Exploring Meermin’s Best Boots In Their New York City Store

Today, we’re discussing Meermin, a Spanish brand that pulls off an unbelievably rare feat: Goodyear welted footwear with leathers from the world’s most revered tanneries that almost all cost under $300 — they even have hand welted shoes and shell cordovan boots for under $380.

We haven’t covered them as much as we should have, so we visited their New York City store to chat with their manager, Kyle Rhoads. Below, he gives an explainer on what makes this brand such a favorite among boot enthusiasts worldwide.

What’s So Special About Meermin?

• Meermin offers accessible, high-quality Goodyear welted boots at an unusually low price point
• They manufacture boots in Shanghai while sourcing materials from Europe
• The brand sells directly to consumers, with only three physical stores

When we asked Rhoads how to describe Meermin to someone unfamiliar with the brand, he said, “I would say that it’s our accessibility that’s our strongest suit for us. Obviously, the big headline is the price point [for Goodyear welted boots], but what follows is the craftsmanship that goes into that.”

Meermin is known for helping boot enthusiasts get finely crafted shoes at a price point that’s virtually unheard of in the category. How do they achieve such a low price point? By manufacturing their products in Shanghai (for 15 years and counting—the brand is actually 22 years old in total).

While the factories may be in China, none of the materials are. Most of the uppers are sourced from Europe: think French-sourced box calf leather, Italian suede, kudu from England’s CF Stead, and other fine leathers.

The brand does not sell wholesale (which lowers the price) and they have just three locations worldwide: one is in New York, Madrid, and Paris.

However, the online presence of the brand is huge.

What Kinds of Shoes Does Meermin Make?

• Meermin specializes in oxford shoes, loafers, and casual boots
• Their wholecut Chelsea boots are considered the brand’s “gold standard”

Meermin makes a wide variety of footwear, with an emphasis on oxford shoes, loafers, and casual boots.

Rhoads says the wholecut Chelseas are the “gold standard” of the brand.

“This is what we’ve had for the longest, around six or seven years, maybe even longer than that—what I call our bread and butter,” he says. Fashioned from one single piece of leather, they’re built to conform well to the foot and start at just $230. “We have, I think, about 26 current models just in this ‘Hiro’ last alone. It’s sleek, sort of indicative of that Spanish style.”

What’s So Great About Wholecut Leather Boots?

• Wholecut leather boots offer increased durability, fewer weak points, less foot irritation, and mold to the foot

So, what does wholecut (also stylized as “whole cut”) leather mean? Why is it so desirable for so many people?

“Wholecut” or “whole cut” means that the bootmaker uses one piece of leather, so there is only one stitch point along the entire upper.

Practically every Chelsea on the market will have seams under the elastic where two pieces of leather meet, but when it’s wholecut it means less fewer pieces of leather are used, it’s more durable because it has fewer stitches and therefore fewer weak points, there are fewer seams to irritate the foot, and many find that the boot does a better job of conforming to the foot.

It’s also more expensive, not just because it’s a more difficult lasting operation but because the shoemaker can’t use smaller or scrap pieces of leather — it’s got to all be done right with one piece.

The result is a boot with a very smooth upper that has incredible durability and wears beautifully with time.

Lighter Goodyear Welts: A Look at Meermin’s Ultraflex System

• Meermin’s Ultraflex construction combines Goodyear welting with high-compression foam
• It features a removable 3mm memory foam insole and lightweight cleated sole
• The result is a remarkably lightweight, comfortable shoe with a suspension-like feel

The company is also particularly proud of their Ultraflex construction, launched about four years ago. It means the shoe or boot is still conventionally Goodyear-welted, but they’ve replaced the cork filling with a high compression foam and incorporated a removable three-millimeter memory foam insole.

Combine with a lightweight cleated sole — about half the weight of a traditional one — and you’ve got a very airy, very suspension-like feel at the bottom end, Rhoads says.

What About Meermin’s Suede and Leather Sourcing?

• Despite low prices, Meermin uses high-quality leather from renowned tanneries
• All suedes and kudu leather come from C.F. Stead, a leader in these materials
• Boxcalf leather is sourced from France’s Tannerie D’annonay, used in both dressy and rugged boots

When folks hear their prices and hear that they’re still Goodyear welted, their first instinct is to assume that the leather’s poor quality or from no-name tanneries. (That’s what we did.)

