Review: Meermin’s Loafers Are Probably the Best Value on Earth

When assessing the value of a piece of footwear, two concerns are at the top of the list: the quality of the materials and where it’s made. 

The quality of the craftsmanship plays a role as well, of course, especially when you venture into the extra handmade world of, say, hand welting or stitchdown construction. 

But when it comes to loafers, it’s usually a given that they won’t be made with that kind of high-end, ultra-tough build — people tend to prefer lighter and more flexible loafers, and the market has responded by giving us loafers with simpler construction.

Anyway, I’ve worn and owned dozens and dozens of loafers, and when you’re looking at the quality of materials and where they’re made, I think there’s a really strong case to be made for Meermin Mallorca as producing the best value loafers — even though they aren’t actually made in Mallorca.

I like ‘em so much I got three pairs, so in this review I’m going to review all of them: the tassel loafer on the dressy Ron last, my older penny loafer on the casual Nova last, and the new and more casual Sway last. 

Meermin’s Tassel Loafers: Pros and Cons

I like to write long and verbose articles about loafers, but I also know that you’re really just here to get the pros and cons as quickly as you can. So here’s a summary of everything that comes after this section!

What I Like

• Unmatched value
• Leathers from brand name tanneries
• Durable and resoleable Goodyear welt construction 
• Good range of colors and styles
• Easy to order online
• Lightweight and breathable
• Different options for lining and last

Downsides But Not Dealbreakers

• UK sizing can be hard to work out 
• Not everyone likes the leather soles on my loafers (though you have other options)
• Models tend to be pretty slim and low profile; a little hard to wear with shorts
• The dressiest Ron last is uncomfortably narrow on the toes
• No wide widths available 

Comparing the Different Meermin Loafers and Lasts

Meermin’s bad at naming their products; they just give them a series of numbers. But the two loafers I’ve been wearing are their 101412 Tassel Loafer in brown suede on the Ron last and the 514511 unlined Penny Loafer on the Nova last. I’ll just call them the Ron loafer and the Nova loafer. More recently I picked up their latest model, the 514040 Penny Loafer on the Sway last that’s designed for a more American audience with a roomier and more casual toe.

(Note that a last is the foot shaped mold you build a shoe or boot on; it dictates the shape and fit of the finished product.)

Tassel Loafer, Ron Last

Exclusively used on their loafers, the Ron has the dressiest silhouette of Meermin’s loafers.

I seldom dress up, so I got mine in brown suede, but the sleekness and pointiness still make the Ron loafers hard to wear with shorts, even with such a casual leather. It’s almond-toed, narrow across the vamp, and low on the instep, running close to the foot to minimize the chances of a loose fit.

In other words, this is a very European last. These folks tend to wear their loafers tight and build them sleek, and the Ron is the ideal last for guys looking to dress their loafers up; mine are in a casual suede, but there are plenty of Ron loafers in dressy calfskin you can wear with a suit.

But I’ve got to say: I don’t like the Ron last. It’s a good example of Meermin’s achilles heel: they’ve spent more time selling to Europeans than to Americans, and Europeans prefer slimmer loafers. This American found it to pinch my toes uncomfortably.

Penny Loafer, Nova Last

This Nova is only used on their unlined loafers, and it’s positioned as the more casual alternative to the Ron: it still fits close to the heel, but the forefoot is more generous and round.

But look: it’s still a very European last. It’s less almond shaped than the Ron and more comfortable on your toes, but the average American would probably prefer something roomier and rounder if they’re dressing down. Still, this is Meermin’s most versatile loafer.

It’s very important to note that the Nova loafers are also unlined, so it’s fair to say they’re Meermin’s best loafers for summer. A lack of lining combined with a leather sole and suede upper makes for peak breathability; I’ve found my Novas the easiest to wear without socks.

See Also: Meermin’s Sway Loafers, the Most Casual Ones

Meermin has since released their most American loafer last, called the Sway, which I’d recommend if you want the most casual loafer from this brand.

