How to Clean Cowboy Boots (Expert Advice): Smooth Leather, Suede, & More

Looking into how to clean cowboy boots properly? Good on you. No one wants to accidentally ruin their boots while trying to maintain them — or from not trying to maintain them at all!

From accidentally darkening the leather to over-conditioning or drying out already dry leather, there’s a load of common mistakes you’ll want to avoid.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of cleaning cowboy boots safely, starting with figuring out the way to clean and care for different leathers.

Our Experts

We’ve interviewed cobblers, bootmakers, and travelled the world to learn how to best care for our boots. Stridewise.com has been generating articles and videos (check them out!) for over 6 years because we wanted to know how to find cool boots — and above all, protect that investment!

Types of Cowboy Boot Leather

There is a wide range of leathers used to make cowboy boots. Fortunately, most leathers are straightforward to clean. Some leathers (like suede) require extra care, but are still easy enough to care for at home.

1. Smooth Leathers: There are a ton of different types of smooth leathers, but whether it’s cowhide or goatskin, this is probably what your boots are made of. You can clean most with a soft brush, a damp cloth, and a bit of conditioner. Some specialty and luxury leathers require extra care.
2. Oil-Tanned Leather: Oil-tanned is a term used for leather that has been impregnated with a high amount of oils as part of the tanning, dyeing, or finishing process. The extra moisture creates a very durable and low-maintenance boot, as it doesn’t dry out easily. Regular brushing and occasional conditioning are all oil-tanned leathers need.
3. Rough Out Leather: Rough out (or roughout) leathers encompass a wide variety of tannages and hide. What they have in common is that they’re inside out: the smooth side that’s usually on the outside of the boot is on the inside, with the fuzzy flesh side facing out. Usually, the boot company will recommend care tips based on the tanning process and treatments. Thicker than the similar-looking suede, some roughouts are waxed for extra water resistance, but in general, they’re very scratch resistant and don’t need creams or conditioners.
4. Suede: Suede is leather that’s been split down the middle. (Maybe not exactly down the middle, but so that the outer “skin” later is removed.) Because it’s split, suede is usually thinner than full grain leather. The fleshy fibers have a great texture, but it’s susceptible to stains and water damage unless it’s been treated. Waxed suede is the exception. The wax coating increases the durability and adds water resistance. It’s also more rugged-looking.
5. Exotic & Luxury Leathers: Like suede, these leathers might need additional care. Make sure to use a soft brush, little or no water, or harsh soaps like saddle soap. When in doubt, bring exotic and luxury leather to a cobbler who’ll know the best process for your leather.

Prep: What You’ll Need

Before diving into how to clean leather boots, it’s essential to gather all the supplies you’ll need. Here’s a list of items you should have on hand:

1. Soft brush, ideally horsehair (a dry cloth will work as well)
2. A small welt brush or soft-bristled toothbrush to get into the small cracks
3. Damp cloth or rag. Make sure they’re clean and free of shoe polish or cleaning prodcuts.
4. Clean, dry cloth or rags
5. Optional: A gentle soap like Cobbler’s Choice Leather Cleaner
6. Neutral leather conditioner or boot oil (oils might darken leather)
7. Optional: Saddle soap for heavy stains
8. Suede: A stiff, bristled brass suede brush and suede cleaner

Having these supplies ready will ensure that you can clean your cowboy boots thoroughly and efficiently.

How to Clean Oil-Tanned & Smooth Leather Cowboy Boots

Almost all leathers benefit from regular, light cleaning. This is as simple as giving your boots a quick brush after wearing them.

But, as is the case with a lot of well-worn boots, you might need to put a bit more elbow grease into the cleaning.

How to Clean Cowboy Boots Properly

How to Use Saddle Soap for Deep Cleaning

If your cowboy boots have oil or salt stains, you might want to use Saddle Soap. Beware that overusing Saddle Soap can dry out the leather because it’s an astringent that tightens the leather pores, helping to squeeze out stains — but also oils and dyes. Don’t leave it on for too long; the goal isn’t to saturate the leather. You just want to use enough to remove stains and grime from the top layer of the boots.

Never use Saddle Soap with suede.

1. Make sure you have a brush or cloth for applying the soap, dry cloth, water, and Saddle Soap.
2. Rub the damp cloth or brush into the Saddle Soap in a circular motion, working up a lather.
3. Rub the lather on the boot in circular motions, cleaning the surface of the boots.
4. Let sit for 4–5 minutes, and remove excess soap with a damp rag. You may need to use your fingernail to scratch away some softened stains.
5. Dry your boots thoroughly before conditioning.

