Denim vs Canvas for Pants: Pros and Cons of Each
There’s no doubt the kings of casual pants are denim jeans. After that, it’s probably chinos. But there’s another kind of casual pant that’s also cotton, also durable, and also became really widespread in 19th-century workwear.
We’re talking about canvas, and yes, it is used for more than your beloved Chuck Taylor Converse. Call it denim’s right-hand man. This is an excellent option for casual pants — not least because it pairs so well with denim in an outfit.
We recently traveled to Amsterdam and sat down with Lennaert Nijgh, founder of Benzak Denim Developers, to learn the differences between denim and canvas regarding how they breathe, fade, fit, drape, and more.
Note: There are plenty of denim and canvas jackets out there, but we’re mostly focusing on jeans and canvas pants in this piece.

Practical Takeaways: Denim vs Canvas
TL;DR? We’ll put these two fabrics head to head for your viewing ease.
Denim
Pros:
- Ages beautifully with fades and softening over time.
- Has more give throughout the day, making it comfortable for extended wear.
- Generally more breathable, especially in comparable weights.
- Fit improves with wear.
Cons:
- With raw denim, you must be mindful of indigo dye rubbing off.
- Tends to stretch with wear, so sizing can be frustrating.
- More firmly situated in culture as a casual fabric, so there are more rules about when it’s acceptable to wear
Canvas
Pros:
- Very strong and longlasting.
- Uniform color offers a cleaner aesthetic.
- Typically doesn’t stretch with wear (so sizing is easier)
- Great casual alternative to denim (that also pairs well with denim)
- Unlikely to fade dramatically with wear.
Cons:
- Does not stretch or soften very much over time.
- Stiffer drape that takes longer to break in.
- Attracts lint and debris more easily.
- Unlikely to fade much with wear — which you might prefer!
Denim and Canvas: The Main Differences
- Canvas has a plain weave with a crosshatched look, while denim has a twill weave with diagonal lines.
- Canvas is more uniform in color, whereas denim fades over time due to its indigo dye.
There is a lot to cover here, but I think the main difference between the two is that canvas is a plain weave, and denim is a twill weave.
If you look at the taxonomy of cotton fabrics, that’s the very first division: plain weave and twill weave. (And satin weave, but we’re not getting into that today.)
Lennaert explains, “If I put these two fabrics in front of anybody and asked what the difference is, the first thing that they’d point out is that the surface of denim is characterized by diagonal lines, while canvas has more of a crosshatched look.”
It’s also worth noting that canvas is typically more uniform in color. Denim is usually a mixture of indigo and ecru (or undyed) yarns. That’s one reason why the color of jeans changes more reliably with wear.
Since denim is vastly more popular, it’s worth remembering it also comes with more cultural baggage: preconceived notions about where you can wear jeans, what they signal, and so on.
It might be fair to say that, in general, just because people aren’t as used to seeing them, canvas pants might be more versatile.
Are Denim and Canvas Both Cotton?
- Both fabrics are typically made of 100% cotton but can be blended with other materials.
- “Denim” and “canvas” usually refer to pure cotton unless otherwise specified.
Yes, both denim and canvas are typically made of 100% cotton. Both can be blended with other materials, of course: you’re undoubtedly familiar with stretch denim, which combines cotton with a synthetic material like elastane or polyurethane. Stretch canvas pants also exist and are especially popular among tradesmen.
You’ll also find denim and canvas mixed with fibers like linen or hemp — but unless otherwise stated, the words “denim” and “canvas” refer to 100 percent cotton fabrics.
Canvas: A Plain Weave
- Characterized by a cross-hatched look
- Tends to be lighter weight than denim
- Woven more tightly, so it stretches less
- Also called a “1 x 1” weave
Before everyone wore denim to work, they wore canvas, the O.G. workwear fabric. Comprised of a straightforward, perpendicular pattern of threads that intersect at right angles, each weft (horizontal) yarn alternates over and under the warp yarn of each row. In general, plain weaves are known for being hard-wearing and strong, and canvas is no different.
Other Plain Weaves
- Duck canvas is a term for particularly strong and tightly woven canvas, and it has a history that’s even older than blue jeans. “The word ‘duck’ is derived from the Dutch word doek, which means ‘cloth,'” explains Lennaert. “If you’re looking for workwear quality, look for duck canvas.”