But it’s not the case. Always admirably transparent, Meermin makes sure to not just be clear about where their boots are made but also where the leather’s from.

All of their suedes and kudu are from C.F. Stead, the world’s leader in these categories. “We’re using big name tanneries,” Rhoads says. “Our Kudu [leather] is also CF Stead as well.”

They also source their boxcalf leather France’s Tannerie D’annonay, one of the most well-regarded makers of boxcalf in the world. Boxcalf is often found on very dressy boots, but as we’ll go into below, Meermin mixes things up and uses this very durable and flexible leather on their rugged hiking boots as well.

What is Kudu leather?

• Kudu leather comes from African antelopes and is naturally soft, flexible, and durable
• Each pair of kudu leather boots is unique, often showing natural marks and scars
• Meermin offers kudu leather footwear at around $270, making it an affordable exotic leather option

Kudu is a species of Sub-Saharan African antelope. Because they’re Sub-Saharan, they need to keep cool as opposed to keeping warm, so their skin retains moisture instead of expelling it. The result is a leather that maintains softness and flexibility without needing as much care as other boot leathers. Rhoads calls it “the most durable material out of everything that we sell.”

Because the animals live in the wild, and because the leather isn’t very processed, every pair of boots made from Kudu leather will look unique, often bearing scrapes and scars.

“If you’re cool with that —± and a lot of people, in fact, find that extra cool — then kudu is a really cool material,” says Rhoads. “And not crazy expensive, like a lot of weird, exotic leathers.”

Meermin’s kudu leather footwear sells at a price point around $270.

Meermin’s Hiking Boots

• Meermin’s hiking boot collection is unexpectedly popular despite the brand’s focus on dressier footwear
• Their hiking boots feature the Ultraflex system and are available in soft grain, or full grain box calf leather

Surprisingly for a brand that emphasizes office footwear, Meermin’s hiking boot collection is very popular.

“Design wise, these are sort of the biggest departure [for us],” says Rhoads. “We’re really more traditional, but we wanted to dip our toe into what’s fashionable today. And this is our take on hiking boots, and they’ve done quite well for us.”

Meermin’s leather hiking boots feature the Ultraflex system described above and have a lightweight but durable construction. They’re available in a soft grain or a full grain box calf, and some have embossed kudu leather tongues.

The brand is unusually daring with their hiking boots. Most are made with box calf, a famously dressy leather typically seen on, say, really nice Oxfords.

Why use boxcalf for rugged, outdoorsy hiking boots? “It blends with our traditional sense,” says Rhoads. “So it’s rugged with a dressy twist, if you will.”

Meermin’s Signature Boot: The Rod Last

• The Rod last line offers a balance of casual and dressy silhouette
• Rod last boots come in lace-up or Chelsea styles with various sole options, including recessed studs and Commando
• The Negon last collection features a wider, flatter toe box for a more casual workboot look

Striking that perfect balance between casual and dressy, the Rod last line is a collection of “go-to boots” from Meermin. Available in lace-up or Chelsea style and with a variety of sole options, including recessed studs or luggy Commando, boots made on the Rod last are favorites for guys who need versatility from their boots — not too chunky, not too sleek.

“It’s a pretty conventional workman’s boot,” Rhoads says. There’s nothing too out of the ordinary when it comes to this.

As far as boots from Meermin go, you’ll also want to check out the Negon Last collection, the second iteration of the brand’s workboot. The Negon Last is wider and flatter in the toe box, which gives it as a more casual look.

Meermin’s Classic Collection vs. Linea Maestro

• Meermin’s Classic Collection offers lower-cost, quality footwear in versatile styles
• The Classic line includes Oxfords, loafers, boots, bluchers, and buckles
• The Linea Maestro collection features high-end construction and rare materials, including hand-welted Oxfords and Shell cordovan

Meermin’s Classic Collection is where you’ll find their lower cost footwear, which, it needs to be said, is still very good. The line includes its more casual or sartorially versatile Oxfords, loafers, boots, bluchers, and buckles.

The Linea Maestro is where you’ll find the footwear with more rare or high end construction and materials like hand welted Oxfords, Norwegian welted boots, and Shell cordovan.

Check out our pick from the Linea Maestro collection below:

Want to check these shoes out for yourself in person? Visit the Meermin store at 123 Mercer Street in Soho.