Review: Meermin’s Loafers Are Probably the Best Value on Earth

When assessing the value of a piece of footwear, three concerns are at the top of the list: the quality of the materials, the quality of the craftsmanship, and where it’s made. (And then how hard it is to order them, which is what handicaps a lot of the small made-to-order brands out there.)

With all that in mind, there’s a pretty good case to be made that Meermin Mallorca makes the world’s best value loafers. Even if they aren’t actually made in Mallorca.

They’re so well priced that over the past three years I’ve picked up three pairs that I’m reviewing here: the tassel loafer on the dressy Ron last, my penny loafer on the unlined Nova last, and the latest and most American Sway last. 

I realized that the tale of Meermin’s progress into the American market is a tale of European versus American footwear. It’s a story of a Spanish brand figuring out what works and doesn’t work when selling loafers in the US.

But first, a handy summary of this review: what’s good and bad about Meermin’s many loafers?

Meermin’s Loafers: Pros and Cons

I like to write long and verbose articles about loafers, but I also know that you’re really just here to get the pros and cons as quickly as you can. So here’s a summary of everything that comes after this section!

What I Like

• Unmatched value
• Leathers from brand name tanneries
• Durable and resoleable Goodyear welt construction 
• Good range of colors and styles
• Easy to order online
• Lightweight and breathable
• Different options for lining and last

Downsides But Not Dealbreakers

• UK sizing is hard to work out 
• Not everyone likes the leather soles
• The dressiest Ron loafer is awfully slim
• No wide widths available 

Comparing the Different Meermin Loafers: Ron vs Nova vs Sway

Meermin’s bad at naming their products; they just give them a series of numbers.

But the three loafers I’ve been wearing are their 101412 Tassel Loafer in brown suede on the Ron last, the 514511 unlined Penny Loafer on the Nova last, and the newest one, the 514040 Penny Loafer on the Sway last.

(Note that a last is the foot shaped mold you build a shoe or boot on; it dictates the shape and fit of the finished product.)

The Ron Last: Slim and European

Exclusively used on their loafers, the Ron has the dressiest silhouette of Meermin’s loafers.

I seldom dress up, so I got mine in brown suede, but the sleekness and pointiness makes for a loafer that’s not only hard to wear with shorts (something I think about in loafer season, after all), but it’s also just… hard to wear. It’s narrow, and that’s because it’s their earliest and most European loafer.

The Ron is almond-toed, narrow across the vamp, and low on the instep, running close to the foot to minimize the chances of a loose fit.

In other words, this is a very European last. Over on The Continent, guys tend to wear their loafers tight and build them sleek, and the Ron is the ideal last for guys looking to dress their loafers up. Mine are in a more casual suede, but there are plenty of Ron loafers in dressy calfskin you can wear with a suit.

But I’ve got to say: I don’t like the Ron last. It’s a good example of Meermin’s achilles heel: they’ve spent more time selling to Europeans than to Americans, and Europeans prefer slimmer loafers. This American found it to pinch my toes uncomfortably.

The Nova Last: Unlined and Versatile

The Nova is only used on their unlined loafers, and it’s positioned as the more casual alternative to the Ron: it still fits close to the heel, but the forefoot is more generous and round.

The good news is that it’s not uncomfortable! I didn’t experience any discomfort in this, especially because unlined suede will stretch to your foot’s shape quite easily.

Potential bad news: it’s still a pretty European-looking loafer. It’s less pointy, more versatile, and more comfortable than the Ron, but the refined toe and low profile still makes it a little hard to wear with shorts.

On the other hand, the design isn’t quite dressy enough to take to a suit, either. But for smart casual summer looks, the Nova’s a great loafer, especially because the lack of lining make it Meermin’s most breathable.

It also comes in far more colors than any of Meermin’s other footwear, so you can find a Nova loafer for any fit.

The Sway Last: Roomy, Casual, and American

Meermin has since released their most American loafer last, called the Sway, which I’d recommend if you want the most casual loafer from this brand. Or if your mental image of loafers is closer to hardy New England styles than suit-ready Italian styles.

The gentleman running their New York store explicitly told me the Sway loafer is a direct response to Americans’ complaints that their loafers are too slim.

I grabbed a pair in brown suede and while the Nova fit me really well, the Sway is my favorite Meermin loafer because it has the roomiest toe and the most casual look — yet the leather sole and lack of beefrolls mean it’s not too hard to dress up, either.

