Dr. Martens vs Solovair: The Great British Boot Off
Ever since I published my first review on Dr. Martens 1460 boots, I’ve been asked to compare them to those of another iconic British boot brand: Solovair. The internet is clamoring with questions about whether these seemingly similar footwear options are comparable—are they the same quality?
How does the construction hold up, brand vs. brand? If you’re on the hunt for quality boots with that cool grungy combat look, these two brands will inevitably surface. Both come out of an England factory, both are made of durable leather, and both even have that iconic pull tab.
So, if you’re trying to choose one pair between Solovair shoes and Dr. Martens boots, what’s the right pick for you? Let’s get into it and explore what makes these two boots—and each company’s shoes—similar and different and why you might prefer one over the other.
For starters, the boots are practically identical, but the two brands also share a very storied history.
Key Takeaways:
Both Dr. Martens & Solovair sell chunky-soled, glossy leather combat boots. Solovair’s a higher-quality and Made-in-England, Dr. Martens are more youthful, less expensive, and made overseas.
Similarities:
- 8 eyelets
- Glossy, corrected grain leather
- Bouncy rubber sole
- Vibrant pull tab
- Heat-bonded Goodyear welt construction
The differences:
- Solovair has glossier, thicker, slightly higher-quality leather
- Dr. Martens has yellow stitches
- Solovair is made in England. Docs are made overseas
- Dr. Martens cost $170, and Solovair is about $219
What Is Solovair?
You may be scratching your head as you compare a pair of Solovair boots to Dr. Martens: How can these two pairs of boots look so similar, offer such comparable styles, and both be made in England? It’s no coincidence!
Manufactured by NPS Shoes, Solovair—the name is a portmanteau of the phrase “Sole Of Air,” referring to their lightweight, comfortable foot feel—was actually the maker of Dr. Martens (aka Doc Martens) in Northamptonshire, England, for 35 years. Back then, the boots with the signature air cushion sole were sold under the license “Dr. Martens of Solovair.”
Solovair hasn’t really caught on in the United States the same way Dr. Martens has, but many consider Solovair the real Dr. Martens because when Dr. Martens moved most of its production to Asia, cutting ties with Solovair, Solovair didn’t stop manufacturing boots. Instead, the brand used its facility to make boots that are extremely similar to the Dr. Martens they used to make, but started selling them under the name Solovair.
Make sense? Dr. Martens stopped paying Solovair to make its boots so they could make them overseas, but Solovair just kept on making virtually identical boots with very similar features under a different name.
What’s Better? Solovair Vs. Dr. Martens
So which one is better? Here’s what we’re looking at:
The 1460's combat boot silhouette, combined with a cushy sole and trademark contrast welt stitching, has kept customers coming back for nearly 80 years.
Solovair Black Hi-Shine Derby Boots are made in England and provide wearers with a clean yet modern design. The silhouette is classic and the brand offers this boot in a myriad of leathers.
Wait, Why Not Compare Solovair With the “Made in England” Dr. Martens?
Dr. Martens is still designed in Camden Town, London, but while Dr. Martens does sell a British-made Dr. Marten, 99 percent of all the company’s boots are no longer made in England—they’re made in China, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. The flagship 1460 boot, the most iconic shoe in the brand’s product line, is actually made in Asia. Dr. Martens even says on its site that this made-in-Asia boot is “The original Dr. Martens boot.”
The 1460 is what the vast majority of people buy, and it’s the company’s principal product, so it makes the most sense to compare it to Solovair’s signature boot.
Dr. Martens vs. Solovair Aesthetic
- 8 eyelets
- Glossy, corrected grain leather
- Bouncy rubber sole
- Vibrant pull tab
The differences:
- Solovair is glossier
- Dr. Martens has yellow stitches
Let’s be honest: Both shoes are pretty similar, and they both have a cool, alternative, self-expressive style. They’re both made with a shiny, corrected-grain leather upper (meaning it’s been smoothed down to eliminate the grainy, skin-like appearance of full-grain leather).
