7 Types of Loafers for Men (Horsebit vs Tassel vs Beefroll vs Handsewn)

Whether you’re looking for business casual shoes or something to slip on with shorts and a linen shirt, look no further than the loafer. But with so many types of loafers, how do you get the best ones?

Loafers are easy to dress up but casual enough to wear all summer. They’re a great option for guys who don’t want to stop wearing quality leather footwear because they’re in shorts or lightweight trousers, and they’re often more comfortable than boots and oxfords because of their different construction method. (More on that later.)

But there are more types of loafers than you might expect, and for this unsponsored article, we roped in shoe brand Beckett Simonon to show us seven different models. Getting a pair of loafers isn’t as easy as going on the internet and searching “loafers for men”—some are dressier, some are casual, some are ornamental, and so on.

From horsebit to tassel to beefroll to handsewn, we’ll break down each style and give you the lowdown on what makes them unique.

Types of Loafers: Evolution

Before sneakers became the go-to casual shoe for men, loafers were far more common — but the way they were worn could change dramatically depending on the decade and country you were in.

But if we’re talking about the history of this shoe, we need to discuss two pioneers: the casual Bass Weejun and the snappy Gucci loafer.

The Classic Casual Loafer

The loafer’s origins are debatable: many say their roots are in Native American moccasin-style shoes, while others say they’re in traditionanl, practical, fishermen’s footwear from Norway. Bass Weejuns went with the Norwegian angle. (Get it? Nor-Weejun?)

The birth of the loafer is attributed to US brand G.H. Bass, which emerged as a frontrunner in popularizing this style, positioning the Weejun as a symbol of American casual wear adorned by icons from James Dean to J.F.K.

Introduced in 1936, the Bass Weejun was initially targeted at men, but the style was so appealing that a women’s version was released just two years later.

Characterized by its comfort and informal style, the Weejun quickly became a staple in college fashion across the U.S., celebrated as the quintessential collegiate (or “preppy”) shoe from the 1940s through the late 1960s.

Wearing loafers without socks was often associated with chilled-out college students. This, combined with the odd tradition of placing pennies in the instep cutout, firmly established the style as a slightly rebellious but fun shoe for young adults.

From Dormroom to Boardroom: Gucci Loafers

Contrasting the casual slacker vibe of Weejuns, the Gucci loafer, introduced in 1953, brought an elegant Italian refinement to the loafer’s design.

By incorporating a metal strap in the shape of a horse’s snaffle bit and opting for black leather, Gucci helped redefine the loafer as suitable for more stylish settings, blending formality with the shoe’s inherent casualness.

This shift broadened the loafer’s appeal and cemented its status among the affluent jet set crowd, as evidenced by the “Gucci-gate” scandal involving Canadian Prime Minister Brian Mulroney’s extensive collection of Gucci loafers. The “horsebit” or “bit” loafer perhaps peaked in popularity as a dress shoe on Wall Street in the 1980s.

Despite occasional controversies, loafers have maintained a reputation as footwear for the upper classes, embodying a mix of Fitzgeraldian allure and European panache.

This blend of casual Americana with European style is why we have such a wide range of loafer styles, and, at least for snazzy dressers from the States, it can be tricky to pin down how to wear them.

What’s a Penny Loafer?

• A loafer and a penny loafer are the same thing
• Slip on, no laces, great for loaf’n around
• Moccasin-style upper
• Heeled, not flat, and often has a shank

If forced into a definition, penny loafers are slip-on shoes with a moccasin-like upper featuring a defined top and sides, rigid sole, and a low heel. If there’s no heel, it’s a slipper or a house shoe.

Unlike other slip-on shoes, like traditional moccasins or driving shoes, loafers usually have a more structured design with a distinct upper and sole.

Meanwhile, the rigid sole and heel add stability and support, making loafers a practical choice for walking when a shank-less slipper is less than ideal.

Not a one-trick pony, you can wear penny loafers with a casual outfit, like well-fitting jeans and a t-shirt or sweater.

If you’re looking for a comfortable and stylish shoe that you can slip on and go, loafers are the perfect choice. I like them when I’m traveling in the summer because they go with both shorts and slacks while providing enough support to wander.

It’s important to note that the type of leather and style of loafer will affect the dressiness. For example, a polished black calfskin or Shell Cordovan are more formal than suede.

One of the most iconic images associated with the penny loafer is that of the Ivy League style. In the 1950s and 1960s, penny loafers symbolized preppy East Coast elites, particularly on college campuses. Young men wore these types of loafers with khaki pants, button-down shirts, and blazers.

Beckett Simonon’s Roy is a classic penny loafer with a traditional penny strap across the vamp. It’s classy enough to dress up, but not super formal. If you’re looking for something more ready for suit…

The Cohen is your better bet for a loafer you can dress up. It has a sleeker, more elegant shape that pinches slightly at the waist, making it the perfect choice for a casual but dressier shoe.

The Chunkier Loafer

The “chunky loafer” is another variation on the penny loafer that has become increasingly common in recent years. The Fuentes is more subdued than some of the chunky-to-the-point-of-avant-garde options out there. But if you’re looking for something bolder than these, we definitely recommend looking at Koio’s Arezzo.

