How to Wear Loafers With a Suit: 10 Tips for Looking Your Best

So, you got a cool new pair of loafers, and you can’t wait to hit the town in a formal suit (or hit the yacht in a linen suit) and show them off. Congratulations on your new life as a loafers guy!

But wait, you’ve stumbled upon an online naysayer wagging his finger: you can’t wear loafers with a suit. Your crest falls. “But I know I’ve seen guys pair loafers with ties…”

Yes, you have! So the question becomes: is a guys who wears loafers to a business meeting breaking the rules or is it, in fact, totally acceptable to dress up loafers?

To settle the question of a loafer’s dressiness we went to Manhattan and sat down with Justin Fitzpatrick from J.FitzPatrick Footwear to learn about different types of loafers, which leathers dress a loafer up or down, and how the rules of styling them change depending on the country.

Watch the full video above, or read on for our complete guide to wearing loafers with a suit: all of your most burning questions answered, and all of our top tips summarized and explained.

First, the Big Question: Can You Wear Loafers With a Suit?

• In the 21st century, leather loafers can be worn with a suit and tie
• This is a little more common in the US and continental Europe than in the UK
• It’s tougher to wear suede loafers formally, especially in more conservative environments
• Don’t go sockless and match your socks to your trousers if you’re playing it safe

The short answer: Yes! The rules of pulling it off vary a bit from country to country and industry to industry, but loafers and suits can be a match made in heaven. The category of “loafers” encompasses a huge variety of models, so while white suede tassel loafers aren’t ideal for the office, there are plenty of outfits that are.

It used to be considered more formal and traditional to wear shoes with laces with a suit, and indeed, that’s still the default. But loafers have been famously worn in American offices since at least the 1980s. (Yes, you’re remembering all the Gucci loafers in movies about ’80s Wall Street traders.)

“In America, you’ll find guys on Fifth Avenue wearing bit loafers with suits. But in England, you’ll find guys wearing sharp penny loafers with a chiseled last with their suits. In France, it was the Andy Berluti loafer. And when you go to Italy, that’s the king of brown suede loafers with suits and ties,” says FitzPatrick. “I guess it depends on the formality of the occasion but if you’re just talking about business attire, wearing a suit to work with classic, elegant loafers? Of course.”

We’re focusing on how to wear leather loafers with suits: casual suits, business suits, and everything in between. We all still want to be comfortable in our favorite shoes, even on formal occasions.

10 Rules for Wearing Loafers With a Suit

Obviously, no one is enforcing these “rules,” but if you’re in conservative company, or your boss is on the older side, or you just want the lowest possible chance of raising eyebrows with your footwear:

1. The sleeker the loafer, the dressier it can be.
2. Avoid going sockless with a suit.
3. The safest option is to match your socks to your pants.
4. Avoid wacky colors and patterns on your socks (unless you really know what you’re doing).
5. Dark brown or black leather is the safest/most versatile loafer style.
6. Pick a penny loafer in calfskin or cordovan.
7. Avoid beefrolls on your loafers, they dress them down.
8. Black bit loafers are good with suits.
9. Tassel loafers are probably too casual to wear with a tie.
10. Whole cut loafers can be dressed up if they’re black and have a medallion and/or broguing.

Rule #1: The sleeker the loafer, the dressier it can be.

The sleeker the better, generally speaking. Almond or chiseled toes make a more streamlined, formal look. Our favorite is from Spain’s Carmina Shoemaker, who makes them using perhaps the ideal formal leather, box calf. You can shop elsewhere, of course, but remember that combination: sleek penny loafer in box calf.

Shell cordovan is the other leather that’s ideal for dressing up (though it’s far more expensive), and opt for a stitching style that’s more minimal and refined as opposed to more visible/high-contrast stitching.

I’ve worn these loafers myself with a black suit to the opera at the Lincoln Center in Manhattan, and they’re perfect for a variety of formal occasions. I just wouldn’t recommend it for white tie events since a tuxedo calls for more specialized footwear like formal pumps or patent leather oxfords.

Rule #2: Avoid going sockless with a suit.

Wearing loafers with a suit? Wear socks! Going sockless can look too casual—like you’re on vacation—and make your overall look less professional or formal.

“With a suit, you must have socks,” Justin says. Otherwise, the contrast of bare ankles and a well-fitting suit clashes and creates a confusing contrast.

More casual or business casual trousers (without a crease) can work with sockless loafers—perhaps with chinos and a navy blazer—but if you’re wearing a full suit, sock up.

No, a no-show sock doesn’t count. We’re talking about visible socks that cover the ankle; folks shouldn’t see any of your hairy legs when you’re dressed up. Save the sockless look for a laid-back summer stroll or backyard barbecue.

