The Expert Guide to Mink Oil For Boots | Pros, Cons, & Alternatives

When it comes to leather shoes, there’s no shortage of products for conditioning, waterproofing, and protecting your footwear from the elements. One such product is mink oil. It softens leather, breathes new life into old boots, and helps restore leather bags and many other products (even a motorcycle seat). Here’s what it is, what to know, and how to use it.

We enlisted two experts to help us understand mink oil—leatherworker and YouTube host Weston Kay, aka Rose Anvil. And founder David Armstrong of Armstrong’s All Naturals to get their take on everything about mink oil for boots, from pros and cons to whether or not it’ll darken leather.

So, What is Mink Oil?

• Mink oil is made from the belly fat of minks, an animal in the same family as otters and weasels
• It’s used to moisturize leather products, improve their longevity, and help with water resistance
• It stands out among animal fats for its stability; it’s less likely to go rancid than other animal fats used for similar purposes (eg. beef tallow)

For starters, yes—mink oil is derived from the mink, the animal. Mink oil is a leather conditioner that is traditionally made from a mink’s abdomen fat; it comes in the form of mink oil paste or as a liquid.

While it is mainly used by shoe enthusiasts and leather workers today, this oily balm has its roots in Native American material culture. Long ago, indigenous populations such as the Chippewa used mink oil as a skin conditioner. They discovered that mink oil absorbed quickly and made their skin extremely soft.

The ubiquity of mink oil paste as a leather conditioner actually began in the 1950s (Versatile Mink Oil: An Under-Appreciated Resource, Ward 2017). After the end of the Second World War, mink supplanted fox fur coats, particularly the American mink. This new market for mink fur left a trail of byproducts that included the animal’s fat. Manufacturers found uses for this readily available resource and began rendering the fat to make their own mink oil leather balms.

[Related: The 5 Best Boot Conditioners on the Market]

Benefits of Mink Oil

• Conditions leather preventing cracking and extending the lifespan of your products
• Adds extra water resistance to boots

I learned about mink oil when I first started firefighting, when I actually got work boots. We were wildland firefighting, being in ash and heat all day, [those conditions] dries out the leather.

Weston Kay, Leatherworker

Mink oil did not get the name recognition that it has from nowhere. For a while, it was the go-to conditioner that workers relied on to maintain their leather goods and breathe new life into their boots. People in construction, farming, and other industries noticed that constant friction made their leathers dry, and mink oil seemingly reversed the damage. That’s why it remains popular even in 2024.

Mink Oil Keeps Leather Soft and Conditioned

Mink oil was the conditioner of choice to re saturate that leather, prevent it from drying out and cracking. So it just adds that moisture. That gives you a longevity of leather.

Weston Kay, Leatherworker

Mink oil replenishes the leather’s natural oils that are lost during usage. The loss of oil makes leather boots more susceptible to cracking. Mink oil not only replenishes the missing oils, it also lubricates the fibers so they can be more flexible and durable.

Paste vs. Liquid: What’s the Difference?

• Mink oil paste is less messy
• Liquid mink oil leaves less residue.

You may notice that mink oil products come in both paste and liquid form. One is not better than the other in terms of efficacy. Some people prefer the paste because it’s less messy and offers more control during application. Others like that the liquid leaves less residue and may simply use a more precise applicator brush to compensate. Ultimately, it’s all about personal preference, as both offer similar conditioning properties.

Does Mink Oil Waterproof Shoes and Boots?

• Mink oil adds extra water resistance to leather

Mink oil adds water resistance to some extent, but not nearly as well as actual waterproofing conditioners. It’s not going to be waterproof.

Weston Kay, Leatherworker

Another benefit of mink oil is that it can make your leather shoes and boots more water-resistant. That is to say, your shoes will be able to take on light to heavy rain or the occasional snowstorm (for a short duration) and it helps to prevent salt stains.

This is not the same as saying your shoes are waterproofed. Water resistance is not the same as waterproofness. Given enough time exposed in the rain, your socks will, one day, begin to feel wet! In order for your boots to be truly waterproofed, you need to have a special liner inside the upper made from Gore-Tex or a similar material.

But back to mink oil. When applied correctly, mink oil paste fills and penetrates the pores of the leather creating a coat that can repel moisture and mitigate salt stains. But how does it work? The science behind this is actually quite simple. Water is a polar substance and oils are a nonpolar substance.

Polar and nonpolar substances do not like to mix. When they come into contact with one another, they separate. Many of us have probably seen this principle in action while making chicken noodle soup! The oils float to the top away from the water. This is why treating your shoes with a fat-derived oil improves their water resistance.