Beefroll Penny Loafers

A beefroll penny loafer features a distinctive roll of leather around the edge of the shoe’s vamp (the shoe’s upper that covers the toes). Shoemakers stitch together two pieces of leather to make the roll, and it earns its name by bringing to mind beef roast that’s been wrapped up in twine for cooking.

The beefroll makes the loafer more casual than a classic penny loafer. A good rule of thumb is that the “chunkier” a shoe, the more casual — the more narrow, slim, flat, or almond-shaped, the more formal.  

The Genuine Handsewn Loafer

Handsewn loafers look similar, but are wildly different in the way they’re made. If it’s called “genuine handsewn” then it’s essentially made upside down: imagine standing on a single piece of leather and wrapping it up and over your foot, stitching it together at the top.

This means there are no seams or edges on the bottom or sides of the loafer, which improves comfort and helps the leather conform to the shape of your foot with time like nothing else. (See our visit to a factory that makes boots this way in Maine.)

Because the moc stitch is not decorative on these loafers, you can often spot a handsewn moc by the more pronounced “puckering” along those stitches. They tend to have flatter and less structured toes. For these reasons, it might be a little harder to dress a handsewn loafer all the way up to a suit and tie.

But handsewn loafers pair well with khakis and a polo shirt for a classic, preppy look or a sports coat and dress pants for a business casual occasion.

The Tassel Loafer

Tassel loafers originated in the United States in the 1950s. New England shoemaker Alden often get credit for popularizing this style.

They peaked in popularity during the 1980s, particularly on Wall Street, where businessmen wore them with suits. I often compare them to wingtips because they started casual, appeared in more formal dress in the late 20th century, and then wound up somewhere in the smart casual and business casual categories.

You can wear them with jeans and a sweater to add some class or with chinos and a blazer to add a playful touch.

But, it’s important to note that the leather matters with loafers.

Beckett Simon’s Bernard is a good example of this style, made with a wholecut upper and subtle laces weaving in and out of the collar that “tie” the shoe together.

Available in seven different leather options, including two suedes, ththise tassel loafer is a stylish option for any guy looking to add a little “oomph” to an otherwise plain outfit. 

The Horsebit Loafer

The horse-bit loafer is one of the most iconic and recognizable types of loafers.

This design element became synonymous with “Gucci loafers” and quickly gained popularity across the Atlantic, worn by Peter Sellers and Francis Ford Coppola in the 1970s and 80s.

Initially, the horsebit loafer was a casual shoe, but, like the tassel loafer and the wingtip, it eventually became more acceptable in dressier settings.

Again, like the tassel loafer, it also became very common on Wall Street in the 1980s but gained more of a reputation as the greasy finance bro shoe, perhaps because of its sharp-edged, chrome look and the Gucci brand.

The Eriksen Loafer one of their two takes on this look, and with the more structured toe — and the fact that it isn’t handsewn, so the moc stitching is neater — this is the one to dress up.

The Beaumont is their second horsebit loafer, differing from the Eriksen with its more conspicuous moc stitching, flatter toe, and “beef roll” style strap (notice the strap on the middle of the shoe “bunches” at its perimeters). All of these elements come together to make a slightly more casual bit loafer.

Kiltie Loafers

Kiltie loafers feature a fringed leather tongue or tassel on the vamp, referred to as a “kiltie.”

The kiltie helps keep dirt and debris from getting inside the shoe, but it has since become a popular decorative element. Kiltie loafers can range from casual to dressy, depending on the leather and sole used, but remember that they’re a little ostentatious even on black loafers, so take that into account when making your purchase.

They’re best suited for guys who don’t mind the descriptor “flashy,” as they make for a stylish alternative to traditional penny or tassel loafers.

Which Types of Loafers are Formal or Business Professional?

There’s a lot of debate here, and the answer depends on several factors: 

1. Leather: The type of leather can play a role in how dressy or casual the loafers appear. Cordovan loafers are the most formal, while suede loafers are the least formal. Black leather is dressy, tan usually isn’t.
2. Volume: The volume of the loafers can also affect their formality. Roomy, voluminous loafers like the Fuentes above are more casual. Sleek loafers with a slimmer profile, such as the Cohen, are generally more dressy.
3. Sole: The type of sole can also play a role in the formality of loafers. Chunky lug soles are more casual. Flat leather soles, however, are more versatile, and you can dress up or down depending on the occasion.
4. Country/Region: The cultural norms surrounding loafers can also impact their formality. In England, for example, it’s much less common to see loafers worn with a suit than in the United States.

Wrapping Up: Types of Loafers for Men

Loafers are a classic shoe style that has remained popular for decades, and for good reason. They offer a versatile and comfortable option for both casual and formal occasions. They’re also just easy to take off and put on, a luxury that men don’t enjoy with their footwear as often as women.

Whether you prefer the sleek look of a dressy cordovan loafer or the ruggedness of a chunky lug-soled loafer, there is a style out there for everyone.