- Chambray is more common in shirts. Chambray has blue yarns in one direction and white in the other, making for a fabric that’s closer in appearance to denim than other plain weaves.
Further Reading
Denim vs Chambray – Which Fits Your Needs?
Interested in the intricacies of denim and chambray fabrics? Learn more →
Denim: A Twill Weave
- Recognizable by the diagonal pattern of the weave
- Tends to be a heavier weight than plain weaves
- Has more “give” to it than the more tightly woven canvas
Slightly more complex than plain weaves, twill weaves have a diagonal pattern on the surface that comes from the offset warp threads.
The fundamental kinds of weaves are 1 x 1, 2 x 1, and 3 x 1. If you guessed that plain weaves are 1 x 1, you’re right. Denim is typically 2 x 1 or 3 x 1. It gets this name Because the warp thread passes two or three times under the weft before it crosses over it one time.
“Most people own a pair of chinos,” explains Lennaert. “If you look at those, you’ll see diagonal lines because they are also a twill weave. Denim is a type of twill weave. Not all twill is denim, but all denim is twill“.
People still argue as to what makes denim denim, but a big differentiator between denim and the twill used on your chinos is that the warp and weft of denim are usually different colors. Turn your jeans inside out, and they’ll suddenly be very light colored because there’s more of the warp on one side of the fabric than the other.
Other Twill Weaves
- Chinos might be the second most common casual cotton pant and they’re also made from twill — but unlike denim, it’s more uniform in appearance.
- Moleskin is a brushed twill that feels much softer but is still very hardwearing; it’s perhaps best known on chore coats.
- Melton wool is a kind of wool woven in twill form. It’s very dense and wind-resistant, often used in peacoats.
- Tweed is another kind of wool twill: hard-wearing but lighter than melton wool, it’s well known as a fabric for sport coats.
Further Reading
Canvas vs Twill – Is One More Durable?
We put together a quick primer explaining the differences between canvas and twill.
Learn more →
Denim vs Canvas: Is One More Comfortable?
- Canvas’s tighter weave makes it stiffer and less stretchy, leading to a fit that is generally considered less comfortable than denim.
- Denim stretches with wear, conforming to the body over time, making it softer and more comfortable.
Because of its tighter weave, canvas doesn’t stretch as much as denim with wear.
When buying jeans, you’re usually told to get them snug because they’ll stretch with wear. Canvas has less give to it, so you should buy your correct size. That makes it easier to size but also makes it stiffer — and most would consider it a little less comfortable compared to jeans.
Made of 9oz duck selvedge canvas with brass hardware, these hardwearing pants are earth-toned and built to last
Do Denim and Canvas Fit the Same?
- Denim conforms to the body, stretches at stress points, and softens over time.
- Canvas retains its shape, breaks in less, and remains stiffer.
Assuming you’re comparing two pants with identical measurements? After a year of wear, the denim will fit you a little better because it has more give to it, stretches more at stress points, and conforms to your body’s shape.
“Canvas will not drape as nicely as a pair of denim would, in the end,” says Lennaert. “When you start with a pair of raw denim jeans, they are completely stiff as well, but over time, the denim gets softer — much softer than canvas would.”
So, if you haven’t had time to get to know a pair of canvas pants firsthand, think of how it feels to wear a newer pair of jeans that haven’t yet been broken in.
Canvas is cool and very durable, but don’t expect it to develop the gentle hang of an old pair of jeans.
Breathability
- Denim is more breathable due to its looser weave.
- Canvas’s tight weave offers better wind resistance but less airflow.
Does canvas’s tighter weave mean denim is more breathable? Well, yes.
The interlocking threads of a plain weave have less space between one other. It’s great for toughness, but not so great for air sneaking through.
That said, the question of breathability also depends on the weight of the fabric: 9-ounce canvas and 13-ounce denim are pretty comparable in terms of breathability, and those are probably going to be the weights of your average canvas and denim pants, respectively. It’s rare to find canvas pants over 10 ounces and denim jeans that are under 10 ounces.