I couldn’t match the Sway with a full suit (I tried them with my summery tropical wool suit and they just looked too chunky), but from t-shirts to tweed, it’s the loafer I find myself reaching for the most.

Just note that while the Sway loafers are the best for casual wear, they’re lined with sheepskin so as to give them more volume and structure. That means that while they still have breathable leather soles, the Sway loafers won’t be quite as breathable as the unlined Nova loafer.

How Meermin’s Loafers Are Made

So why all the hubbub about these loafers? Let us count the reasons.

The Leathers

There are other inexpensive loafer brands out there, but not with the leathers that Meermin has. Enthusiasts know there are good and bad tanneries out there, and while a lot of brands don’t name where they source their leathers from, Meermin does. (Well, except for their Shell Cordovan.)

When they’re making dressy shoes, they use box calf from France’s Tannerie du Puy, which is universally considered among the best sources of the world’s dressiest leather. Tannerie d’Annonay is another French producer that’s about as well known, and they’re both owned by the same company (Hermes). 

(OK, I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that Germany’s Weinheimer tannery might be the world’s best when it comes to black box calf, which is what’s used at Carmina and Bridlen.)

Meanwhile, it’s a big deal that the suede on most of the Nova loafers comes from Charles F Stead, universally considered the best suede producer on Earth. That’s why I visited them; seriously, they’re undisputed.

That said, the suede on my Ron tassel loafers comes from Italy’s Sciarada, a respected facility that focuses on suede as well. 

Meermin’s Loafer Construction 

The loafers are good value because of the quality of the leather and the fact that they’re Goodyear welted. That’s a way of making footwear that’s very durable, water resistant, and can be resoled as many times as you like.

Loafers at this price point are more likely to be cemented (the sole is glued on like a sneaker) or Blake stitched, which is lighter and more flexible than a Goodyear welt. Blake stitches can also be resoled, you’re just a bit less likely to find a cobbler who can resole a Blake stitch, and you can’t resole them quite as many times.

I still love Blake stitched loafers, don’t get me wrong. The sole’s way less likely to come off than a sneaker, and they have the best balance of durability, flexibility, and lightness. Just note that Blake stitches are cheaper to make than the tougher Goodyear welt, so distinguishing between them is important when assessing Meermin’s value.

Sizing Meermin’s Loafers

• Meermin uses UK sizing, so:
• Subtract 1.5 from your Brannock size; that’s probably two whole sizes from your sneakers
• The Sway loafers are a half size smaller than my Nova and Ron loafers

Sizing Meermin’s loafers is hard! This is a European brand, and they use UK sizing. 

My sneakers are size 12US and my Meermin loafers are size 10UK. The Sway is roomier, so I went down to a 9.5UK.

Step 1: Work Out Your Brannock Size

That’s the device they use to measure your foot at the shoe store. Go and pretend you’re shopping for Nikes and get sized, because I’ve never met anyone who actually knew what their “Brannock” (aka “true”, aka “American”) size is. Guys usually call their sneaker size their shoe size, but sneakers run small, so the number on your sneakers will be higher.

To be more clear:

My American Sizes

• 12 US: The size of most of my sneakers
• 11.5 US: My Brannock size (aka “true size”)
• 11 US: My usual boot size.
• 10.5US: This is sometimes my loafer size.

My UK Sizes

• 11 UK: My sneaker size.
• 10.5 UK: My boot size.
• 10 UK: My typical loafer size.
• 9.5 UK: My size in the Sway loafer.

In UK sizing, which Meermin uses, I went with a 10 UK for the Ron and Nova loafers, and a 9.5 UK for the roomier Sway. But I have a low instep that makes laceless footwear tricky; most guys would be fine with a 10 UK on the Sway.

Meermin’s Advice on Sizing the Sway Loafer

I went to their store in Manhattan to try on a few sizes, because my feet are a little unusual: I have a low instep (the area on top of the foot by the ankle) so laceless footwear can be dicy for me.

He suggested I size two whole sizes down from my US Brannock to a 9.5 (note that’s a 9.5UK), though a more normal foot would probably be fine sizing 1.5 down from Brannock. Kyle followed up via e-mail with this advice:

The Sway last is definitely on the wider side of things. We typically recommend going 1 size down from your “normal” or “average” size, but this can vary depending on foot shape. But even if you have a wide toe set (around a EE or EEE) I would still recommend a half size down from your normal.

Mind you, these are UK sizes — usually you convert by subtracting 1 from your US size. So if you’re ordering online you want the UK size.

