• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar
Stridewise

Stridewise

It's a Boot Time

  • Best Boots
  • Boot Reviews
    • Popular Reviews
      • Thursday Captain Boot
      • Red Wing Iron Ranger
      • Wolverine 1000 Mile
      • Viberg Service Boot
      • Grant Stone Diesel Boot
    • Cowboy Boots
    • Work Boots
    • All Reviews
    • Comparisons
      • Red Wing Iron Ranger Vs. Wolverine 1000 Mile
      • Timberlands Vs Doc Martens
      • Thursday’s Captain vs President Boots
      • All Comparisons
  • Boot Guides
  • Gear
    • Bags
      • Backpacks
      • Leather Bags
    • Denim
    • Jackets & Outerwear
      • Leather Jackets
      • Waxed Canvas Jackets
  • About
    • About Nick
    • Review Process
    • Our Experts
    • Revenue
    • Contact
    • Subscribe
Home › Culture

Goodyear Welt Vs. Blake Stitch Vs. Cement — Which is Best?

Nick EnglishEditor-in-Chief
Updated Aug 1, 2024

This post may contain affiliate links that at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission from.

Even though it doesn’t refer to leather quality, style, country of origin, or the material of the sole, it’s fair to say that the words “Goodyear welt” have become synonymous with high-quality footwear.

In fact, the number one online forum for discussing high-end men’s boots on Reddit decided to take the term as its mantle. (You can check them out on r/goodyearwelt.) Here, we want to explain why it has such a stellar reputation and explore the more popular alternatives that can be found in men’s footwear. Is the Goodyear welt really the be-all and end-all of boot construction?

So What Is Goodyear Welt?

“It’s definitely a sign of high quality,” says Steven Taffel, founder of Leffot, a high-end New York boutique specializing in classic men’s footwear. “It’s very traditional, it’s very sturdy, and in my opinion it’s the best way to sole a shoe.”

There are also several different kinds of Goodyear welts, but here we’re talking about the term as it’s generally defined. A Goodyear welt is the construction that is used to attach the upper of the shoe to the sole of the shoe. The welt is almost always a strip of leather (though it can technically be rubber or plastic) that runs along the perimeter of shoe’s sole. It gets sewn to the upper before it’s attached to the sole, and then the strip gets sewn to the sole. It’s a way of connecting the two.

Goodyear welt constuction

What’s important is that not only does this improve water resistance, this results in a buffer of sorts: because it’s not part of the sole or the upper, it makes it far easier for the shoes to be resoled.

“It allows it to be taken apart and resoled over and over without changing the fit, as long as it’s done on the same last it was originally made on,” says Taffel.

Remember, Goodyear welts aren’t restricted to any particular sole. Vibram, leather, dainite, and anything in between can be part of a Goodyearwelt boot. It just refers to the way the upper is attached to the sole.

Grant Stone Diesel boot plastic

A storm welt on the Grant Stone Diesel Boot, with some plastic from the construction process remaining.

Goodyear Welt Vs. Storm Welt

Considered a kind of Goodyear welt and sometimes called a split-reverse welt — although a split-reverse welt, as seen in Parkhurst boots, is more flexible — the storm welt uses the same construction as a Goodyear welt but with a slightly different welt. While most shoes use what’s called a flat welt, a storm welt is wider. Why? That allows for the welt to bend upwards, so that there’s more of a seal around the barrier between upper and the mid-sole.

storm welt construction

It’s a little more water proof and it adds extra protection to prevent muck and water from getting stuck under the boot’s upper sole. Aesthetically, some guys aren’t fans.

Taft Jack boot toecap scratch

The Taft Jack boot is a popular Blake stitched shoe that has a decorative welt to make it look more like a Goodyear.

Goodyear Welt Vs. Blake Stitch

Of course, there are plenty of other ways to go about attaching shoes to soles. When talking high-end footwear, the Goodyear welt is often contrasted with the Blake stitch.

