Parkhurst vs Grant Stone: Who Makes the Better Plain-Toe Boot?

I’m Dale of Dale’s Leatherworks, and today I’m comparing and contrasting two amazing boots from Parkhurst and Grant Stone.

I’m looking at Parkhurst’s Allen and Grant Stone’s Edward. Both models are plain-toe service boots in roughout leathers — “Dark Chocolate Roughout” and “Tobacco Waxed Commander,” respectively — and they might look like near-identical builds to the untrained eye.

Today, we will delve into the subtle differences — the leathers, construction, fit — and which one I think wins in the end.

Parkhurst Allen vs. Grant Stone Edward Boots

We’ll start out by comparing these fantastic boots.

Similarities:

• Both of these models are nappy waxed leather (and come in many others)
• They’re plain toe boots
• Veg tan leather heels and insoles
• Come with round cotton laces
• Five eyelets and three-speed hooks
• Flawless welt stitching on both
• Similar outsole construction quality

Differences:

• Parkhurst is made in Spain for $418, Grant Stone made in China for $395
• Grant Stone uses name brand leathers, Parkhurst’s tanneries are undisclosed
• Grant Stone uses waxed suede, Parkhurst’s is waxed roughout — functionally they’re the same, though.
• Parkhursts are partially lined in the vamp but not heel area
• Grant Stones are fully glove-lined throughout, including the tongue
• With a gusseted tongue and split reverse welt, Parkhurst is a little more water resistant
• Grant Stone’s Edward is overall just a little bit dressier
• Shiny brass eyelets on Parkhurst vs. subtly antiqued brass on Grant Stone
• I think Grant Stone’s sole is a little higher quality
• Grant Stone is more subdued, while Parkhurst has a higher contrast look
• Parkhurst has a bit more height and arch contouring

Leathers

• Grant Stone uses C.F. Stead’s Waxy Commander leather
• Parkhurst uses an undisclosed, but excellent leather
• They look and act similarly, though Parkhurst’s is technically roughout.

I’m a professional leatherworker and I personally consider the leathers in these two boots to be just about the same thing.

Both leather uppers are essentially the same color. I did re-wax these Edwards once, and so the initial finish on them has been restored, and while the Parkhursts are new, they’ve got some gnarly character of their own going on.

As the wax wears away with use, the nappy fibers are sure to stand up and look even hairier and better.

Parkhurst Allen Boot in Dark Chocolate Roughout

I’ve got the Parkhurst Allen boot in dark chocolate roughout leather. Note that these days, Parkhurst offers the Allen in Goodyear welt and stitchdown varieties — mine are the Goodyear welted ones.

The leather is from an undisclosed tannery, and the brand specifies that it’s a full grain, vegetable-tanned roughout. Boot guys will probably be pleasantly surprised that it’s a vegetable tanned leather — and boot guys are Parkhurst’s market!

Currently, Parkhurst boots are made in Spain, where Andrew from Parkhurst has been sourcing a lot of good leather.

I suspect he’s not disclosing the specific tannery because he may have worked out a deal to keep a few special leathers from them to offer exclusively from Parkhurst. Some guys prefer more transparency from their boot brands, but I hope I can assure you that this is good stuff.

Grant Stone Edward Boots in Waxed Tobacco

These are the Grant Stone Edward boots in Waxy Commander leather from Charles F. Stead tannery. This is a very well known waxed suede that’s used by tons of brands looking to disabuse people of the idea that suede is always delicate!

This suede is shrunken, so the fibers are very compact, and a generous amount of wax is used here, which adds tremendous water resistance to the suede’s scratch resistance. It might be fairly uniform in appearance when it arrives, but it quickly picks up a patina as the wax wears away.

Waxy Commander is shaved far down into the grain to give it a uniform consistency and less nap. The Grant Stones have no rough nap popping up or sticking out anywhere.

Grant Stone gets a point for identifying the tannery but other than that, they are very similar leathers.

Design & Construction

• Similar design, but there are some slight differences
• Both have flawless stitching
• Parkhurst has thicker welt thread
• Parkhurst’s look pops a bit more due to contrasting colors
• Grant Stone is more subtle and subdued
• The Parkhurst tongue is gusseted; the Grant Stone tongue is not

On the surface, these boots look very similar, but if you dig down into the details, you’ll start noticing subtle differences.

Welts & Stitching

The Allens have a 360-degree Goodyear welt with a split reverse welt, whereas the Grant Stones have a flat welt with no storm welt. I prefer the split reverse welt for its warm tonal appearance, as well as offering a little bit more moisture protection, so that’s a point for Parkhurst from me.

The welt stitching on both is equally flawless. However, Parkhurst is using what looks like a thicker thread, if not a double thread — that’s a serious welt! That’s another point for Parkhurst.