However, the Solovair has a slightly glossier leather. They both have 8 pairs of eyelets, a bouncy rubber sole with slightly lifted heels, triple stitching along the sides, and single stitching at the counter and along the eyelets.
Take a look at just how aesthetically comparable these boots are below.
Where they differ, style-wise—and for now, we’re just talking about their exterior and what you see when you first look at the boots—is that the Solovairs have a slightly stubbier look to the toe, and the stitching is much more muted vs. Dr. Martens’ signature contrast stitching.
Some people don’t love the trademark bright yellow stitching on Dr. Martens, and they may find the more sober stitching style on the Solovairs to be more versatile. Then again, other people think the yellow stitching is almost the whole point of getting a boot like this.
The stitching along the sole actually serves different purposes on each boot, but first, let’s check the leather.
[Related: My list of The Best Boots for Men]
Dr. Martens vs Solovair Leather
- Dr. Martens from “South America or Asia”
- Solovair European tanneries and cattle
- Both smooth and glossy
- Solovair’s is thicker and more robust
Solovair has matte, greasy “Hi-Shine” leather, whereas the 1460s are more of a medium shine.
Dr. Martens doesn’t say a lot about the origin of its leather. When I called them up to find out, all they said was that it comes from “South America or Asia,” which is a pretty broad net to cast (we’re talking a region of 5 billion people!).
Solovair is a little more precise, guaranteeing that it’s from European tanneries and European cattle, a fact that’ll please the purists for whom made-in-England designation—or at least “made in Europe”—is really important.
As previously mentioned, the leathers used on the boot upper for both brands are corrected grain, meaning it’s remarkably smooth to touch, but the leather on the Solovairs is significantly more robust. The Dr. Martens has a much looser fiber structure and “floppier” feel; there’s more integrity to the Solovair’s leather.
To be clear, neither of these options is an example of amazing boot leather, but Solovair’s is thicker and less plasticky. This also means they come with a tougher break-in, but it’ll be worth it in the long run.
[Related: The Best Types of Leather for Boots]
Dr. Martens vs Solovair Soles
The comfortable sole made Docs famous, and it’s my favorite thing about the boots. In fact, Dr. Klaus Maertens—the founder of Dr. Martens—made the soles of his first boots with discarded rubber from the German Air Force (he was a doctor in the German army in World War 2) and they were originally marketed as a solution to age-related foot pain. That’s why they’re so soft underfoot and cushioned.
Dr. Martens
- Rubber outsole
- Cork midsole
- Polyurethane foam insole
- Hard to resole
- No shank
The shock absorption is fantastic, the rubber is soft but not too soft, and overall, these boots are a delight to walk around in. The footbed is made with a polyurethane foam that compresses over time, though, and that, coupled with the absence of a shank means that the shoes aren’t so great for long-term wear or all-day wear.
Many people report no problems, but factory workers and folks who have to be on their feet for a living tend to note that they don’t prevent foot pain the way that well-made, pricier boots do.
It’s also worth noting that it is tough to find a cobbler to resole Dr. Martens boots. The boots are advertised as having a Goodyear welt, but it’s not really a Goodyear welt. The upper is heat-sewn to the sole with flame, which is cool and all, but that does make these boots very hard to resole. Some cobblers specialize in resoling Dr. Martens if you’re happy to mail them your boots, but your average cobbler might not be able to.
Further Reading
Can You Resole Doc Martens? Yes. But Should You?
I met up with expert cobblers to learn about resoling Doc Martens. Learn more →
In summary, this is a nice soft sole that has great shock absorption but isn’t great if you’re on your feet all day.
[Related: The 8 Best Boot Soles You Should Know About]
Solovair
- Rubber outsole
- More padding under the heel, less under the toes
- Wood shank
- Resoleable
- A little more rigid than Dr. Martens
This shoe also comes with a rubber outsole that’s a tiny bit less springy, but not to a significant degree.
Regarding the rest of the boot’s construction, there’s more foam under the heel but less padding under the toe relative to the Docs. But the big thing to note is that Solovairs do have a shank. It’s made of wood, not steel, so it’s a bit more liable to break over time if you happen to bend the particularly bendy sole aggressively.