Recommended Saddle Soap

How to Dry Leather Boots

After cleaning the leather, it’s crucial to let the boots dry properly to prevent damage caused by excess moisture.

Drying Tips

• Avoid exposing the boots to direct sunlight or heat sources, as they can cause the leather to crack or fade.
• Place the boots in a well-ventilated area at room temperature.
• Stuff the boots with a clean, dry cloth or newspaper, or a cedar shoe tree to help retain their shape and absorb moisture from the inside.

Allow the boots to air dry naturally, which may take several hours or overnight, depending on the leather’s thickness and the humidity levels.

Avoid rushing the drying process by using a hairdryer or heater, as this can cause the leather to become brittle and prone to cracking. Some people use them just fine, but the risk is too high if you’re just learning to dry boots from an internet article. Leaving them to dry overnight is perfectly adequate.

How to Condition Cowboy Boots

Once your cowboy boots are dry, it’s time to condition them to add important oils and fats back into the leather to prevent cracking. (Leather is skin, so the benefits are somewhat akin to moisturizing your face: it retains moisture and improves longevity and aesthetics.)

1. Apply a small amount of leather conditioner or boot oil to a soft cloth and rub it gently onto the surface of the boots.
2. Don’t overdo it. Use enough to cover the boot, but not so much that you’re making a layer on top of it.
3. Evenly apply the conditioner over the boot’s surface, apply more to the areas that tend to dry out or crease, such as the flex points, toe, and heel.
4. Allow the conditioner or oil to sit on the leather for a few minutes, following the manufacturer’s instructions. This lets it penetrate.
5. Use a clean cloth or horsehair brush to buff the boots in a circular motion, removing any excess conditioner or oil and bringing out their natural shine. Don’t use the brush/cloth you used to apply the Saddle Soap.

Recommended Conditioners:

How Often Do Cowboy Boots Need Conditioning?

As a general guideline, it is recommended to condition your cowboy boots 2 to 4 times per year, though some folks condition them more often if they wear them particularly hard. Here are some tips on knowing if it’s time to condition:

Dryness: If you notice that the leather is dry, stiff, or showing signs of cracking, it’s a clear indication that it needs conditioning. Dry leather can lead to damage, so conditioning restores oils and flexibility.

Exposure to Harsh Elements: If you regularly wear your cowboy boots in harsh weather conditions or expose them to excessive sunlight, wind, or moisture, they may require more frequent conditioning. These elements can strip the natural oils from the leather, leading to dryness and potential damage.

Heavy Use: If you wear your cowboy boots frequently, especially in demanding environments such as ranching or working outdoors, they may require more frequent conditioning. Regular use can cause the leather to become dehydrated and lose its natural oils, so conditioning helps replenish and protect the leather.

Clean Suede, Nubuck & Rough Out Leather Cowboy Boots

What you need:

• A suede brush, like a brass bristle brush
• A soft bristle brush, like a dauber brush
• Suede cleaner like Saphir Omnidaim or Saphir Omninettoyant
• Suede protector like Saphir Invulner or Tarrago Nanoprotector Spray

How to clean suede boots and rough out cowboy boots:

1. Use a suede brush, like the brass bristle brush, to get as much dirt off as you can.
2. Mix two parts water to one part Omnidaim, and agitate the water to get suds. (Don’t use Saddle Soap on suede. It’s too harsh.)
3. Apply the cleaner into the suede with the soft bristle brush; rather than spot clean, wet the entire boot to avoid discoloration.
4. Pad dry the boots with a towel.
5. Go over the boot with the stiff bristle brush to bring up the nap and restore the texture.
6. Optional: Suede protector to protect suede from stains (might darken the leather)

Recommended Suede Cleaning Products

Wrapping Up: How to Clean Cowboy Boots

Cleaning cowboy boots is a straightforward process that, when done correctly, can extend their lifespan and keep them looking their best.

Remember to gather the necessary supplies, remove dirt and dust, clean the leather with water or leather cleaner if you have persistent stains, allow the boots to dry naturally, and finally, condition them to restore their beauty.

With regular maintenance and proper cowboy boots boot care, your boots will continue to be a stylish and reliable companion for years to come.