Thursday Boots President Tobacco Review: Rugged and Resilient for $199

Welcome to the best review of Thursday Boots’ President: not only did I wear these while hosting the World’s Strongest Man, I even wore them to the tannery in Mexico where the leather is made.

After many months and many countries of wear, it’s time to review Thursday Boot Company’s President Boot. At this point, I’ve traveled to boot factories, one-man workshops, and tanneries in a dozen countries, so I’m good at assessing boots like this.

I’ll do a deep dive into the President boot’s leather, construction, comfort, value, and the pros and cons so you know if these are right for you.

In summary, I found them to punch far above their weight: they have a versatile aesthetic, a wide enough variety of leathers for any use case, and a hardwearing welted construction that keeps you dry in the rain and allows infinity resoles.

Thursday President Boot Review: The Pros and Cons

You’re a busy guy, so I’m putting the summary pros and cons of this review right here at the top. (But you should still read the rest of the review; I took all these pictures for it.)

Thursday Boots President Boot Pros

• Very versatile: the sleek-but-not-too-sleek look goes with anything 
• Excellent value: Goodyear welted boots like this rarely cost under $300
• Wide range of leathers to suit any use case from the office to outdoors
• Water resistant: While you can’t stand in a pond fishing in these, I found them waterproof enough to keep my toes dry in any kind of storm
• Longlasting: Not just because the leather’s tough, but because it can be resoled as many times as you need
• Comfortable: The combination of foam insoles, heat activated counters, and pliable leather means an easier break in than traditional leather boots
• Available in EEE widths

Downsides But Not Dealbreakers

• Some guys might prefer chunkier builds that are closer to a work boot
• No ASTM ratings: if you need something with a steel toe or electrical hazard resistance for work, this isn’t for you.
• Shock absorbing foam in the insole: it reduces the break in period, but prefer the harder feeling of a traditional leather sole
• No Commando soles available: the President has a flat rubber sole with recessed lugs; if you want one of those big beefy soles, you’ll need to check out one of the “Storm King” Captains

[Read my Review of Thursday Captain Boot HERE]

Thursday’s President Boot Style

• Plain toe
• Low profile; not too chunky for fitted pants
• Some have speed hooks (quicker to lace), some don’t (cleaner look)
• Flat rubber sole with recessed lugs is both grippy and sleek, enhancing versatility

One of the company’s first three boots when they launched in 2014 (the other two are the Captain and the Diplomat), the President is a good example of the company’s approach to design: a hybrid that’s neither a bulky work boot nor a dainty dress boot.

It’s got a low profile, a flat sole (it has grip, the lugs are just recessed) and a streamlined design that experienced boot enthusiasts might call a service boot, as this look is a little reminiscent of boots worn by World War 2 service members.

All of which is to say: it doesn’t look like a traditional work boot, but it’s not pretentious.

It’s often compared with Thursday’s most popular model, the Captain boot, so I made a video above comparing the two. You can read the whole article comparing the Captain and President if you like, but the main takeaway is that the Captain has a toecap and the President doesn’t. It’s worth adding that because it’s more popular, the Captain is also available in more leathers (and even a different sole) to choose from.

But personally, I prefer the President: the lack of toecap makes for a simpler, more minimalist look that I think is a little more versatile. Whichever of these two boots you go with, the aesthetic looks as good with a pair of jeans and a t-shirt as it does with khakis and a blazer — just pick the right leather for what you’re using them for.

The Thursday President Boots Leather

• 10 kinds of leather ranging from outdoorsy to smart
• Made by Lefarc Tannery from US Cattle
• “Rugged and Resilient” options are oil tanned for extra durability 
• “Classic” leathers have a little more shine and are easier to dress up

When I first wrote this review, and also now as I’m updating it a couple of years later (hi from the future), the President is available in ten kinds of leather. Your options range from waterproof suedes to their smarter “Classic” leathers to their extra oily “Rugged and Resilient” leathers. My “Tobacco” leather falls in the latter category, and I picked it because it’s the most popular leather for this boot.

Without getting too deep into the chemistry of leather tanning (check out my visit to a tannery for that!), the deal with the clumsily-named “Rugged and Resilient” leathers is that the leathers are infused with a ton of extra oils and waxes at the tannery. There are three results of this “oil tanning” process:

1. the leather is extra water resistant (oil and wax are hydrophobic)
2. the leather is extra moist, so it doesn’t need much care and conditioning
3. the leather looks extra cool: the oil and wax produces highs and lows in the color
4. the leather looks extra casual: it’s cool, but it also looks hard wearing.

Just keep in mind that the Rugged leathers are more stiff from the get go, since they’re more hardwearing and (I believe) a little thicker; you might find them a little harder to break in. It’s always a good idea to leave the house with a spare pair of shoes the first few times you wear new boots, just in case your feet get sore.

If you want boots that are easier to wear with slacks, you can get Presidents in one of the “Classic” leathers, which have a little more shine and smoothness.

The “Classic” boots don’t have speed hooks at the top of the laces like the Rugged ones, which makes sense: speed hooks make a boot faster to lace up, but they dress a boot down.

For a look that’s right down the middle as far as dressiness goes, consider one of the suede Presidents (if they’re on offer). Thursday have some neat “Weathersafe” suedes that repel water and stains so you don’t have to stress about suede care — just make sure you are indeed getting a Weathersafe suede if it’s what you’re after, as sometimes there will be regular snuff suedes on sale.