“The Blake stitch is used more in Italian shoes, where the upper is sewn directly to the sole,” says Taffel. “It generally creates a more flexible type of shoe.”

blake rapid stitch

That flexibility is because it has fewer layers, which also results in a more discreet welt. Like Goodyear welts, the Blake stitch is practically always done by machine, since it requires stitching on the inside of the shoe. Because it’s simpler, it’s cheaper — but it’s harder to resole because you need a specific Blake machine to do so. It’s also less water resistant because it allows direct access to the foot from the exterior. It’s not necessarily bad, but it’s for more delicate footwear.

Converse chuck taylor all star

A cemented sole on the classic Chuck Taylor All Star from Converse.

Goodyear Welt Vs. Cementing

The cheapest and most common way to sole a shoe is called cemented construction, also known as “stuck on construction” in the UK. Yes, the name makes it sound pretty rudimentary and inelegant.

That’s because it is. Cementing requires attaching the sole to the upper with some form of adhesive, and it while it makes for far cheaper shoes and it makes sense for the gummy, rubbery soles of sneakers, it’s not considered a great way to sole boots. It totally prevents the ability to resole: once the sole starts to peel away, the shoe is more or less done.

cement construction

Welt This Way

We haven’t covered all of the ways of attaching soles to shoes here, but these are the best known methods — and it’s fair to say that Goodyear welts have become shorthand for quality footwear. While the Blake stitch still allows for relatively easy resoling, Goodyear is easily the best in terms of durability, solidity, water resistance, and longevity.

[Related: My list of The Best Boots]

Images courtesy of Nghia Hoang at the Vietnam Raw Denim Facebook group.

Nick English

Editor-in-Chief

Nick English, the founder and editor of Stridewise, combines a rich background in journalism with well-recognized expertise in welted footwear and casual menswear.

Facebook Twitter Instagram YouTube LinkedIn More articles by Nick English

You Might Also Like

which boots can you resole? Expert cobblers explain
Which Boots Can Be Resoled? Cemented, Blake Stitch, Goodyear Welted, & More
boot making lessons
10 Things I Learned Making My Own Boots
show goto boot construction
Why Hand Welted Boots are Better Than Goodyear Welted
thursday vanguard featured 1
5 Things to Look for When Buying a Pair of Boots
Stridewise team

About Stridewise

by Nick English

Founded in 2018 to help men buy the best boots, we’ve since expanded our team and purview to review and celebrate casual footwear and menswear that’s as close to “buy it for life” quality as possible. We take great pride in being a trusted source for information while maintaining complete editorial independence. At no extra cost to you, we might earn a commission from a brand when you purchase through our links, which helps us keep our mission alive. Learn More

11 Ways to Save Money on Boots

Subscribe for an exclusive article to help you find the best deals on quality footwear.

Reader Interactions

Comments

    Join the Discussion Cancel reply

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

  1. Scar

    December 1, 2019 at 11:28 am

    Those illustrations are terrible. I can’t make heads or tails of what they are supposed to be explaining. It sure doesn’t look like any part of a shoe from whatever angle or magnification is shown.

    Reply
    • Nick

      December 1, 2019 at 6:52 pm

      Haha they’ve been published in a few places, I thought they were pretty cool!

      Reply
    • Cyril Hudak

      September 7, 2021 at 3:08 pm

      You are so wrong. Those are some of the best illustrations I have seen and explain the different processes perfectly. However you must watch several hours of shoe repair videos on YouTube before they make sense, I’ll give you that.

      Reply
      • Nick

        October 4, 2021 at 12:28 am

        lol!

        Reply
    • mark kohlmeyer

      November 3, 2021 at 11:40 am

      I recommend a new Optometrist.

      Reply
  2. Raimundo

    January 11, 2020 at 10:21 am

    I got more information with these graphics. For sure, if all were described in really vision would be great.

    Reply
    • Nick

      January 12, 2020 at 3:51 pm

      Oh cool, thanks Raimundo glad you liked them.