Nonetheless, the consensus is that Solovairs are more comfy than Docs when spending all day on your feet—and the boot’s shape holds up better over time as well.
The non-yellow “welt” stitch on the Solovairs, meanwhile, is actually decorative. It’s a second stitch, which is hidden on the inside of the boot, that’s keeping things together. But the take-home message here is that the Solovairs are resoleable.
In summary, Solovair’s sole is a tiny bit more rigid, but the foam under the footbed is better quality, the arch support is much better, the stability is better, and they’re resoleable.
[Related: Dr. Martens vs. Timberland]
Dr. Martens vs. Solovair Sizing
- Dr. Martens: Size down to the nearest whole-size
- Solovair: Use British sizing (usually one whole size down from US sizing)
One of the most surprising things about Dr. Martens is that they don’t offer half sizes. We’re talking about perhaps the most recognizable boot brand on Earth, and they don’t make half sizes. As someone who’s typically an 11.5 shoe size, this is frustrating. The company recommends sizing down half a size to one full size to find your fit. I went down to an 11 and it’s a little big, but a 10 would be too small. So, personally, I’m stuck with a blobby, not-so-great fit on the Docs.
Further Reading
How To Break In Doc Marten Boots
As the cheaper alternative, Docs are currently more popular than Solovair. For that reason, we’ve made a guide for new buyers on how to break in a pair of these iconic boots. Read more about how to break in Dr. Martens boots fast…
Meanwhile, Solovair does offer half sizes, but they use British sizing. On the brand’s site, it helpfully offers conversion to US sizing; when picking a size, this is what the drop-down options look like:
Further Reading
16 Best Boots For Men to Buy Tested By Experts (Spring 2024)
We’ve spent an inordinate amount of time and effort finding the best boots on the market for guys who want durable casual leather boots that’ll last a lifetime. Learn more →
Usually, your British size is one full size down from your true size in US sizes.
As you can see, a UK 10.5 is a US 11.5, and so on and so forth. Easy conversion. If you’re using your US size as a reference with Solovair, it’ll be your true size—the one you’ll get on a Brannock device in a shoe store. That’s typically half a size smaller than your sneaker size and half a size bigger than your lace-up boot size, although sizes can vary a bit brand by brand.
In short, I’m the same size (UK 10.5) in both Dr. Martens and Solovair. Since Dr. Martens doesn’t offer my true half size, I had to go with a slightly too big 11 for Docs, but I can stick to a 10.5 UK/11.5 US for Solovair.
Dr. Martens vs Solovair Price
- Solovair: A little pricier at $219
- Dr. Martens: A little more affordable at $170
The 1460's combat boot silhouette, combined with a cushy sole and trademark contrast welt stitching, has kept customers coming back for nearly 80 years.
Solovair Black Hi-Shine Derby Boots are made in England and provide wearers with a clean yet modern design. The silhouette is classic and the brand offers this boot in a myriad of leathers.
[Related: My List of The Best Boots for Men]
Dr Martens vs Solovair Pros & Cons (and Other Considerations)
It would feel disingenuous to exclude cultural caché as a factor when buying a pair of Dr. Martens. I feel like the best line that summarized what advantages the Docs may have was in a review I saw on Gear Patrol:
As far as cultural cachet is concerned, Dr. Martens has it in spades (…) The yellow welt stitching is almost as iconic as the Levi’s red tab.
But putting that aside, Docs’ soles are softer, the leather’s more comfortable (since it’s thinner and more flexible, and the price point is considerably cheaper.
Here are the main benefits of each boot:
Dr. Martens
- Softer outsole
- Leather’s more comfy (at first)
- Cheaper
Solovair
- Better quality, more durable leather
- Maintain shape better
- Resoleable
- Better arch support
I think it’s fair to say that most people who want Doc Martens buy them because they like the look and the heritage. It’s possible, though, that they’d spend a little more if they could find boots that look like Doc Martens but are higher quality—and Solovair boots certainly fit that bill.
If that’s you—if you’d spend a little more for something made in Europe, with better durability—you should invest in a pair of Solovairs. At first, they might take a little longer to break in, but long term, they’ll be more comfortable, keep their shape better, and can be resoled.
