How to Style a Chore Coat: A Guide to Workwear’s Most Versatile Jacket

The weather’s cooling down and you’re considering your lightweight jacket options: the denim jacket, the canvas jacket, maybe even the military field jacket… and for most guys, that’s about it. 

Those are solid picks that are basically fashion-proof (a.k.a. always in style), but let me suggest an often overlooked option in that category: the chore jacket. 

Simple and classic yet a bit unexpected, this lightweight coat might just be your best new fall friend. But how do you style it?

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What’s a Chore Coat?

Also called the French chore jacket, the chore coat has its origins in 19th century France, where it was worn by laborers, railroad engineers, and farmers. Thanks to its longer length, durable fabric, and lightweight design, the chore coat became a favorite among workers needing something practical yet comfortable.

The archetypal chore coat is blue — some say the origin of the term “blue collar” comes from this very garment. Over time, the French chore coat evolved and is now available in nearly every color and fabric, making it a versatile option for any wardrobe.

This coat’s utilitarian roots are evident in its roomy pockets, no-fuss structure, and loose, boxy fit. It’s intentionally casual and slouchy, and its timeless design and hardwearing fabric means you can wear it year after year as it gains character with age.

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Two Authentic Chore Coat Fabrics

Traditionally, chore coats are made from one of two durable cotton fabrics, and they’re both types of twill.

Moleskin

Moleskin is the best known material for chore coats, and it’s criminally underutilized everywhere else in menswear. You probably haven’t owned it before, and you should use this as your opportunity to try it.

This dense, cotton fabric dates back to medieval Europe, where it was used for workwear by farmers and hunters. It’s a curious beast because it has a soft, suede-like feel, but it’s very hardwearing. The fuzziness is because it’s brushed (like flannel) but the material is a tough cotton weave that’s warm and wind-resistant.

Pro tip: If it’s your first chore coat, go for moleskin—it’s the official fabric of the chore coat.

Drill

The other traditional fabric is drill. That’s also a durable, heavy duty twill, but it hasn’t been brushed, so the diagonal pattern (or “wales”) is more visible.

Drill is a little similar in texture to denim but closer in appearance to what your average chinos are made from. Drill fabric is often found in khaki pants and feels smooth to the touch while still retaining rugged durability.

See Also: Wool

It’s not one of the original fabrics, but the chore coat has been around long enough that wool versions have been cemented in the pantheon of great fabrics, especially if you’re trying to take one into dressier (or colder) environs.

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Top Chore Coat Brands to Explore

With so many options available, here are some standout brands for chore coats:

The Original Moleskin: Work Jacket from Le Mont Saint Michel

This French brand has been producing its flagship moleskin chore coat for over 100 years.

Most Versatile: Ojai Jacket from Taylor Stitch
Regularly available in seasonal colors and fabrics but best known for its organic cotton twill, Taylor Stitch’s Ojai has a slightly less boxy fit than most chore coats and is probably the market’s most accessible chore coat.

Wool Option for Office Wear: Boiled Wool Chore Blazer from Flint and Tinder
Made from 100% wool, this one borders on blazer, but it retains the unlined, unstructured build of a chore coat — and because it’s unlined, the wool insulates well and works in a variety of temperatures.

Luxury: Drake’s Chore Coat Collection
Just like there are thousand-dollar versions of jeans, the best known brand for really high end chore coats is Drake’s. If spending four figures is no barrier, check out their offerings in suede, melton wool, and tweed.

Widest Variety of Colors and Fabrics: Le Laboroureur’s Chore Coats
From blue denim to acid green to yellow wool, Le Laboureur is the best example of just how much you can get out of this style — and they retain that Made-in-France cachet.

Great Linen Chore Coat: Alex Crane’s Kite Coat The current kings of linen clothing offer this temperature-regulating take on the chore coat, with a summer-ready natural airy feel and texture that gets softer with each wash.

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3 Ways to Style a Chore Coat

One of the best things about chore coats is their versatility. Here’s how to style them for different occasions:

1. Workwear-Influenced Ways to Wear a Chore Coat

You may prefer classic workwear looks, with looser pants and work boots, or more modern workwear-inspired looks, so we’ll include both in this section.