Rule #3: The safest option is to match your socks to your pants.

What color of socks should you wear with your suit and loafers? If unsure, match the color of your trousers, eg. black pants, black socks, navy pants, navy socks.

“What that does is elongate your legs and also puts focus on the shoe, as opposed to focus on your ankle region,” says FitzPatrick.

Rule #4: Avoid wacky colors and patterns on your socks.

Zany socks had their moment for a while, and they can be fine for business casual, but if you’re playing it safe, you should stick to solid colors, pinstripes, or very subtle patterns. Otherwise, you’ll distract from the formal vibe of your outfit.

And remember; aim for the same color family as that of your trousers. The look above is navy trousers with lighter blue striped socks, which is as boundary-pushing as you should go if you want to look dressy and professional.

Rule #5: Smooth, dark brown leather is the most versatile for loafers.

When it comes to the most “safe” and versatile color of loafer, Justin recommends dark brown or black leather in a smooth, glossy finish.

Lighter shades of leather, or any color of suede, are best paired with navy suits and are going to look a little less formal. Darker colors = less potential for controversy or clashing.

We know that suede loafers are beloved by many, but while FitzPatrick does wear his own suede loafers with suits, he thinks that’s a more advanced move for guys with a lot of “sartorial confidence.”

“I think (smooth) leather is easier for people who are not doing this daily,” he says.

Rule #6: If you’re playing it safe, stick to a penny loafer in smooth leather calfskin.

The penny loafer is probably the most well-known style of loafer, with its signature leather strap over the top (the term “penny loafer” comes from an old-timey practice of putting a penny in that slit in the strap).

Penny loafers can be casual or dressy, chunky or sleek; the term is more or less just used to show your loafer isn’t decorated with a horsebit or tassel.

Are penny loafers formal enough to be considered dress loafers? Sure — “penny loafer” basically just means “standard loafer,” so it depends down to the leather, the silhouette, and how you style them.

If we’re giving advice to guys new to this world: go with a classic model, penny loafer, calfskin leather.

Justin FitzPatrick, Loafer Expert

Because it wrinkles finely and has a less pronounced grain, calfskin is the go-to for any dressy footwear. A bulletproof choice is box calf, a term for a smooth and glossy kind of form that guarantees you won’t end up with the rare “rugged” calfskin.

In a brown shade, penny loafers pair well with a navy suit and with business casual attire. Black is dressier, so it’s a surer bet with a tie but risks looking out of place with a business casual look like chinos and tweed, particularly since black matches with fewer colors.

Pick black for black, grey, or navy suits. Brown loafers can more easily pull double duty of transitioning from casual slip-ons to comfortable dress shoes with a variety of less formal suits or outfits.

Rule #7: Beefrolls make a loafer too casual for a suit.

What are beefrolls? We’re not talking about the food! Well, we sort of are—this detail on loafers is named after how beef roast looks when it’s wrapped up in twine. In footwear speak, they refer to the leather edges of the penny strap that are rolled under and stitched on the sides of the upper, as seen above.

Beefrolls are great if you’re worried your loafers are too dressy and you’re looking for a pair you can wear with shorts. Conversely, they make them a bit too casual to wear with a suit. Finer, less prominent stitching has a more dressed-up look. (On that note, you don’t want contrast stitching either, like the white-on-brown look above on Oak Street’s Beefroll.)

“It just dresses it down a lot, when it’s beefroll,” Nick says. “But this makes it easier to wear with shorts.”

For casual events, beefroll loafers might be more desirable. But we’re here to talk about formal settings and other situations where you’re wearing suits.

Rule #8: Black horsebit loafers work with suits.

Horsebit loafers, or “bit loafers,” have a metal accent piece on the top that resembles the snaffle bit you put in a horse’s mouth and attach to the reins to move its head.

Because they were invented by the Gucci family in 1953, they’re often called Gucci loafers, even when they’re not made by that brand. The metal detail on the top is a nice way to add some ornamentation, but its sharp, chromey look keeps it from dressing down too much.

It also cemented its utility as formal dress loafers because the model was released in smooth black leather, a dressier material that was fairly unusual on loafers at the time. So the rise of bit loafers and dressy loafers coincided — and this rise happened in the United States.

“The bit loafer got its fame mainly in New York City, that’s where it kind of took off. Less so in Europe, although it is moving that way,” says FitzPatrick. “So when you come to New York and you walk down Fifth or Madison, you’re going to see a bunch of guys in black bit loafers all over the place.”

Bit loafers can even work with a three-piece suit, but get ’em in black if you want to play it safe. The horsebit is associated with dressier footwear, so wearing it with less formal leather is a riskier move. But if you’re dressing more business casual, you can get away with a lighter shade of bit loafer.