The Thursday Boots President Construction

• Resoleble Goodyear welt
• Steel shank for stability
• Cork midsole for comfort
• Layer of Antimicrobial poron for additional shock absorption
• Leather lining

For those new to boots (welcome!), the leather and the sole are attached with a Goodyear welt. Unlike your sneakers, which are glued (“cemented”) together, a Goodyear welt is a complex process that produces a very water-resistant boot that can be resoled when you wear it through the rubber outsole.

The nice thing about the outsole is that it’s flat when viewed from the side, but it’s dotted with recessed rubber studs that confer a surprising amount of grip.

Between the outsole and the upper, you’ll find most of the traditional components of a hardwearing boots: a layer of stiff vegetable-tanned leather for the midsole, a layer of cork under the insole to improve comfort and moisture regulation, and a steel shank to improve stability and limit the risk of foot pain when you’re spending all day on your feet.

Then there’s less traditional component: a layer of Poron, a foamy substance usually found in athletic shoes to absorb shock. One of the most frustrating things about the more old-fashioned construction you’ll find in traditional brands like Red Wing is that the shock absorption is bad and the break in is tough. The foam insole helps to counter both of these longstanding issues with boots, and this modern approach to comfort is a big reason for Thursday’s success.

[Related: Red Wing vs Thursday: Which Is the Better Cap Toe Boot?]

How to Size Thursday Boot Company President Boot’

• Order half size down from your sneaker size
• Available in Standard (D) and Wide (E/EE) fits
• Little to no break-in
• Poron sole offers great shock absorption
• Soft leather lining

If you’re new to ordering boots, you should know two things: your sneakers are probably bigger than your real size, and your boots are probably smaller. 

Get yourself measured on a Brannock device in a shoe store and go down to the nearest half-size. I’m a frustrating 11.75, and I found the 11.5s comfortable: a little roomy, but ideal for boot socks in cooler (ie. boot) weather.

The President also comes in an extra wide version that fits EE widths. Their site claims that the “Standard” width fits D and E (normal and wide) widths and the Wide fits EE and EEE widths, but people tell me that the it’s more like the Wide width is for E and EE feet.

Are Thursday Presidents Comfortable?

Yeah!

They don’t feel like sneakers: the point of a boot is to be more stable than a squishy sneaker, thereby making it a little easier on your foot muscles if you’re on your feet all day.

This means most boots have crummy shock absorption and a tough break in as the leather components mold to your foot’s shape.

By adding a foam insole and using leather that’s a little thinner than the toughest logging boots, they’ve managed to make boots that are way more comfortable than they used to be.

You still might get a couple of blisters on the first few wears, and you still can’t work out in your boots, but if you try other boot brands you’ll quickly understand what I’m talking about when I say these are lighter, softer, and closer to sneakers than anything else.

The Thursday Boot Company President Boot’s Price

• $199

A leather boot with Goodyear welt construction would usually set you back at least $300, but Thursday sells them for $199.

Whether you love or hate the look (or the foam insole, or the fact they’re made in Mexico, etc), there’s no denying Thursday Boot Company offers the best value in the game. I’ve even reviewed Mexican boot brands that cost over twice the price.

The price makes them accessible, and it’s undoubtedly why Thursday Boot Company has managed to bring the world of Goodyear welted footwear to a larger audience. I think many guys thought boots were out of their budget until they found this company. And I think that’s cool.

Thursday President Boot Alternatives

Part of the reason you came here might have been to see how the Thursday President Boots stack up against similar boots in this weight class.

If you’re looking for something similar but not identical…

Chunkier Alternative: Thursday’s Hero 

If you like everything but the sleek look, check out Thursday’s Hero — after you read my banger review of this boot.

It’s taller, has the luggy sole you can’t get on Presidents, and it’s rounder at the toe. It’s just about everything you’d like about the President but it looks more like an old combat boot.

Traditionally Made: Red Wing Heritage’s Blacksmith 

It’s a good $120 more expensive and you can very much expect the break in and the bad shock absorption and lower versatility of traditional boots — but if you want that more traditional experience, the Blacksmith is a solid option.

Luxury: Grant Stone’s Diesel

Available in a wide array of leathers — sometimes you can even get ’em in ostrich or kangaroo — Grant Stone’s flagship boot is over twice the price, but it’s made with the kind of skill and materials that would ordinarily cost triple the price.

Grant Stone are made in China but everything about them is on par with very high-end bootmakers like Alden, who charge over $700 for their boots.

Final Thoughts on My Thursday Presidents

That concludes my Thursday Boot’s President review. Have I said “Thursday Boots President review” enough times for Google to see this article? I hope so. And I hope you found this useful as well! As you can see, the boot’s clean looks, hardwearing leather, longlasting construction, and bonkers low price make it easy to recommend.

Now and then I’ll hear from boot nerds who take issue with how much I recommend these boots because they’re not hand lasted and hand welted like my Indonesian boots are — processes that would mean each boot would take days to make and jack up at least four times.

My point is that there are reasons some guys pay four figures for boots, but the vast majority of people are not so interested in 19th century cordwaining that they’re happy to pay a small fortune and wait a year for them to arrive (and then another year for them to become comfortable).

Thursday makes the best value boots on the market, not just because they’re Goodyear welted and under $200, but because you can wear them in so many situations because they’re so darn versatile — you’re just getting a lot of boot for your buck.