Is Waxed Cotton Waterproof?

On the face of it, cotton doesn’t have a lot going for it in the waterproof stakes.

If you’ve ever been out in a heavy rainstorm wearing only a denim jacket, you will know this to be true.

But add wax to cotton, and it’s a game-changer. Cotton is no longer confined to dry weather if you have a waxed cotton jacket to wear. Nor your choice of backpack if yours is a waxed canvas bag.

The video below demonstrates how water-resistant waxed cotton is:

Is Waxed Cotton Waterproof or Water Resistant?

It’s also considered the original performance fabric. It’s water resistant. It’s hardwearing.

Nick Kemp, Design Director, Flint & Tinder

Waxed cotton is not waterproof, but it is water-resistant. If you are in the rain for long periods of time or if there’s a strong wind, water can penetrate the porous fabric. On top of that, water can leak through the seams.

That said, in Carl Murawski’s video, Flint and Tinder’s Waxed Trucker Jacket holds up very well in his simulated shower, but it wouldn’t stay dry if you were in more extreme situations like riding a motorcycle or in heavy rain for a long time.

As we’ll discuss below, cotton fabrics (like waxed canvas fabric, which is most often associated with waxed goods) are a more porous material than many synthetics. Wax adds a layer over the top of the cotton that’s both flexible and waterproof: water will slide off of the material when it’s waxed.

If you throw a waxed canvas bag into a lake, the contents will eventually get wet. However, a waxed bag or jacket will hold up to your average rainstorm without an issue — just note that with wear, it’ll need rewaxing every year or so to maintain that waterproofness.

Why Cotton isn’t a Performance Material

Cotton isn’t a great choice for outdoor gear. In its natural state, it could never be described as water resistant.

This is because cotton fibers are hollow, the particles of which have a negative electrical charge. Water, conversely, is composed of positively charged molecules. The result is that water molecules are attracted and fill up the microscopic gaps between the cotton fibers.

This is, unfortunately, a very efficient process. So good, in fact, that cotton can suck up to 27 times its own weight in water droplets. This is why cotton takes such a long time to dry out.

The History Behind Waxed Cotton and Waxed Canvas Jackets

In about the 15th century waxed canvas was used for sales on ships and then was later turned into Slickers for fishermen.

Nick Kemp, Head Designer, Flint and Tinder

Around the 15th Century, canny Scottish sailors observed that their flax canvas sails captured the wind better when wet…up to a point. If the sailcloth got too waterlogged, any gains in speeds were quickly reversed as soaking wet canvas is incredibly heavy. They began using readily available fish oils to shed the water.

Scottish Sailmakers to the Rescue

Seafaring guys would use linseed oil that would make the jacket yellow. That’s why crabbers and others are still wearing yellow today.

Karol Goodwin, Flint and Tinder’s Lead Designer, Huckberry.com

In the 1700s, Scottish sailmaker Francis Webster Ltd hit on the idea of treating flax sailcloth with linseed oil. This enabled their sails, the sole means of propulsion, to shed water even in driving rain. In addition, because the fibers were so tightly woven together, it was relatively easy to plug the gaps and block out the rain.

Passages between ports became significantly quicker as a result of not having waterlogged, wet sails.

From Oiled Flax to Oiled Cotton

Flax was still relatively heavy; in search of ever more efficient sail technology, Francis Webster Ltd treated lighter-weight cotton with linseed oil, creating the first commercially available oiled cotton.

The addition of relatively cheap and readily available linseed oil made a huge difference not only to the ship. Mariners were quick to realize that water-resistant cotton fabric can just as easily be made into rainwear. Old and damaged linseed oil-treated sailcloth was then at a premium for bad weather on the high seas.

But linseed oil wasn’t the perfect solution: in cold weather, it became stiff and cracked. Conversely, during hot weather, the oil would seep out. Over time, clothes would discolor and turn yellow, hence the traditional fisherman’s garb.