I grabbed a pair in brown suede and while the Nova fit me really well, the Sway is probably my favorite Meermin loafer because it has the roomiest toe and the most casual look — and I don’t dress up.

Like I said earlier, Meermin’s footwear tends to be pretty slim because that’s how Europeans like their fits, and the guy at their New York store told me the Sway loafer is a direct response to Americans’ complaints that their loafers are too slim.

Just note that while the Sway loafers are the best for casual wear, they’re lined with sheepskin so as to give them more volume and structure — which means that while they still have leather soles, the Sway loafers won’t be quite as breathable as the unlined Nova loafer.

How Meermin’s Loafers Are Made

So why all the hubbub about these loafers? Let me count the reasons.

The Leathers

There are other inexpensive loafer brands out there, but not with the leathers that Meermin has. Enthusiasts know there are good and bad tanneries out there, and while a lot of brands don’t name where they source their leathers from, Meermin does. (Well, except for their Shell Cordovan.)

When they’re making dressy shoes, they use box calf from France’s Tannerie du Puy, which is universally considered among the best sources of the world’s dressiest leather. Tannerie d’Annonay is another French producer that’s about as well known, and they’re both owned by the same company (Hermes). 

(OK, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that Germany’s Weinheimer might be the world’s best when it comes to black box calf, which they use at Carmina and Bridlen.)

Meanwhile, it’s a big deal that the suede on most of the Nova loafers comes from Charles F Stead, universally considered the best suede producer on Earth. That’s why I visited them; seriously, they’re undisputed.

That said, the suede on my Ron tassel loafers comes from Italy’s Sciarada, a respected facility that focuses on suede as well. 

The Construction 

The loafers are good value because of the quality of the leather and the fact that they’re Goodyear welted. That’s a way of making footwear that’s very durable, water resistant, and can be resoled as many times as you like.

Loafers at this price point are more likely to be cemented (ie, the sole is glued on like a sneaker) or Blake stitched, which is lighter and more flexible than a Goodyear welt and can also be resoled. You’re just a bit less likely to find a cobbler who can resole a Blake stitch, and you can’t resole them quite as many times.

I still love Blake stitched loafers, don’t get me wrong. The sole’s way less likely to come off than on a sneaker, or something cemented. Just note that Blake stitches are cheaper to make than the tougher Goodyear welt, so distinguishing between them is important when assessing Meermin’s value.

Sizing Meermin’s Loafers

• Meermin uses UK sizing, so:
• Subtract 1.5 from your Brannock size; that’s probably two whole sizes from your sneakers
• The Sway loafers are a half size smaller than my Nova and Ron loafers

This part is hard! This is a European brand, and they use UK sizing. 

My sneakers are size 12US and my Meermin loafers are size 10UK. The Sway is roomier, so I went down to a 9.5UK.

First off, you need to find out your Brannock size. That’s the device they use to measure your foot at the shoe store. Go and pretend you’re shopping for Nikes and get sized, because I’ve never met anyone who actually knew what their Brannock, or “true”, or “American” size is. Guys usually call their sneaker size their shoe size, but sneakers run small, so the size will be higher. 

To put it simply: my Brannock size is 11.5 US. I usually wear size 12 US in sneakers, size 11 US in most boots, and 10.5 US in many loafers.

In UK sizing, which Meermin uses, I went with a 10 UK for the Ron and Nova loafers, and a 9.5 UK for the roomier Sway. I have a low instep so I would have probably had trouble with a 10 in the Sway, but if you have a medium or high instep you might prefer the extra room of getting the same size as the others.

A Tip for Loose Loafers

Note that I’m a big fan of these suede tongue pads to help loose loafers fit better; they cost ten bucks and saved me from a loose fit countless times. Way better than heel fillers.

Meermin’s Price (Compared to Competitors)

Unless you’re getting cordovan uppers, Meermin’s loafers cost about $215. 