So, which boot should I get?
If you want more brand recognition, a lower price, and an easier break-in, go with Docs. If you want a more durable England-made boot with a more understated look, you will probably prefer Solovairs.
The good news is that since both boots have their unique benefits, it all comes down to priorities—you can’t truly go wrong. These boots can be worn with almost any style of outfit, which is pretty incredible.
Thanks for reading, and best of luck on your boot journey.
FAQ
No, they are not the same. They are similar, but there are some crucial differences.
Dr. Martens and Solovair used to be produced by the same manufacturer in the UK. But now, while Solovair boots are still made in England, almost all Dr. Martens boots are made in Asia.
Yep, two different names for the same brand—the former is just more colloquial.
No—Solovair and Dr. Martens were synonymous for 35 years, but Solovair broke off when the brand moved production overseas.
As far as boots go, Solovairs are relatively easy to break in, but they might take longer than Dr. Martens because of their thicker leather.
No—Dr. Martens does not offer half-sizing, but Solovair does. See our sizing guide above for more details and tips for choosing your size.
Caleb Peck
Thank you! I think there are quite a few people who are disappointed by the current Asian produced Docs. In recent years I’ve grown into Allen Edmonds, Timberland, Danner, Mezlan and Pantofola d’Oro boots and shoes, but if I’m honest I do want a pair of Docs like the ones I wore in middle school, high school, & college.
I won’t settle for the garbage they’re making in Asia these days, and I don’t know if the UK Docs are true to their heritage. I, for one, would be very interested in a 3 way comparison between the UK and Asian made Docs and the Solovair boots.
Nick
Hey Caleb, glad the article resonated with you. I agree, I should definitely do a UK vs overseas Doc Martens head to head!
David Stanger
Get in touch with ‘The British Shoe Company’ shop in Camden Town, London, UK. Years of experience, They wouldn’t touch Docs that were made in Asia. Great place for info on both these manufacturers and more.
Nick
Love it! I’m heading to England this week actually
Bella
I could not agree more, pay them a visit if you can (Tube, Northern Line, Camden Town). They advised me to switch to Solovair about 20 years ago after a life of Docs. And not without hesitation I can tell you.
Those Solovairs I bought at that time are still in use. The missus told me that perhaps a new pair would be appropriate (rubbish, but hey, no arguing with SWMBO).
Good thing? They are still made, so no brainer, just get identical, but new. Life is good…
Chris Horak
The Solovair steel-toe Gibson shoes I am wearing are vastly superior to the last pair of Dr. Martens I purchased. That pair of Doc Martens were so narrow and cheaply produced that I ended up giving them away, minus $140. Sadly, unless DM’s improve to their previous level of quality, I will be forced to pay more for Solovair or Gripfast gear.
Nick
Glad you agree, this was a stressful article to write!
Danica
Thank you for writing this article. I am in mourning for the docs I wore as a teenager and well not my thirties. I can’t believe I just gave them to charity shops. Gorgeous goth tbar heels and knee high sexy boots. They just stopped making them. I ordered a pair online of the standard sunshine yellow ones. They were made in Asia and stuff and awful. I can’t wear them. I miss my old friends. I loved my docs. I lived in my docs. They empowered me and made me happy. They made me feel like I could kick ass no matter the odds against me (a big deal when you are a teenage girl). I want my friends back but the brand has sold out and I am beyond gutted. Your article gives me hope that the real doc shoe makers are still out there making quality boots. I’m going to look them up now. Thank you xo
Nick English
Hey I’m really glad this article was so useful to you, Danica! Wear the Solovairs with pride, I hope they find you well.
Danica
I just bought the solovair 20hole boots thanks to your article and am flogging my made in china docs on a second hand sales site. Really appreciate this article. Super excited to get my feet back into quality leather
Nick English
excellennnnt good choice Danica!
Tony
Hey, great article and Im basically more or less sold on the Solovairs now. Just seems like the better Docs to me.
How is the weight comparison? I dont like very heavy boots and Docs are kind of the right weight for me. How much more do Solovairs weigh?