[Related: The Right Way to Waterproof Nice Boots]

How to Apply Mink Oil to Leather

1. Make sure your shoes (or other leather item) are clean and dry. Wipe them with a dry cloth and make sure they have been dry for at least 24 hours before application.
2. Use a hair dryer to gently warm up the leather of your boots to aid with absorption.
3. Apply the mink oil paste or liquid to the applicator brush, soft cloth, or rag. Start with a small amount.
4. Gently rub the mink oil into the leather, section by section. Wipe off any oil that gets onto non-leather parts of the shoe (laces, eyelets, etc.).
5. Allow the oil to absorb into the leather for at least 30 minutes, and ideally more than an hour.
6. Brush the leather to make sure the oil has been evenly distributed. The leather may look darker and should be soft and supple.

Does It Go Bad?

• Mink oil lasts for years if properly stored
• Don’t use coconut oil

A huge part of why people love mink oil, is even having this sit in the shelf for five years. As long as it’s not hot, it’s gonna be fine. If you put this on your boots, let them sit for a couple years, usually it’s gonna be fine.

Weston Kay, leatherworker

Mink oil is very stable. Although it is high in unsaturated fats, it is not as reactive to oxygen as other animal fats or vegetable oil. By having greater oxidative stability, mink oil has a very little chance of going rancid when stored properly. As long as you keep your mink oil in a cool, dry space and away from heat, your tub should last for years.

Is Mink Oil Ethical?

• Mink oil is the by-product of the fur industry
• Fur farming is banned in some US states and European countries
• There are effective mink oil alternatives

Despite its popularity, for some people, mink oil paste (or liquid) is no longer the poster boy for leather conditioners (and for good reason). I asked the founder of David Armstrong, of Armstrong’s All Naturals, for his thoughts on the matter.

“In the 21st century, mink oil is derived almost exclusively as a byproduct of mink fur farming for the fashion industry, mostly for fur coats,” he says. “While mink farms exist predominantly in China, some states in the US and many countries in the EU have already banned, or are beginning to outlaw fur farming due to animal welfare and environmental concerns.”

Armstrong brings to light an issue that’s often ignored when it comes to our love of leather and other animal products: the ethical and environmental impact of our actions. It seems pretty clear that mink oil production has a link to the mistreatment of animals. Now, obviously, leather goods carry their own baggage of animal mistreatment—potentially, anyway—but if there are options available for boot conditioning that don’t have the same baggage as mink oil, you might want to give them a try.

When it comes to mink oil, a lot of it these days isn’t made from mink fats at all. A lot of available gunk is made from a mixture of melted pig fat and silicon. Take a look at Sof Sole Mink Oil, for instance. We reviewed the stuff and even though the name of the product is “Mink Oil,” it’s only 5 to 15 percent mink oil! This is why reading the product details on the label is so important.

The Best Mink Oil Alternatives

One mink oil alternative is neatsfoot oil. Some people may find neatsfoot oil, which is oil from the rendered shin and feet bones of cattle, more forgiving because it is a byproduct of the existing cattle industry. Again, the cattle industry is not free from its own problems, but in my opinion, it is still an industry that needs to exist as it provides food for our growing population. This is unlike the mink farm industry, which exists mainly to satisfy the demands of fashion.

[Love Red Wing? See the differences between Red Wing’s Boot Oil and Mink Oil]

#1: Fiebing’s Neatsfoot Oil

Fiebing’s Neatsfoot Oil contains 100% neatsfoot oil. Since 1895, this all-natural conditioner has been used by workers and consumers alike, and many believe that it is best to use natural animal oils to replenish the lost oils in leather and keep your leather soft. It needs to be mentioned that this conditioner will darken your leather.

But are there leather conditioners out there that are not based entirely on products of slaughter at all? The answer to that is yes.

#2: Bickmore Bick 4

Bick 4 isn’t the sort of product that will deeply penetrate the pores of your boots and improve water resistance like mink oil, but Stridewise did name it the best conditioner for preserving the color of your boots. Made from a proprietary blend of natural emulsifiers, conditioners, and moisturizers, it keeps the leather moist and supple without darkening it. It’ll extend the lifespan of your boots; it just won’t waterproof them as well.

#3: Armstrong’s All-Natural Leather Oil

Armstrong All Natural Boot/Leather Oil contains palmitoleic acids found in mink oil; however, theirs is gathered from plant-based sources.

Armstrong’s All Natural manufactures a boot oil that mimics the nurturing properties of mink oil without relying on the fur industry.

[Read the founder of Armstrong’s All Natural’s op-ed: “You Use Too Much Boot Conditioner“]

#4: Smith’s Leather Balm

Texturally similar to mink oil paste, Smith’s Leather Balm is another brand to look for. In my conversation with the owners, they mentioned that they “wanted a formula that could be safely applied by hand, [both] quickly and easily.” But in order for that to happen, they decided their recipe needed to be free of petroleum, animal fats, and potentially toxic chemicals, so they devised a conditioner that relied on plant-based ingredients.

The husband and wife duo behind the brand wanted something so safe that you can leave the excess on your skin after you’ve finished conditioning, so they’re transparent with the ingredients list: organic cocoa butter, organic beeswax, and 100% pure sweet almond oil.