Rule #9: Tassel loafers are probably too casual to wear with a tie.

Tassel loafers have a mixed rep in the shoe world: some people find them too old-school and to be too much of a “dad shoe” for younger guys, while others love the look of tassels with a suit.

“I think the tassel loafers are coming back in America in a big way—but more casual, like with jeans and a polo,” says FitzPatrick, who associates the style with wider, more relaxed footwear worn by baby boomers. “You don’t see a lot of guys in America wearing tassel loafers with suits.”

So, can you wear them with a suit?

“I feel like they have very different histories from America to the UK,” he adds. “Growing up, I didn’t like them at all. But then I moved to England and Crockett & Jones’ Cavendish is, like, the most famous shoe in the UK. Everybody has one and they’re all wearing them with suits.”

So whether you should wear them with a suit, like all of these not-enforced rules, is pretty subjective. But if you’re going to do it, follow the previous rules: make it sleek and keep the leather dark and smooth.

Rule #10: Wholecut loafers can be dressed up if they’re black and have some broguing.

Also called the Venetian loafer, the whole cut loafer—also sometimes called a slipper—can easily read casual in certain contexts, evoking the kind of footwear a man would wear in his smoking room with a velvet robe.

Given the definition usually includes moc stitching, it’s debatable as to whether or not these are loafers. But if you want to try some out, FitzPatrick says you just need to remember: they should have a “medallion” of broguing on the toe if you want to elevate it to a dress shoe.

“I don’t think I’d wear [this style of] loafer in black with no broguing [with a suit],” Justin says. “I’d wear it in brown or casual colors, but not with a suit.”

They’re very popular as wedding shoes, though — as long as they’re in a smooth leather with some broguing to break up the toe.

Wearing Loafers: Where to Start With Outfit Planning

As we discussed in our article How to Wear Loafers: From Casual to Formal Outfits, leather loafers can be matched with everything from formal attire to smart casual to a business suit. Honestly, all stylish men should own a pair of loafers that suit their style—young men, old men, businessmen, streetwear lords, and everyone in between.

The humble and versatile loafer is truly a do-it-all-show, seamlessly taking you from the coffee shop to formal events—you just have to get the right pair of loafers for your outfit.

To be honest, if you’re getting one pair, get a brown penny loafer without beef rolls and you’ll find yourself able to wear it in almost any setting. If you want there to be no question as to whether or not you can wear it with a suit, get a sleek model made with black box calf leather like Carmina’s.

How Suits and Loafers Are Styled: USA vs. England vs. France vs. Italy

The “rules” about wearing loafers with suits are not universal—while traditions are changing globally and stateside, there are definitely some trends you’ll see more in certain regions and countries when it comes to styling this type of footwear.

We’re not writing this article for guys who are really confident in styling their loafers. (If you were, you wouldn’t need to read this article, would you?) We’re writing about the least controversial ways to dress up leather loafers for guys who are new to this kind of footwear and/or guys who are entering a conservative environment and they want to make sure they don’t raise the eyebrows of the stuffiest coworkers.

So with that in mind: if you’re wearing a suit and tie you should opt for dress loafers that have a sleek shape, smooth leather, and are dark brown or black. Black loafers are the dressiest, horsebits are more acceptable in the United States, tassels should probably be avoided, and you should always be wearing socks that match your trousers.

Those are “rules” that’ll work anywhere. Suede is more common in Italy, horsebits are less common in the UK.

Final Takeaways for Wearing Loafers With a Suit

Remember: Generally speaking, darker shades of leather are going to look dressier than lighter or more colorful shoes. Choose your loafers accordingly, especially if they’re being worn with a suit or in formal dress.

Overall, loafers are extremely versatile shoes that can parlay with a variety of different outfits, from informal settings to smart casual vibes to a more sophisticated look. It all comes down to whether you follow the tips above — and, of course, wear them with confidence.

We hope you find the perfect pair of loafers for whatever events are on your social or business calendar.

Stridewise’s Picks for the Best Dress Loafers

• Best Dress Loafer: Carmina 10082 Simpson Loafer (~$550)
• Best Horse Bit Loafers: Allen Edmonds Randolph ($450)
• Best Tassel Loafer: J. Fitzpatrick Tassel Loafer ($325)
• Best Value Loafer: Thursday’s Lincoln Loafer ($168)

Don’t forget to watch our new video on how to wear loafers with a suit for Nick and Justin in conversation and a more in-depth explanation of these 10 handy rules.

Thanks for speaking with us, Justin! Visit the J.FitzPatrick Footwear at 101 Thompson Street in New York City.