I’ve told you they’re great value, which they achieve by making them in Shanghai. But here’s how Meermin stacks up to other brands I own that you can research. I’ve reviewed most of them (they’re linked) and these are all Goodyear welted as well, unless stated otherwise.

• Astorflex ($250): Unnamed tannery, less durable construction, made in Italy.
• Allen Edmonds ($450): Similar leathers, made in America.
• Grant Stone (~$400): Similar leathers, also made in China, albeit with a heavier and more durable build. 
• J FitzPatrick ($325): Tougher build, less fancy tanneries, made in Spain.
• Oak Street Bootmakers ($348): Blake stitched, made in America, genuine handsewn construction, and much more casual.
• Thursday Boot Co ($180): Blake stitched, less fancy tanneries, made in Mexico.

You’re not wrong if you think the lower price of some of these is worth the tradeoffs; all of these options are resoleable and awesome and I own them and wear them. I don’t keep loafers I don’t like.

But compared to Meermin, no one else is doing leathers this good with construction this durable at a better price. Even Indian brands like Blkbrd Shoemaker don’t make loafers with name brand leather at a lower price, though their loafers with local leather are cheaper.

OK, there’s an exception: Indonesia. Some, but not all brands from the region do loafers with more skillful construction (I’m talking hand welting, the predecessor to Goodyear welting that the Goodyear machine replaced in the 1880s). But you need to send them your foot measurements and wait months for them to be made. It goes without saying that returns are harder as well.

So it might be more accurate to say that no one else is doing leathers this good with construction this good at a better price, unless you’re willing to wait months for your loafers and you’re comfortable not having a speedy policy for returns — or any policy at all.

But I’m open to your suggestions for alternatives if you think I’ve missed someone important! 

How Meermin’s Loafers Have Changed 

I read a lot of reviews of these loafers in the research phase of this piece, and most of them were pretty old. That’s why I wanted to add this section to let you know what’s changed about this brand and their products.

They’re Easier to Buy

You used to have to get your shoes shipped over from Europe, making returns and exchanges a hassle — not something you want to deal with when buying footwear online, especially loafers. But now Meermin has a store in New York City and they ship from… some say they ship from the store, others say they come from a distribution center elsewhere in the US. The point is that today, these are now as easy to buy as any other US brand.

They’re Easier to Return and Exchange 

Returns have gotten easier as well, and they have a really cool policy: if you elect to pay a small surcharge at checkout ($2.98 right now), then your return will be “free” if you need it. I mean, it’s not free because you paid for it, but you get what I mean.

If you don’t pay that extra fee, then returning the shoes will cost you about $12. I think this is a super reasonable policy that lets you save money if you want to roll the dice on your fit — or if you already know what it is. And if you wind up needing to return your shoes and didn’t pay for the insurance, it’s not like the shipping cost is that expensive; given the size and weight of a shoebox, I often see returns costing $20 or more. 

They’ve Added More Lasts

Most brands will have one last for their loafers, meaning they’ll all fit the same way. If you don’t like the way they fit, you just have to pick another brand. 

But Meermin sells their loafers in three lasts right now: the dressier Ron, the versatile Nova, and the casual Sway.

I don’t like the too-tapered Ron tassel loafers but the Nova, while still pretty tapered, fits great. I’m really fond of the Sway last, though, because it’s nice and wide at the toe, which is atypical for a European brand. (Indeed, it took them over twenty years to get around to making this more American-friendly last, but they did it!) 

Wrapping Up: Yes, They’re Worth It

Listen: Meermin’s loafers are a really, really good buy. It’s fine if you don’t like to buy stuff that’s made in China, but if you have no issue with that, then there’s very little to quibble with here.

I spent a long time trying to find an unlined loafer that’s made with suede uppers and a leather sole because that’s simply the perfect build for a summer loafer, and Meermin delivered. And yet you can get lining, or a different sole, or a dressier upper if you prefer. 

In other words: after decades of finding their footing, Meermin has arrived.