James Bond Style: Reviewing the Rogue Territory Supply Jacket

Can you pull off James Bond’s jacket? I think you can.

The Supply Jacket from Rogue Territory has been popular since long before No Time to Die was finally released in 2021: it’s sleek, minimalist, and no frills, unlike most of its competitors. Sure, Barbour and Belstaff have their very famous waxed jackets but they’re British, they’re more expensive, and… look, I don’t think they’re that cool. They’re boxy, they’re long, they’re designed for rich people hunting foxes and look like it, and they’re so waxed that they permanently look like they’re dripping wet.

There I said it: I don’t love British waxed jackets and neither, it appears, does James Bond.  

I’ve worn this jacket from Manhattan to Mexico and we’re going to cover the look, the material, the fit, the price, and the pros and cons so you can make the right choice for you and this jacket that everyone won’t stop talking about. 

Material

• 10 oz waxed canvas
• Unlined
• Made in USA
• Very durable, ages wonderfully

The name is the Supply Jacket in Tan Ridgeline from Rogue Territory, a heritage apparel company.

If you haven’t heard that term before, heritage fashion is modeled after or inspired by clothes that America’s working class used to wear for work or outdoor activities about a hundred years ago. It’s clothing and footwear that are made with traditional, natural materials that are tough, thick, age well, and have a lot of longevity. The party line is that we used to buy clothes that were intended to last a long time and heritage fashion embodies that ethos. (Importantly, it looks cooler as it ages too.) 

Classic examples are thick leather boots, selvedge jeans, and waxed canvas.

What’s Waxed Canvas?

• Canvas is densely woven cotton
• Waxed canvas has a coat of wax applied to it that increases water resistance

It’s is a material with origins in seafaring; sailors noticed their sails caught more wind when they were wet, so to mimic that effect when it wasn’t raining they waxed them, making them less porous and able to catch more air. This had the added benefit of making rain roll right off of it, keeping the sails lighter than they were during unwaxed rainstorms. 

Eventually, this strategy extended to jackets, tents, and bags. Especially when it’s waxed, canvas looks very cool as it ages — a lot of people sell old canvas bags at a profit because people just love the way they age so much. Canvas is also extremely resistant to abrasion and tears and in some ways it’s better than leather; I tore an old leather jacket open on a nail and it couldn’t be repaired, but that doesn’t happen to canvas.

A canvas’s thickness is measured by its weight in ounces per square yard. Most modern jeans are 11 or 12 ounces, selvedge denim is typically closer to 14 to 16 ounces, and while some waxed jackets are well over twenty ounces the Supply Jacket come in at ten, a little lighter (but still stiffer) than the average pair of jeans.

The Supply Jacket is fairly lightweight, so it’s a good weight for spring and fall, providing durability and water resistance without being too hard to break in or too restrictive with your ability to move.

But there’s a downside: unlined waxed canvas feels a little damp and clammy against the skin. You might think an unlined jacket like this will be more breathable, but the opposite is true: it feels nicer when there’s something between you and the shell. Of course, you can just wear a long sleeved shirt underneath.

Note that depending on the seasonal offerings, this jacket comes in a lot of other colors and materials like sashiko, denim, unwaxed selvedge canvas, twill, and more.

[Related: The 7 Best Waxed Jackets for Men]

Design

• Sleek and minimalist
• Two handwarmer pockets
• Very slim welt pocket on left chest, another hidden interior pocket in same spot on right chest 
• Both chest pockets too slim to hold much beyond a credit card

The design is very minimalist: just two hand warmer pockets, a very slim welt pocket on the left chest that’s only good for a phone or a wallet (but even those bulge noticeable), and there’s a little interior pocket on the right chest that’s about the same size.

Again, the jacket is unlined, so we suggest wearing a long sleeved shirt underneath unless it’s fairly chilly, in which case you won’t feel the stuffiness too much. Rogue Territory sells a version that’s lined with Japanese wool for an extra hundred bucks. 

Then there’s what I consider another potential problem with this jacket: the extra button hole. 

Apparently, this hole is a callback to when men wore pocket watches. The watch chain would run through here, and it’s become a signature of the Rogue Territory brand, adorning most of their jackets.

Most people will see it as an orphaned buttonhole, though, and you’ll regularly get comments from people who think there’s something wrong with your jacket. It’s so dopey that they even decided to cover it up when James McAvoy wore a grey Supply jacket in Split. 

Rogue Territory Supply Jacket Sizing 

• Slim fit
• Short length
• Slender chest
• Honestly, you should size up

It’s a cool jacket and all, but the fit will be a hindrance to a lot of guys. The ultra slim fit, the fact it’s unlined, the dumb pocket watch hole, and the lack of waist tabs to let you adjust the fit are the biggest issues.

This is a slim, short jacket. Very slim.

