Bridlen Shoes: Inside India’s First Goodyear Welted Shoe Brand

Chennai, South India — where Bridlen Shoes is rewriting the book on high-quality, Goodyear welted footwear. (That’s a way of making footwear that’s durable and resoleable, but this company is using this technique in ways we’ve never seen before.)

Described as India’s first brand to use this construction method, Bridlen combines traditional craftsmanship with innovations unique to their approach, setting them apart from brands in Europe and the U.S. — even before you see the price. (Yes, it’s low, but we don’t want to lead with that because they’re really well made.)

The video above is what you want to watch: a deep dive into what makes Bridlen exceptional, from world-class leather sourcing (all the big tanneries are here) to no-glue lining, no-stretch hand lasting, and a hybrid construction that combines the benefits of Goodyear welts with the even more old fashioned hand welt. You’ll see what we mean.

World-Class Leathers: Bridlen’s Direct Sourcing from Top Tanneries

When it comes to leather, Bridlen spares no expense, sourcing from some of the world’s most prestigious tanneries that meet the demands of even the most discerning enthusiasts. Here are some standout leathers they use:

• Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan from Japan: With a smooth, durable finish, shell cordovan is one of the most sought-after leathers, and Bridlen opts for Japan’s Shinki Hikaku — the hardest to find, but considered by many as the best.
  
• CF Stead suede from England: Bridlen’s Janus calf suede, sourced from Charles F. Stead, offers a luxurious, buttery texture that gives their shoes a refined look and feel. From dressy to rugged, CF Stead makes more kinds of suede than you thought imaginable. For more, see our visit to C.F. Stead.
  
• Weinheimer Box Calf from Germany: As one of the most durable and high-quality box calf leathers in the world, Weinheimer leather is a favorite among high-end shoe and boot brands.
  
  One of the best known European brands that specializes in dozens of kinds of calfskin is Carmina — and Weinheimer is used for their best known boots.

Bridlen also uses leather from Chicago’s Horween and Italy’s Maryam.

Bridlen’s access to these premium leathers is made possible by sourcing in bulk and importing directly a few times each year. Using “big name leathers” like this is one way Bridlen silences skeptics who assume Indian shoes won’t be so great — but there’s a lot more going on here than the uppers.

Hybrid Construction: Combining Goodyear Welting with Hand Welting Techniques

While Goodyear welted shoes are very durable, most use a canvas rib attached to the insole with glue, which can limit flexibility and gives it a failure point: if the glue comes unstuck, it’s expensive to fix.

(To be fair, this is very unlikely — but if you’re getting one pair of shoes, especially if they’re boots you’re taking into the wild, it can be information worth knowing.)

Bridlen’s unusual approach combines elements of both Goodyear and hand welting by replacing the rib with a carved leather channel directly under the insole. That’s the biggest practical difference with hand welting: no canvas rib. Bridlen takes that element of hand welting but stitches through the channeled insole with a Goodyear welt machine.

Why It Matters: This results in a build that marries the efficiency of machine welting with the durability of hand welting. In other words, the structural integrity and sleek look that’s achievable with the hand welt combined with the affordability and scale of a Goodyear welt operation.

(It’s a little pricier to train the craftsmen in this rare approach so we can’t say it’s exactly the same cost as Goodyear welts, but it’s far closer to it than the laborious and time consuming hand welting that Goodyear welt machines were invented to replace.)

“3D Attachment”: Gentler Lasting

Bridlen also lasts their shoes differently.

Normally, this kind of footwear is made by stitching together the pieces of the shoe upper and then stretching that upper over a last either with a machine or, in higher end brands, by hand lasting. Especially when hand lasting, the craftsperson needs an intimate understanding of leather to know which pieces of the hide stretch and don’t stretch in the right places.

At Bridlen, the upper is stitched together on the last instead of on a table, so the leather gets stretched much less.

“On a last, there are different dimensions: what we call a ‘positive’ dimension and a ‘negative’ dimension,” explains Affan Mohammed, Bridlen’s resident shoemaker. “When a shoemaker lasts around the corner of the upper, for example, the dimension changes. When that’s done, the upper takes the shape of the last itself. But if you were to do this process on a flat surface, you would only get one dimension.”

By stitching together (or ‘closing’) the upper on a last, you’re introducing the shape to the leather earlier in the process.

“This also helps to keep the originality of the leather, the ‘touch’ of the leather as it was meant to be, intact,” adds Affan.

Breathable Linings Without Glue

Yet another unusual approach to shoemaking is the lining.

If a shoe is lined, it’s achieved with an awful lot of glue between the upper leather and the lining. I always thought that was the cost of doing business, but Bridlen worked out how to avoid that layer of glue — which lowers breathability — with what they call a “floating lining” technique.

The Floating Lining Technique: Bridlen’s shoes are made by stitching the upper and the lining together, allowing both layers to “float” against each other. Affan likened their technique to the “floating canvas” method used for high end suit jackets versus the “fused lining” method. Glue is used in the uppers, but only along the edges; it’s not spread across the entire lining, which is normal.

“If you use glue like that, it just make the leather hard,” says Affan. “It doesn’t allow for the main property of leather, which is breathability. There’s no point using leather upper and lining if you’re just going to glue the whole thing in between!”

Enhanced Comfort: This glue-free lining makes Bridlen’s shoes especially breathable, allowing air to flow more freely and helping feet stay comfortable and cool even in warmer climates.

When someone’s deciding between lined and unlined shoes or boots, the decision is weighed like this: lining feels nicer against my feet and gives it more structure, but unlined is more breathable.

Bridlen found a third option, and the combination of lining without glue and lasting with minimal leather stretching and the hybrid Goodyear welt design all make for a shoe that’s easier to break in.

Crafting Each Shoe with Attention to Detail

Bridlen’s meticulous approach to each step of the shoemaking process showcases their commitment to quality. Here’s a closer look:

• Leather Cutting, or “Clicking”: This process isn’t just about cutting out leather shapes. Bridlen’s artisans consider the leather grain, direction, and any defects, ensuring each cut maximizes durability and aesthetic appeal. Experienced workers avoid growth marks or nicks, which can affect the shoe’s long-term wear.
• 3D Lasting Technique: Unlike most factories where the shoe upper is sewn flat and later stretched over a last, Bridlen attaches and stitches the upper directly on a 3D last. This allows them to shape the upper more naturally, reducing strain on the leather and enhancing comfort and durability.
• Oak Bark Tanned Leather Outsoles: Bridlen’s soles are crafted from J.F.J. Baker oak bark leather, which undergoes a lengthy pit-tanning process lasting 12 to 18 months. This old-world tanning method, using cold pits, preserves the leather’s natural fiber structure, resulting in a sole that is as durable as it is flexible.

Final Thoughts: Bridlen Shoes — Tradition Meets Innovation

Bridlen is redefining the standards for high-quality, Goodyear welted footwear in India and worldwide. From the world’s finest leathers to their hybrid construction, glue-free lining technique, 3D lasting, combination leather-and-steel shanks, and more, Bridlen has created a product that competes with top global brands but at a price point that’s accessible for more buyers.

 Explore their collection at Bridlen.com.