Nick
The Solovairs are a hair heavier but not what I would call heavy at all, definitely not approaching something like a Red Wing’s weight.
rob
Maybe visit NPS shoes’ website before considering the (around double price) Camden boot shop. They have been ripping off tourists for years. £300 for solovair derby boots that are £179 online, for example. They do sell ‘made in england’ DMs which are only assembled in UK from Asian parts. Only thing is that Camden boots do have to their advantage are ranges such as Commando-soled 8 holes which last a lot longer (Thicker sole). I have owned both and the Solovairs are better in every way compared to DMs.
Nick
Great info, Rob!
NA
Are the Solovairs in this review the greasy or hi-shine?
Nick English
High shine
Christina
I wanted to buy a new pair of Docs to replace my 30 year old boots but I was very shocked how bad the quality was in comparison to my old, made in UK, Docs. The owner of the shop where I bought my old pair told me, that he don’t sell Docs anymore and told me about Solovair. So I stumbled about this article and decided to go with Solovair and I am not disappointed! In Germany, the new Docs I found cost regular 199€, Solovair (incl. shipping) 219€ but the difference in quality is enormous.
Nick English
Excellent! I love thinking about Solovairs stomping around Germany and making a new legacy for the style. Hope you like them Christina!
Neel Shukla
Good comparison mate. Wish I knew about these two boots before I ordered my Docs – Made in England. It costs $450 (AUD). I am not sure if they have Solovair in Au, would have bought them instead. This being my second pair, I did compare the Doc in their showroom and when compared to the Timberland fit, I was compelled to buy the Timberland. Having said that my next, as and when I buy it would be Solovair.
Nick English
Hey glad this was useful for you, Neel! Maybe you could order Solovair online, though shipping to oz, I know from experience, isn’t cheap!
David
NPS Solovair web store free shipping to Australia. D’Honk Scooters also have a range of Solovairs available in ML and online.
Nick English
Excellent info David
Lukasz Fashion
The Great British Boot Off is an exciting and unique competition that pits the best British boot makers against each other. Participants must design and make a pair of boots that meets a set of criteria, then present their creation to a panel of judges. The competition tests the creativity and craftsmanship of the boot makers and pushes them to create something that is both fashionable and functional. The winner of the competition receives a cash prize and the prestige of being named the winner of the Great British Boot Off!
Nick English
And they get free conditioning cream!!
david
Mate, thank you for this review. This is exactly what I needed. The sheer fact that Solovair have half sizing is a game changer within itself. I have tried docs, and a size US9 is too small, and a size US10 is too big.
Being a man with quite a wide foot as well, Doc’s really don’t fit well for me. However, reading on the Solovair website, they do talk about having a bit of a wider fit. Did you find this in your review?
I have emailed Solovair directly to ask the question about width as well. I will report back with my findings.
Nick English
I can’t wrap my head around Docs lack of half sizes! Delighted you found what you’re looking for.
Dan
Just went to the Solovair factory in Wollaston. The place is amazing and have a factory outlet for seconds and discontinued lines that can only be bought in person and not online. I bought a pair of 8hole greasy derby boots for a $160AUD. If anyone is visiting the UK grab a hire car and make the trip. These boots look and feel like my DMs from 1993.
Nick English
Fantastic insight, and jealous of your factory trip Dan!
Andrew
Great article! I was in the British Boot Company’s shop in Camden over the weekend. I was able to buy a pair of Dr. Marten’s size 6.5, so that shop at least do half sizes.
Nick English
So strange it’s not offered on their US site, Andrew!
Jane
This is a true reflection of the differences. I’m a Solovair fan – they’re much better than my DM’s and I find them easier to break in – I’ve never had blisters from Solovair but always do from DM’s. For a price comparison it may be fairer to compare the price of made in England DM’s -these are about £20 more expensive than Solovair and made in the same town.
Nick English
So glad this article squared with your thoughts and experience, Jane!
Randy
I would strongly recommend to buy Dr. Martens made in England, than you will have the best of two worlds!
Nick English
Very fair comment, Randy!