A lot of waxed jackets, like the ones you’ll find at Filson, have a looser and boxier fit designed for work. Rogue Territory’s cut is unselfconsciously modern and fashion forward, a little closer to a trucker jacket fit, but it’s even less forgiving than waxed trucker jackets like Flint and Tinder’s.

The ultra slim fit, the fact it’s unlined, the dumb pocket watch hole, and the lack of waist tabs to let you adjust the fit are the biggest issues.

The Supply Jacket is unforgiving on both less athletic round body types and more athletic, V-shaped body types. Unless you’re both a slim dude and like slim fits, I suggest you size up.

Another difference between the Supply jacket and classic trucker jackets is the fact there are no buttons at the waist to adjust the fit, so sizing up can produce a boxy looking jacket. It’s an annoying fit. I have friends who have bought the jacket and had the waist altered at their dry cleaners, which I’d honestly recommend if you love everything else.

Rogue Territory Sizing Comparison (Large vs XL)

I agonized over the fit so much that I went ahead and bought two sizes: L and XL.

I’m 6 feet tall and 190 pounds with a (slightly) athletic build. While my actual chest measurement is 44.5 inches, I typically fit into shirts and jackets sized 42. 

My jacket length is 30.5″, shoulders 19.5″, sleeve length 27.5″. If you compared that with the measurements Rogue Territory gives for the Supply Jacket above, you’d think that none of their sizes would fit my arms, shoulders, or torso length, but I think both the Large and. XL look good on me. Let’s look at some pictures.

• The Large Supply Jacket is listed with a 43-inch chest.
• The XL is listed with a 45-inch chest.

The Large, which I’m wearing in all the photos of myself here, looks better when unbuttoned but it’s tight around the chest when buttoned. The XL looks better buttoned up, but billows around the waist a little when unbuttoned — and there are no side buttons to cinch the waist slimmer on more V-shaped guys.

As It Ages

• The canvas will stretch about half an inch
• The canvas will soften
• It’ll bunch up where it gets flexed a lot, like the back of the knee on jeans. This will shorten the sleeves.
• If it’s loose at the waist, this area will soften and won’t billow as much

If my Large were a millimeter smaller, I’d hate it, but I think it looks fine when unbuttoned. That said, if I could do it all over again I’d get the XL and have a tailor taper the waist just a little. 

In summary: the sizing is frustrating, and if you’re overweight you should just forget about it. I treat this garment like a leather jacket: something I’d never want to button up anyway, so it’s no big deal that it’s too tight when I do.

How to Wear the Rogue Territory Supply Jacket

One last thing I want to say about the fit and design is that a big upside of this slimmer, modern fit and minimalist look make this relatively easy to dress up.

Waxed jackets can sometimes be criticised as overly casual. Now, I would say the point of a waxed jacket is that it’s a great, elevated, casual look. It’s not formal, but it looks high quality, like a great pair of boots.

With the Supply Jacket’s “benefits” of being slim, collared, buttoned, and bells-and-whistles-free, it’s not hard to wear smart casual: I took it to a Manhattan steakhouse with a casual button up and slim jeans. (In retrospect, that might have been too casual, but it’s the best waxed jacket if you are wearing one to a steakhouse.)

Price

$325.

Given James Bond drives 300,000-dollar cars and wears thousand-dollar shoes, this is not a bad price to wear part of his wardrobe.

Sure, it’s unlined 10-ounce canvas, but it’s made in America and under 350 bucks, which is very rare for a waxed jacket. (See my list of the best waxed jackets to see what I mean.)

I don’t think the price is bad at all. For an American-made waxed jacket, it’s far from the highest price.

Pros & Cons

Let’s with up the pros and cons. I like this jacket, it’s nearly perfect, but there are a few things that kinda irk me, but we’ll start with the pros. 

Pros

• Durable
• Ages beautifully
• Water resistant
• Modern fit
• Wide range of colors and materials
• Good price for the quality
• Smarter than most waxed jackets
• Made in USA
• James Bond wears it!

Cons

• The “pocket watch” hole can be off-putting
• Unreasonably slim fitting
• Unlined, so it doesn’t feel good on bare arms
• Chest pockets are practically decorative; most items bulge out
• Waxed canvas doesn’t breathe very well; if it gets warm out, you’ll sweat buckets

Wrapping Up

So, do you think you can pull off James Bond’s jacket?

The major downside is the slim fit. Most guys should size up. If you’re dedicated, have a tailor bring in the waist or attach button cinches there.

If you’re slim enough, it’s a very solid buy. It’s worth it for the bragging rights alone, but as long as it’s under 350 dollars I’ll keep swearing up and down that it’s great value for an American made item. Plus it dresses up pretty well and it’ll only get better with age.

If you want more garments that are built to last and look better as they do, grab this.