)

Inspired by a pair of Yves Saint Laurent shoes during his student years and influenced by Bedo’s Leatherworks, Alfonso learned shoemaking from a local cobbler and sought out cordwaining masters in his area to better learn the trade.

The small team produces about 70 boots a month with just one clicker/upper preparer, two closers, one finisher, and Alfonso himself. There are plans for future expansion to meet growing demand.

How I Reviewed The Boots

As a water plant operator I’ve reviewed several work boots for various publications, which led to a love of casual boots to wear when I’m off the clock. My collection includes four pairs of Red Wing Heritage boots and, brother, it is growing.

I always choose boots over sneakers and wear them both at work and at home, donning them for everything from yard work to grocery runs as part of my boot review process.

For the last two weeks, Cordobes has been my go-to boot for all my activities outside of work, even including my son’s kindergarten graduation. To test their durability, I even wore the Cordobes Service Boots to work for a couple of days.

Even though I’ve completed my review, I will continue to wear these casually. They performed well alongside my Red Wing Super Sole boots for work, passing the test with flying colors.

I’ll discuss the various configurations of these boots in more detail in the upcoming sections.

How to Buy Cordobes

• Made To Order, with a lead time of ~1 month

Cordobes has two methods from which you can choose to order: Made-to-Order, which gives you about a dozen elements to customize, or for those who are happy to leave those choices up to the brand you can just grab one of the On Demand boots, which will just have you pick the sole, leather color, and last (casual/work or sleek).

I got mine in black leather with the luggy sole and the chunkier C-100 last, which allows more room for movement and gave me the option of using it as a work boot.

Customizable Elements

• Lasts: D-25 (slimmer, more fashionable) or C-100 (roomier, more casual)
• Sizes: 7-12 in .5 increments
• Widths: D or EEE
• Soles: Leather, Rubber or Lugged
• Leather Color: Natural, Black, Brown or Chocolate
• Leather Type: Smooth out, Rough out, Suede or Nubuck
• Tongue Leather: Tan, Brown, Black, or Matching
• Stitching Color: Matching, Brown, Tan, Black or White
• Toe Structure: Unstructured, Celastic, or Leather
• Construction: Stitchdown, Blake Rapid, or Handwelt
• Edge Finish: Black, Brown, or Natural
• Laces: Cord or Leather

Because they’re made for you after you make your purchase, Cordobes gives you an impressive number of elements you can customize.

Cordobes Service Boot, C-100 Design & Aesthetics

• Chunky work boot look (the D-25 version is slimmer)
• Matte, oily leather
• Grippy lugged sole (leather and rubber are two other options)

Cordobes sources their leather from Mendele in Mexico City; you have the option of black, brown, a darker “chocolate” and natural, which is undyed leather with a color closer to, well, skin.

The 7-inch tall boots have five pairs of eyelets, two speed hooks, and one additional pair of eyelets for lacing.

Cordobes Service Boot Leather Quality

• 4-5 oz, Full Grain, Oil Tanned Leather
• 4 Color Options Available, Including Brown, Black, Chocolate, Natural
• 2-2.2mm Thick Leather Upper
• 12 oz. Leather Midsole
• 10 oz. Leather Insole
• Unlined Shaft
• 2mm Thick Suede Lined Vamp & Toe Box
• 1.5mm Natural Veg Tan Liner Heel 
• 2mm Natural Veg Leather with Celastic for Hidden Heel Counter
• Natural Veg Tan Leather Heel stack 
• Option of Celastic or Leather in Toe Box

I measured the leather upper at 2-2.2mm thick, similar to work boots I’ve worn like Thorogood and Blundstone. They use “oil-tanned” leather, a term you might have also seen used by Red Wing to describe chrome tanned leather that has a lot of extra oil in the tannage to help with water resistance. I found it substantial yet flexible while wearing.

I chatted with Alfonso as I was writing and taking photos for this review, and he mentioned that he’s looking for a leather that stays smoother than those he curently uses. But personally, I’ve been very happy with the look of the leather, and every crease shows the love I’ve put into these boots.

Cordobes Service Boot Construction

• Double row, Stitchdown Construction
• 1.5 mm Footbed 
• 5 mm thick Leather Insole / Lasting Board
• 4 mm Thick Leather Midsole
• 2 mm Rubber Midsole
• Steel Shank

The double row stitchdown construction adds to the Pacific Northwest logger style this boot might remind you of when it’s made with this chunkier sole and last.

A rare kind of resoleable boot than the more common Goodyear welt, this stitchdown construction sees the upper get one row of stitching through the upper and the midsole, then a second row that goes through the upper, midsole, and outsole.