[Related: The 7 Best Waxed Canvas Jackets]

The Development of Water Resistant Waxed Cotton Fabrics

Fish oil would eventually evolve to linseed oil, and finally paraffin, each making the affected fibers more water-resistant.

Jon Gugala, Huckberry.com

To address the shortcomings of oiled cloth, paraffin wax coating was developed. This, too, came about by accident in 1830 when a German chemist discovered that residues left over from refining petroleum (gas) into oil for lubrication could be made into a form of wax.

As this paraffin wax was colorless and odorless, it was put to a great many uses, including the waterproofing of fabrics being made into coats.

Best of all, paraffin wax was incredibly inexpensive to make.

The first company to tap into demand for water-resistant wax cotton fabrics was British Millerain. This UK company developed a unique type of woven paraffin wax coated cotton. By the 1890s, they were selling cotton khaki drill fabric to military troops.

Suddenly, water-resistant waxed cotton and waxed canvas became more practical, requiring little maintenance compared to the flax oil fabrics.

Other Famous Waxed Cotton Coats

Much of the production went to New Zealand and the domestic market in Great Britain, where waxed canvas jackets became almost mandatory wear for farmers, fishermen, and anyone who worked outdoors.

Today, though, the groundbreaking cloth company does not have anywhere near the consumer awareness of Barbour jackets. Indeed, Barbour’s waxed canvas clothing range is pretty much synonymous with waxed canvas in most people’s minds.

[Related: A 10-Year Review of Barbour’s Waxed Jacket]

Why Waxed Cotton Jackets?

It’s water resistant. It’s hardwearing. I love wax canvas because it’s like a pair of jeans. As it ages, it gets better with wear it kind of tells your story.

Nick Kemp, Head Designer, Flint and Tinder

Wax jackets are still popular because they perform well enough for most situations. They’ll keep you dry in the rain, and they’re wind-resistant and durable. On top of that, as Carl Murawski says, they’re a patina cheat code. They look better the more you wear them.

 

Caring for Waxed Canvas & Waxed Cotton

A fabric that’s been treated with wax will need to be re-waxed on an annual basis or so.

Thankfully, it’s not too much of an ordeal to ensure you get many more years out of your jacket.

Get your jacket as clean as possible by brushing away dust, grease, and debris. Do not, however, be tempted to wash your jacket in a washing machine. It will remove the wax and can significantly reduce

In addition, do not use soap or detergents on the fabric, as these are simply too harsh.

Never put a waxed canvas jacket in the washing machine or dryer. Seriously, don’t do it. Spot clean only.

Nick Kemp, Design Director, Flint & Tinder

Step 1: Clean Waxed Canvas

If your wax jacket is dirty, let it air dry, then brush off the mud with a soft-bristled brush. If there are stubborn stains, you can spot-clean clean with water or a mild soap like Dr. Bronner’s or Otter Wax Canvas cleaner.

Step 2: Gather Suppliers

To re-wax your jacket, you’ll need:

• Proprietary wax designed for waxed canvas and waxed cotton fabric (Filson’s Oil Finish Wax and Otter Wax are popular options)
• Stiff cardboard or plastic sheeting to prevent mess
• Soft bristle brush or sponge
• Clean cloth
• Hair dryer

Step 3: Re- Waxing

1. If you’re using canned wax, melt it with a heat gun or in a bowl of water.
2. Apply wax in small circular motions for even coverage.
3. As you rub the wax into the fabric, you’ll see a glossy sheen.
4. Don’t forget to rub the wax into the seams. That’s where water will leak in.
5. Once you’ve applied the wax, use your heat gun to set it. Use circular motions.
6. The wax will heat up and sink into the fabric. You’ll know it sets when the jacket returns to its original color.
7. Let it cure for 24 hours in a well-ventilated area.

Wrapping Up

Waxed canvas is a great option for anyone who loves the look and feel of heritage fabrics and wants durable, water-resistant outdoor clothing for everyday wear. But if you need your apparel as light as possible and you don’t want to maintain it (like rewaxing a jacket), you might prefer synthetic materials. 

Frequently Asked Questions