Aside from the beeswax, which acts as a barrier against moisture, all the other ingredients help to condition with vitamins and moisturizers.

[Related: Does It Really Matter If a Conditioner Has Petroleum?]

#5: Obenauf’s® Heavy Duty LP

Obenauf’s® Heavy Duty LP contains beeswax and other natural nourishing ingredients. The great thing about this product is that beeswax not only protects the boot from moisture, but also keeps the body’s natural oils in. Seeing that this is a wax-based product, it is best used on chrome-tanned leather. For an Obenauf product for oil-tanned leather, see below.

#6: Obenauf’s® Oil For Moderate Conditions 

Obenauf’s® Oil For Moderate Conditions also contains beeswax and natural conditioning oils. This conditioner is similar to those listed above except it is more suited for oil-tanned leather and vegetable-tanned leather. Obenauf says that this product is great for hydrating leather that gets a lot of sun exposure during the summer months. This balm is formulated to heal cracks and restore leather discolorations caused by sunlight.

#7: Venetian Shoe Cream

Venetian Shoe Cream is a well-respected conditioner that is used by many boot companies. Although its formula and true ingredients is a well-guarded secret (it’s likely not plant-based), we do know—per our review—that there are six or seven different waxes and no thickeners or silicone or waterproofers. What this conditioner does is nourish leathers and gives them a little bit of shine (a wonderful added bonus for many kinds of shoes), making it a solid alternative to mink oil paste.

#8: Saphir Renovateur

Saphir Renovateur is another one of those conditioners that hides their full ingredient list. What we do know is it’s a combination of mink oil and waxes. It’s often used as a base layer on boots as a conditioner, and as a leather prepper for high-shine finishes.

Saphir Renovateur is not quite an alternative to mink oil as the ingredients do contain mink oil, but Renovateur will not darken your leather. It’s not all mink oil, after all; it also contains a variety of waxes that are intended to condition, shine, and produce a soft patina as the boots age. Watch the video from my Saphir Renovateur review below.

Mink Oil vs Neatsfoot Oil

Both mink oil and neatsfoot oil are widely available and produced by many brands. Asking which one is “better” is not helpful, as each tin may have a slightly different effect on your boot—always read the product details. However, I can offer you some general advice.

With neatsfoot oil, you know you are getting 100% natural ingredients from cattle. The natural oil is great for the leather, but can also be acidic to the stitching thread, which might cause an issue in the longevity of your footwear.

There have actually been reports of the stuff rotting away the stitching on the people’s boots with both products. The good news is that most cases of rotting occurred on boots stitched together by cotton thread. Most boots today are stitched with nylon threads, so it should not pose a huge issue whether you use neatsfoot or mink oil.

Will Mink Oil Damage or Darken My Boots?

• Don’t over-condition your boots; you can clog the pores, and your leather shoes or boots may rot
• Mink oil can darken leather

Applying too much mink oil or using it too frequently will soften the leather too much and clog the pores of the leather, preventing any ventilating from taking place. This will accumulate moisture (that means your sweat — yuck!) that can lead to bacteria and mold growth, making your feet stink and slowly deteriorating the leather.

Another thing to consider is that mink oil will darken your leather significantly and take away the natural shine of your boots. Depending on the type of leather, it may even give it a matte look. Don’t use mink oil on suede shoes unless you want to change the appearance. Some people prefer the stock color of their leather—in which case, something like Venetian Shoe Cream or Saphir Renovateur is a better bet.

[Further Reading: Mink Oil vs Saddle Soap and When to Use Each]

The Takeaway

With its long history and versatility, mink oil is here to stay and will continue to be the go-to leather conditioner for many people. The product proves to be especially useful in a working environment for extending the life of leather.

It’s meant for rugged leathers and workers who deal with a lot of friction at the jobsite/farm. Hikers and workers generally do not care that their shoes are darkening because they expect that to happen.

Should I use mink oil on my boots?

Mink oil is a great product to add oils back into your dry leather boots. It also adds water resistance to leather. Mink oil will darken your leather permanently and give it a matte look, we recommend other conditioners if you want to preserve the look and feel of your leather boots.

Does mink oil weaken leather?

Used properly, mink oil will not weaken the leather. Applying too much mink oil or applying it too frequently will soften the leather too much, clog the pores in the hide, and prevent airflow.

Is mink oil good for new leather boots?

This depends on the type of leather and how long the boots have been sitting in the store or factory. Leather dries out over time and this leads to cracking. Most leather boots have been treated with oils and waxes to prevent them from drying, but if your new boots have been sitting in the store for a year or more the leather will dry out. If the leather feels dry add a very small amount of mink oil or leather conditioner to your boots.

Why do people put mink oil on boots?

People put mink oil on boots that are used frequently in tough conditions like high temperatures, wet conditions, or muddy dirty environments. Mink oil works as a protective coating for the leather.