      Reply
  3. Phil Studge

    January 18, 2020 at 9:39 pm

    I rather like the ‘folksy’ illustrations. Not the most detailed but here, on this page, we get a rather complete discussion of the most familia soling methods. Well done.
    I favor the Goodyear welt for most purposes, but I live in Oregon – I like the ‘split welt’ for winter slogs through the slush.

    Reply
    • Nick

      January 25, 2020 at 5:32 pm

      Thanks for commenting! Took a while to learn that a split welt is like a more flexible storm welt.

      Reply
  4. Lou

    July 7, 2021 at 4:17 pm

    There are rally great quAlity cement boots and they also resolable.

    Reply
    • Nick

      July 27, 2021 at 12:54 pm

      There are great quality cemented boots but… I don’t think they can be resoled? Unless you’re talking about cutting the sole off the boot,

      Reply

Primary Sidebar

Want to dress better?

See which boots suit your preferences and style.

My Top Picks

Most Popular

Best made in usa boots

The 10 Best American-Made Boots

Best chelsea boots for men 1024x576 1

The 10 Best Chelsea Boots

best moc toe boot

The 6 Best Moc Toe Boots

Stridewise team

About Stridewise

by Nick English

Founded in 2018 to help men buy the best boots, we’ve since expanded our team and purview to review and celebrate casual footwear and menswear that’s as close to “buy it for life” quality as possible. We take great pride in being a trusted source for information while maintaining complete editorial independence. At no extra cost to you, we might earn a commission from a brand when you purchase through our links, which helps us keep our mission alive. Learn More

11 Ways to Save Money on Boots

Subscribe for an exclusive article to help you find the best deals on quality footwear.

Most Recent

Red wing chukka review featured

Red Wing Work Chukka Boot Review: 8 Years and One Resole

How to wear camp collar shirt

How to Wear Camp Collar Shirt: Style Tips Every Guy Should Know

How to wear loafers with jeans

How to Wear Loafers with Jeans According to Menswear Experts

Best summer fabrics breathable

The Best Breathable Summer Fabrics in Menswear

Blundstone vs dr martens

Blundstone vs. Dr. Martens Chelsea Boots: Which is Better?

Trending Now

  • a man pondering the best boots for men16 Best Boots For Men to Buy Tested By Experts (Spring 2025)
  • doc martens alternatives6 Doc Marten Alternatives That Don’t Suck
  • Best leather briefcases for men, Satchel & Page Counselor on the right, and Saddleback Pilot on the left11 Best Leather Briefcases for Men in 2025: High-End, Budget, Vintage, and More
  • best american boot brands10 Best American Made Boots to Buy in 2025 (Made in USA!)
Stridewise

Casual Durable™.

Yup, we even trademarked it. Just because you’re dressed down, doesn’t mean you have to dress bad. 

This site started to help guys find the best boots for their dollar and has since expanded to cover the highest quality casual menswear, from leather jackets to selvedge jeans to canvas bags — the kind of simple, fashionproof classics that help you get dressed without overthinking your “style.” Read more

  • About
  • Careers
  • Contact
  • Our Experts

11 Ways to Save Money on Boots

Subscribe for an exclusive article to help you find the best deals on quality footwear.

Articles by Category

  • Accessories
  • Backpacks
  • Bags
  • Boot & Leather Care
  • Boot Guides
  • Boot Reviews
  • Boots
  • Briefcases
  • Clothing
  • Comparison
  • Cowboy Boots
  • Culture
  • Denim
  • Denim Jackets
  • Denim Review
  • Fabric
  • Footwear
  • Hats
  • Jackets & Outerwear
  • Leather Bags
  • Leather Conditioners
  • Leather Jackets
  • Loafers
  • Pens
  • Shirts
  • Sneakers
  • Waxed Canvas Jackets
  • Women's Boots
  • Work Boots
  • Facebook
  • TikTok
  • Instagram
  • YouTube
  • Pinterest
  • LinkedIn
  • X

© 2025 · Stridewise · All Rights Reserved · Terms · Privacy · Affiliate Disclosure · Accessibility