The Grant Stones have a cleaner look from hiding leather reinforcements under the lining. So here, it’s up to you whether you like your boots with more minimalist uppers or with extra stitching details.

Additionally, the upper stitch patterns are different. The Parkhurst stitch pattern runs from up the quarter with a double stitch up the eyelet facings and then across the collar. The Grant Stones are going with the subdued look again, with stitches running up the eyelet facings and then stopping there.

Edges & Aesthetics

Also, Grant Stone darkened their edge a little bit just to blend it better with the upper. As you can see, it’s almost like a cherry or a medium brown stain that they put on the edge to match the uppers. 

Parkhurst did what I love: a beautiful contrast between the uppers and outsole. The natural leather welt and midsole have almost a woodsy look, and I enjoy this pop of contrast more on the Parkhurst. It’s just a more exciting-looking aesthetic to me with the polished brass eyelets, rugged nappy leather additional stitching, and contrast at the welt. 

Of course, if you prefer a more subdued look, you’d lean more toward the Edward, which is one of Grant Stone’s dressier models.

Overall, I will call it a tie since both brands do phenomenal work, and one can’t be ranked as truly better than the other. It’s all up to what you want.

If I had to pick one for myself in this style right now, I would probably go for Parkhurst due to the contrast and pop in colors and hardware. But if you want a more subdued look, the Grant Stone model totally sings.

Sole Construction

The Parkhurst has a veg-tan leather midsole, but the studded outsole is not branded. The Grant Stones are built on their proprietary studded Grant Stone outsole, which I favor slightly.

The Grant Stone’s back heel stay is a standard back heel strip, whereas the Allens look a bit more exciting with a couple of rows of stitching running through it horizontally and through the outside into a piece of leather for the heel grip.

Parkhurst has leather bends insole, leather midsoles, veg tan leather welt, rubber outsole, leather stacked heel block, and a heel toplift.

There are three layers of leather in the heel stack on the Parkhurst and on the Grant Stones. The Parkhursts are elevated by about a millimeter compared to the Grant Stones, which looks like they sit a bit more flat.

As far as the overall sole construction, I’d place them both on equal footing — no pun intended. I prefer the Edward’s outsole, but both are probably the same quality of outsole construction.

Lining & Backstay

The Parkhurst is partially lined in the vamp but not the heel area. The Grant Stones are fully glove-lined throughout.

I don’t consider that to be an advantage or disadvantage; it’s just a design difference. An unlined boot breathes a little better, a lined one might hold its shape a little better.

Eyelets & Hardware

Both have a similar layout of five eyelets and three-speed hooks. Parkhurst used polished brass eyelets for this run versus the more muted antique brass eyelets on the Grant Stones. Overall, I like the look of the polished brass eyelets on the Parkhurst. So, another point for Parkhurst.

Both eyelets are the lightweight type that will cinch down on you. It looks to me like the Grant Stone eyelets look stronger, so I would give them a point there.

I can see a brass stud in the center of the inside eyelets of the Parkhursts as opposed to the hollow eyelets of the Grant Stone boots. I suspect that even though the Parkhurst eyelets look flimsier, they might be held in the boot more securely.

Tongue Design

The Grant Stone tongue is lined on the opposite side, whereas the Parkhurst tongue is not lined — it just has a single layer of the waxed roughout. The Parkhurst tongue is gusseted; the Grant Stone tongue is not. 

Fit & Comfort

• Both have unstructured toes
• Grant Stone is a bit wider than the Parkhurst
• Parkhust has bit more of an arch, Grant Stone is a bit flatter

Both have unstructured toes and have been made on some amazing lasts. The Edward boot is built on the Grant Stone Leo last, which I absolutely love. It is one of the best lasts out there. It’s like a marriage between the Alden Trubalance and Barrie lasts. 

The new 602 last that Andrew used is updated from his older last, which was more rounded out in the toe. Between the two, the Parkhurst one is a little bit more narrow. I have a wide foot, so I’m going to give a point to Grant Stone because their last is just phenomenal, but don’t get me wrong — I love both. 

I notice there is more arch support in the Parkhurst than in the Grant Stones. The Parkhurst is also taller by about a half inch, probably because of the arch support.

The upper on the Grant Stone is 5” inches, and the upper on the Parkhurst is 5.5”. 

Conclusion

Which one wins? 

I think they’re both phenomenal boots, and each brand is doing amazing things. I wanted to highlight subtle differences some might not notice when comparing similar builds like this and hopefully help you pick one out if you have been stuck looking at these for a while.

Please let me know what you think. I can’t pick a favorite because both of the guys from Parkhurst and Grant Stone are my friends, and I think they make amazing boots. 

Let’s keep the love of plain toe brown roughout boots alive!