Top Grain’s Better Than Full Grain, and More Leather Myth Busting

Chromexcel leather at Horween

Click around the internet and most articles on leather types split them into three categories: full grain, top grain, and genuine leather. Full grain is made from the top layer of the animal’s hide, top grain has the top layer sanded away, and genuine leather is reviled the most, since it has no grain and … Read more

Interview With Sagara, Indonesia’s Best Known Bootmaker

Sagara Legacy boot

Anyone who has spent a lot of time reading about the world’s best boots has no doubt come across one exceptional country over and over again: Indonesia. We know about American, Italian, French, and Dutch bootmakers, but when looking for boot hubs outside of Europe and the U.S., Indonesia consistently appears at the top of … Read more

What Exactly Is a Last, and Why Is It So Important?

shoe last factory in Alfeld on the Leine

If you’re new to boot fandom or even if you’re not, you might be a little confused by the way people talk about lasts. A lot goes into making a good boot and if you want to make sure you get your moneys’ worth, you’ll learn what you can about the leather (tier, grain, tannage) … Read more

How the Heck Do I Take Care of Chromexcel Leather?

Wolverine 1000 mile loose grain

These days, it seems like every other boot on the market is made from Chromexcel® leather. It’s on everything from mid-range boots like the Wolverine 1000 Mile and the Allen Edmonds Higgins Mill to $600+ boots like the Alden Indy 403 and the brown Viberg Service boot. Low-end, mid-range, and high-end boot companies alike are … Read more

How Japan Made Red Wing Their Own

red wing japan featured

When Red Wing decided to take their brand global in the 1970s, they had a problem. The boot behemoth had built its name as the go-to workboot for middle America as footwear that’s pretty stylish but above all functional and durable, whether you toil in Minnesota iron mines or offshore oil rigs. Most businesses prosper … Read more

Why Are There So Many Great Indonesian Boots? An Interview With Santalum

Santalum service boot

A lot of people like their formal clothing handmade in Italy or France, but many guys who have swung by Bangkok or Hoi An to pick up a tailor-made suit have trouble telling the difference. The same goes for boots, but finding the right shoemaker can be a little tougher for men with discerning tastes. … Read more

Goodyear Welt Vs. Blake Stitch Vs. Cement — Which is Best?

Meermin Chestnut Country Calf storm welt

Even though it doesn’t refer to leather quality, or style, or country of origin, or the material of the sole, it’s fair to say that the words “Goodyear welt” have become synonymous with high quality footwear. In fact, the number one online forum for discussing high-end men’s boots on Reddit decided to take the term … Read more

The Ultimate Guide to How Boots Should Fit

thursday vanguards heel

“Which way do they stretch? Are they even going to stretch? I know I’m a size 11.” The pressure is on when you try on a new pair of shoes in the store and things can get even more confusing with boots, since you have you can’t test the toe box, you have to consider … Read more