In all likelihood, you’re here to choose which kind of jean is best for you. Fortunately, I’ve spent the better part of a decade reviewing and exploring brands all over the world, a “career” that has brought me to factories and workshops in England, Holland, Canada, Malaysia, Indonesia, and more.

So I’ll break down how to choose:

• your fit
• your fabric
• your finish

The Most Common Jeans By Fit

• Remember most brands do “vanity sizing”: if you measure a size 32, it’s usually 34.
• Measure the waist, rise, and thigh of your favorite pants and compare with the brand’s measurements
• If everything else fits, you can always get the waist taken in

Your body will largely determine the waist and thigh measurements you need. The two details that really determine the look and which you have the most control over are the rise (how high the butt is) and the hem (a.k.a. “leg opening”).

A higher rise generally looks cleaner, works for the most body types, and stays put — no plumber’s crack.

The leg opening has a big influence on your silhouette. Whether narrow or wide leg openings are in style depends on the hour of the day; wide came back in a big way in the 2020s, but the winds may have shifted.

If it’ll fit you, the straight leg is the most immune to trends.

Fit type	Cut	Best for	Notes from Stridewise experts
Straight	Medium rise, very slight taper at ankle	Most guys; most shoes and boots	Timeless and trendproof.
Relaxed Straight	Roomy thighs, medium or high rise, slight taper	Guys with bigger thighs or who prefer looser shirts/jackets	The best way to have a roomy fit that won’t look dated.
Relaxed Taper	Wide thigh, tapers close to the ankle	Sleek footwear; Athletic guys who want a slim fit	More or less follows the natural shape of the leg.
Slim / skinny	Closer to the body	Thin guys; minimalist style; sharp shoes	Goes in and out of style; easier to pull off with black jeans.
Wide / loose / baggy	Wide thigh and a wide leg opening	Bigger guys; chunky footwear; streetwear	The most casual fit; might go out of style before you get home.

Straight Leg

• Looks straight from hip to hem, but it tapers a little
• Medium rise, good for most thighs
• Good examples: Levi’s 501, Left Field’s Greaser, A.P.C.’s New Standard

The “straight leg” is the most popular and time-tested fit. Designed to flatter as many body types as possible, the waist isn’t too low and the only-slightly-tapered leg opening isn’t too narrow or wide.

“Straight” means they look straight, but it doesn’t mean the thigh and leg opening are the same diameter; those jeans would look extremely wide. More often, a straight fit’s leg opening is about the same width as the knee.

Straight fits are the default and they deserve to be, steadfastly remaining popular as loose and slim fits go in and out of style.

“When in doubt, stick with a timeless straight-leg,” says Alejandro Jomar. “Full Count’s 1101 or a classic Levi’s 501 repro is ideal.”

Slim Straight

• A straight leg with slimmer thighs and a lower rise

Levi’s 511 is a popular example I used to wear a lot before I started squatting. All three of the photos above are of Levi’s 511: whether or not the slim straight looks slim on you depends on how big your thighs are.

You might call a Slim Straight the best fit for a slim guy who wants the look of a straight fit, but a regular straight fit looks too loose on his thighs.

Relax tapered jeans

• Roomy thighs with a strong taper at the ankle
• Often has a higher rise than straight legs
• Often favored for athletic builds
• Good examples: Naked & Famous’s Easy Guy, Brave Star’s Strongman

Relax Tapered jeans are big in the thighs, high in the rise, and slim at the ankle. They basically mimic the shape of the human leg but are better suited for guys with bigger thighs.

Above, I said the Slim Straight is good for slim guys who want the look of a straight leg jean. The Relaxed Taper is good for bigger guys who want the look of a slim jean. (Big thighs just won’t fit a Slim jean.)

Relax Tapered is a favorite of guys with extra weight on their thighs, whether that’s because they lift heavy or because they could stand to lose a few pounds.

Relaxed Straight

• Sits between Straight and Relaxed fits
• Roomy thighs, not too tapered
• Usually has a higher rise than straight legs

Relaxed Straight is a little harder to come by, but as a guy with big thighs, it’s my favorite fit. It’s ideal for guys who like the silhouette of the classic straight leg but want more room in that top block for their butt and thighs.