While you’re basically splitting hairs at this point, most folks agree that stitchdown is technically more water resistant than a Goodyear welt, though it can sometimes be harder to find a cobbler who can resole them when the time comes. (Call ahead before turning up with your boots!)

Cordobes’ Leather Lasting board

The insole also serves as the lasting board for these boots, and it is a hefty 5 mm thick.  The bootmakers wrap the leather upper around the lasting board and attach it to the 4 mm thick leather midsole. Then they place a steel shank between these two layers to help improve stability and weight distribution over the span of the ladder cradle. 

Cordobes Sizing & Fit

• Two Lasts Available, D-25 and C-100
• Mine felt tight before the break in
• Wide Widths (EEE) Available
• Some Half Sizes
• True to size (For C-100)
• Moderate Heel to Toe Drop
• US Sizing

Cordobes offers two lasts, the D-25 and the C-100.  The D-25 is dressier, and has a more almond-shaped toe than my pair.  If you’re wider than D but not as wide as EEE, it’s recommended to simply go up half a size from your true size.

The C-100 is more casual has a roomier toe, and you’re advised to order true to size. You can get more details on the sizing here. 

I initially had concerns when I first slipped these boots on. They were very tight. I walked around the house a little bit and then walked outside with them, and they loosened up. The more I broke them in, the more comfortable they became. Within a couple of hours of wear, they were great. 

Cordobes Service Boot Comfort

• Hard, non-removable footbed
• Old-school bootmaking with no technology like Poron

I’m used to wearing work boots made with more modern components that help with shock absorption and weight, plus they’re usually cheaper than leather: like EVA foam in the midsoles and Poron in the heels. These boots are different: they are straightforward Pacific Northwest (PNW) inspired boots, with thick leather insoles and midsoles. The best part is they manage to be comfortable without all the extra tech.

I’ve walked miles in a day in these and still felt comfortable.

The lug sole I chose is grippy and less dense than some Vibram soles I’ve encountered. It’s unbranded, marked only with “Made in Mexico.”

The lugged sole isn’t for everyone, but Cordobes offers two other options of leather or “Eco-Rubber” soles, which are made from recycled materials. Both are flatter and have a lower profile and may feel less clunky to some wearers.

Price & Value

• $299

The Cordobes Service Boot is listed at $299 on their website at the time of writing.

This price is very reasonable, considering these boots are handmade by a small producer. I have nothing against larger companies like Red Wing; my point is that smaller companies don’t have the same economy of scale and are almost always more expensive than bigger brands.

There are plenty of other differences between Cordobes and Red Wing Shoes. Their flagship Blacksmith (above) currently runs $330. It’s pricier because it’s made in America, sure, but Cordobes uses more complex and expensive construction: it’s got a leather midsole that the Blacksmith doesn’t, and Cordobes’ stitchdown construction is more laborious and is performed by hand.

If made in the US, these boots would certainly cost over $500. If you’re wondering if it’s good value for a Mexican brand, the answer is still yes: Unmarked is another company that makes stitchdown service boots south of the border and they cost twice the price.

To be honest, I don’t expect the price to stay this low for much longer.

What I Liked

• I love the old-school feel of these boots; they remind me of vintage Pacific Northwest work boots
• The ability to resole is a definite plus.
• This construction is rare and arguably more durable and water resistant than even Goodyear welted boots
• They came with two different lengths of paracord-style laces.
• Cordobes offers tons of customization options when ordering boots, including two lasts

What I Didn’t Like

• Small issue with the sockliner not being glued all the way down
• These boots weigh nearly 5 lbs. for the pair, which may be heavy for some.
• The break in wasn’t pleasant.
• Lug sole may be too chunky for some – order with Eco-Rubber instead.

The Conclusion

I fell in love with these Cordobes at first sight. I’m happy that I chose the Service Boot in black, but Cordobes offers many other options through their Made To Order system. You can customize your boots for an extra cost to get them exactly how you want.

Wearing these boots has been a great experience, and I look forward to many more years with them. If the lug sole isn’t your preference, you can opt for the Eco-Rubber sole for a less chunky feel.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about these boots as much as I’ve enjoyed wearing them—they’re great! If you want to try a PNW-inspired work boot for a fraction of the price, this is the way to go.

Alfonso drew inspiration from Nick’s and White’s boots for some design choices, like the screw-down lug sole and suede-lined vamp. Though if you go with the more almond shaped C-100, you might be reminded more of Viberg’s PNW boots.

My final thoughts? Take a chance! I love wearing mine just as much as my Red Wing Heritage boots, and given how they’re made, they’re even better value.