Those with very high insteps might find this last won’t work as it’s tongue angle is somewhat shallow. Narrow ankles may also have some trouble staying locked in in the heel.

Every foot shape is different, as are loafer shapes, so we hope for a marriage of the two with no heel slip, slight pressure on the instep, and a hugged snug fit in the toe box. If those are checked off, you have a match.

A Tip for Loose Loafers

Note that I’m a big fan of these suede tongue pads to help loose loafers fit better; they cost ten bucks and saved me from a loose fit countless times. Way better than heel fillers.

Meermin’s Price (Compared to Competitors)

Unless you’re getting cordovan uppers, all these Meermin loafers cost about $215. 

I’ve told you they’re great value, which they achieve by making them in Shanghai. But here’s how Meermin stacks up to other brands I own that you can research. I’ve reviewed most of them (they’re linked) and these are all Goodyear welted as well, unless stated otherwise.

• Astorflex ($250): Unnamed tannery, less durable construction, made in Italy.
• Allen Edmonds ($450): Similar leathers, made in America.
• Grant Stone (~$400): Similar leathers, also made in China, albeit with a heavier and more durable build. 
• J FitzPatrick ($325): Tougher build, less fancy tanneries, made in Spain.
• Oak Street Bootmakers ($348): Blake stitched, made in America, genuine handsewn construction, and much more casual.
• Thursday Boot Co ($180): Blake stitched, less fancy tanneries, made in Mexico.

You’re not wrong if you think the lower price of some of these is worth the tradeoffs. All of these options are resoleable and awesome and I own them and I wear them. I don’t keep loafers I don’t like.

But compared to Meermin, no one else is doing leathers this good with construction this good at a better price. Even Indian brands like Blkbrd Shoemaker don’t make loafers with such renowned leathers at a lower price (though their loafers with local leather are cheaper).

OK, there’s an exception: Indonesia. Some, but not all brands from the region do loafers with more skillful construction like hand lasting and hand welting. But you need to send them your foot measurements and wait months for them to be made. It goes without saying that returns are harder as well.

So it might be more accurate to say that no one else is doing leathers this good with construction this good at a better price, unless you’re willing to wait months for your loafers and you’re comfortable without a speedy policy for returns — or any policy at all.

But I’m open to your suggestions for alternatives if you think I’ve missed someone important! 

How Meermin’s Loafers Have Changed 

I read a lot of reviews of these loafers in the research phase of this piece, and most of them were pretty old. That’s why I wanted to add this section to let you know what’s changed about this brand and their products.

They’re Easier to Buy

You used to have to get your shoes shipped over from Europe, making returns and exchanges a hassle — not something you want to deal with when buying footwear online, especially loafers.

But now Meermin has a store in New York City and they ship from… some say they ship from the store, others say they come from a distribution center elsewhere in the US. The point is that today, these are now as easy to buy as any other US brand.

They’re Easier to Return and Exchange 

Returns have gotten easier as well, and they have a really cool policy: if you elect to pay a small surcharge at checkout ($2.98 right now), then your return will be “free” if you need it. I mean, it’s not “free,” because you paid for it, but you get what I mean.

If you don’t pay that extra fee, then returning the shoes will cost you about $12. I think this is a super reasonable policy that lets you save money if you want to roll the dice on your fit — or if you already know what it is. And if you wind up needing to return your shoes and didn’t pay for the insurance, it’s not like the shipping cost is that expensive; given the size and weight of a shoebox, I often see returns costing $20 or more. 

They’ve Added More Lasts

Most brands will have one last for their loafers, meaning they’ll all fit the same way. If you don’t like the way they fit, you just have to pick another brand. 

But Meermin sells their loafers in three lasts right now: the dressier Ron, the versatile Nova, and the casual Sway.

I don’t like the too-tapered Ron tassel loafers but the Nova, while still pretty tapered, fits great. I’m really fond of the Sway last, though, because it’s nice and wide at the toe, which is atypical for a European brand. (Indeed, it took them over twenty years to get around to making this more American-friendly last!) 

Wrapping Up: Yes, They’re Worth It

Listen: Meermin’s loafers are a really, really good buy. It’s fine if you don’t like to buy stuff that’s made in China, but if you have no issue with that, then there’s very little to quibble with here.

I spent a long time trying to find an unlined loafer that’s made with suede uppers and a leather sole because that’s simply the perfect build for a summer loafer, and Meermin delivered. And yet you can get lining, or a different sole, or a dressier upper if you prefer. 

In other words: after decades of finding their footing, Meermin has arrived.