Slim and Skinny

• “Slim” is closer to the body, especially the thighs, than a straight leg
• “Skinny” is slimmer than that
• These fits tend to have a low rise

They were in during the 2000s, then out in the 2020s, and they may be coming back — I’m too old to follow these trends that closely.

I doubt I need to explain that slim jeans are for slim legs and skinny jeans are for skinny legs, but I will point out that the rise tends to be low on these fits as well.

Stridewise writer Troy Barmore is in the photos above in slim fit Iron Heart jeans. Because he’s a slim guy and he didn’t go for skinny, they look totally normal on him.

Such slim fitting models usually have at least one pressure-release valve: stretch in the fabric, a curved waistband, or an ankle opening that isn’t vacuum-sealed to your leg.

Wide / Loose

• Usually don’t taper from the thigh at all
• May or may not have a high rise

In the 2020s, Gen Z brought wide jeans back in style. As a guy with big thighs I thought they’d be ideal, and it’s true that if you have big legs and a small waist, then a “wide” leg that properly fits your waist can look pretty subtle.

Measurements-wise, loose jeans don’t always have a high rise, but they do tend to fall straight from the thigh to the leg opening without tapering at all.

Types of Denim Fabrics and Finishes

Fabric might have even more to do with the experience than fit. Denim hobbyists love to pore over specific weaves and specific looms, but for this kind of article I thought I’d just write out this quick glossary to help you choose.

Term	Definition	Why it matters
Selvedge denim	Woven on (slow, expensive) shuttle looms	Favored by enthusiasts, selvedge denim tends to have more texture and character than the regular kind
Washed / rinsed denim	Washed in a big machine at the factory after it’s sewn	Most jeans are washed because it makes them softer out of the box
Raw denim	Jeans that haven’t been washed after they’re made, so they’re stiffer	Less comfortable at first, but does a better job of shaping to your body with time; good for fading
Stretch denim	Cotton is spun with a synthetic material like elastane, spandex, lycra, or polyurethane	More form fitting and more forgiving on bigger bodies. 2 percent stretch is enough; more than 10 percent and they won’t feel much like jeans.
Unsanforized / “Shrink-to-fit”	Not sanforized, a process that uses heat and/or chemicals to pre-shrink the denim	This is rare, but if it’s unsanforized. it’ll shrink about two sizes on the first wash
One-wash	Washed at the factory to soften fabric or reduce shrinkage	Washing usually helps with comfort; it also means the denim won’t shrink much if it’s unsanforized (again, rare)
Faded / distressed	Washed with chemicals to fade the color and often abraded with sandpaper, stones, and/or tools to mimic long term wear	Most jeans these days have been pre-distressed to a degree
Stonewashed	A form of distressing, the denim has been literally washed in a machine with a bunch of pumice stones	Softens and distresses the fabric for an extra worn-in effect
Heavyweight	Most denim used for jeans is about 11 ounces in weight; ‘heavyweight’ tends to be 20 ounces and up	It feels more like armor and is great to wear in winter, but even though it softens with wear, it’s not the kind of comfort you’re used to.

Is Selvedge Denim Better?

Selvedge is a kind of denim that’s woven on shuttle looms, which were largely replaced by more efficient looms in the mid-20th century.

Selvedge denim’s more expensive because modern looms make fabric about ten times faster, plus shuttle looms require a lot of maintenance.

Denim enthusiasts prefer selvedge because it tends to make fabric that’s more textured. It’s not true that selvedge denim is always thicker, stronger, or better. But it is true that people and brands who are really passionate about denim usually work with selvedge.

Is selvedge denim better than regular denim? No. Is it way more likely to be better than regular denim? Yes.

How to Choose the Right Type of Jeans for You

Use this shortcut: pick the fit first, then pick the fabric.

• Safest everyday option: straight leg jeans made of cotton and 2 or 3 percent stretch. 100% cotton denim breathes better, but there’s no denying that a straight leg with a little stretch is the most popular choice.
• Best for bigger guys: Relaxed taper or Relaxed Straight will accommodate you without looking sloppy.
• Stretch or non-stretch? Stretch denim feels more like sweatpants and is usually favored by bigger guys. It’s easier to find the right fit with stretch denim, just note it doesn’t breathe as well as rigid denim in the heat.