But assuming you’ve got identical weight fabric, denim’s the more breathable one.
Wind Resistance
Canvas’s tight weave means less air gets through it, but you can word that more positively as “wind resistance”.
This is why canvas is more popular in the workwear world for jackets (i.e., the iconic Carhartt) and in applications where it will be worn in more demanding weather conditions.
Denim vs Canvas: Is One More Durable?
- Canvas is stronger per ounce due to its compact weave.
- Denim is typically sold in heavier weights, making practical durability differences negligible.
When it comes to the question of durability, things aren’t as straightforward as they might seem.
Yes, because canvas is a tighter weave it is more compact and tough. But like we said, canvas is usually sold as a thinner fabric than denim. (You need less cotton to get the job done with canvas.)
“It comes down to the construction of the weave,” says Lennaert. “[Canvas is] a much tighter weave, so it’s much more compact. That makes it a lot stronger, and this way, the fabric doesn’t have to be that heavy”.
Your average canvas pants are 9 ounces per square yard, while the average denim is 11 or 12 ounces per square yard. If we’re purely talking on a per ounce basis, canvas has denim beat fair and square. But practically speaking, the difference is probably negligible.
Denim vs Canvas: How Does the Fit Change With Wear?
- Denim conforms to the body, stretches at stress points, and softens over time.
- Canvas retains its shape, breaks in less, and remains stiffer.
We’re all in love with the way denim ages, as it gets softer, conforms to your individual body, stretches out at stress points, and fades. When it comes to canvas, things are a bit different.
Canvas takes more time to break in and remains a bit stiffer than denim. This is why lighter-weight canvas makes for great workwear pants. It doesn’t break in as much as denim because it’s tightly woven, but it’s quite durable.
Other Things to Consider
As someone who wears jeans and canvas pants, you should note that canvas’s velcro-y surface is more likely to pick up lint, hair, and junk. It’s not a big deal, I’ve just noticed that especially after having packed our canvas jeans at the bottom of our bag, I’ll be plucking fuzz out of the canvas throughout the day of its first wear.
Denim vs Canvas: Do they Both Fade?
- Denim fades dramatically over time due to indigo dye.
- Canvas rarely fades unless specially dyed, maintaining its uniform color.
In almost every case, canvas won’t fade like denim.
This is true even though the way denim fades doesn’t have much to do with it being a twill weave: it’s a result of how the fabric (or the yarn) is treated and dyed.
“Denim is typically indigo dyed. The properties of indigo are that it will fade over time. It gets light blue,” explains Lennaert. “Most canvas fabrics are not indigo dyed. They are either reactive dyed or vat dyed or basically any other type of color than indigo. They have a much higher color fastness, so they fade much less as opposed to a pair of indigo jeans”.
Even if you have identical pairs of blue and black jeans, the black will fade much more slowly because it’s probably sulfur dyed.
Overall, if you’re looking for that classic fade-over-time blue jean patina, you should generally stick with the denim.
Separated by country of origin, Benzak's denim is among the best. From selvedge, to neppy, to slubby (in a variety of fits) they have an option for every denimhead.
So Canvas Pants Don’t Fade?
Some brands sell indigo dyed canvas that does indeed fade like denim, and it’s very cool. Such fabrics are relatively rare, but on occasion you’ll find brands in the heritage space — you might even find them on sale at Benzak from time to time.
Some brands also achieve “canvas that patinas” by experimenting with different layers of dye and pigment to produce a color that changes in areas of high wear even when it’s not indigo dyed.
Conclusion
All in all, denim and canvas have both been worn for centuries, but canvas has been in its bigger brother’s shadow for too long. It doesn’t stretch out quite as much, but if you’re sick of not knowing how your jeans will fit after breaking them in, you’ll see that as a positive.
Finally, canvas doesn’t soften that much either, but that means it retains its protective workwear feel, and it’s the perfect fabric to pair with a denim shirt or denim jacket (if you’re averse to a Canadian tuxedo, anyway).
If you’re looking to build out your casual wardrobe and you don’t want to be just denim denim denim, you might have found the perfect complement to all that indigo.
Benzak Denim Developers sells both canvas and denim. Check out their website for canvas pants, shirts, and selvedge denim jeans.
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