Classic

For an authentic workwear look, you basically want looser fits with classic materials — try pairing your chore coat with raw denim jeans and boots.

Try a white t-shirt or henley under a chore coat for a timeless outfit. Opt for a relaxed fit in your jeans to complement the loose, boxy structure of the chore coat and chunkier boots.

Sample vintage workwear outfits:

1. A white henley from HNLY LA, raw denim jeans from Left Field NYC, and Red Wing’s Iron Ranger boots.
2. A chambray shirt from Proper Cloth with canvas pants from Grown and Sewn and boots from Thursday.

Modern

If you prefer less of a throwback look but appreciate the low key and unfussy vibe of workwear, plenty of brands have sprouted over the years to accommodate you. Consider pairing your chore coat with tapered jeans and more low profile, city-friendly boots like Thursday’s Captain boot.

Workwear is more about textures than patterns, logos, or innovative designs. It also leans on natural materials that are dense and hardwearing: twills like denim and chinos, plain weaves like canvas and chambray. The fits above balance the workwear aesthetic with a modern silhouette.

Sample workwear inspired outfits:

1. Red Wing’s Moc Oxford with canvas pants from Grown and Sewn and a denim shirt from Benzak.
2. Thursday’s Captain boot under Hiroshi Kato stretch jeans and a white tee from Teddy Stratford.
3. Red Wing Iron Rangers with chinos and a chambray shirt, both from Grown and Sewn.

2. Business Casual / Smart Casual Ways to Wear a Chore Coat

The chore coat can also be worn in a softer manner and many guys use them in place of a blazer, so let’s explore combining a workwear classic with business casual and smart casual looks.

The key is to pair it with another erstwhile workwear classic that’s now considered office appropriate: chinos. Navy, grey, or even white chinos can look great, especially if they come with a higher rise. The ideal shirt? The Oxford cloth button down. It’s got the exact same balance of hardwearing-yet-smart and casual-but-dressy that chinos and the right chore coat do.

As for footwear, lean on loafers or some suede derbies. You don’t want to get too formal by wearing oxfords.

Example outfits:

1. A white Oxford shirt from Flint and Tinder, high rise chinos from Merz B Schwanen, split toe derbies from Paraboot, and a briefcase from Frank Clegg.
2. Another Flint and Tinder Oxford, high rise chinos (custom made, sorry!) and suede Patnoflex loafers.
3. The same Flint and Tinder Oxford with their 365 chinos and Allen Edmonds loafers.

3. Casual and Modern

Never fear, you don’t need to dress up or throw back to wear a chore coat. If you want to go cozy and casual but also keep your outfit very “now,” there are plenty of ways to pair your roomy chore coat with easygoing sneakers. It’s like peanut butter and jelly.

Try loose jeans, a colorful crew neck, and Chuck Taylors or leather sneakers. This creates a relaxed, everyday vibe that works well with streetwear. For extra style points, look for chore coats in bold colors, like the options from Le Laboureur or AMI, and experiment with a pullover hoodie underneath — not a zip up, it’ll clash!

Sample streetwear outfits:

1. Wide leg jeans and white t-shirt from Left Field, Chuck 70 sneakers from Converse, glasses form Jacques Marie Mage.
2. Green canvas pants and red sweatshirt from Grown and Sewn, sneakers from Koio, beanie from Oak Street Bootmakers, glasses from Eyevan.

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Wrapping Up

Okay, let’s recap. The most classic chore coat fabric is indubitably moleskin, but a classic twill will never wrong you, and a wool option can add a dressier touch to your look. 

Since its origins are in workwear, chore coats feel the most natural when worn with fabrics that are hardwearing and, well, natural: cotton, leather, and wool. As the basis of a huge variety of apparel, these fabrics can be worn as loose and casual streetwear or dressed up to the office. If you’re thinking smart or business casual, go for chinos, oxford cloth, and loafers or derbies for a nice, consistent look.

The chore coat is just what your closet’s been missing: a historically significant, hardwearing, vintage-yet-modern fall jacket that’s ready to play nice with just about anything you throw at it.