Red Wing vs Thursday Boots | My Thoughts After 5 Years of Wear
This is a showdown between the two biggest casual American boot brands, and they’re actually both the market’s best value option — in different ways.
In one corner, we have Minnesota’s Red Wing, founded in 1905, and their iconic cap toe boot: the Iron Ranger.
The challenger is the newcomer Thursday Boot Company, founded in 2014, and their own bestselling cap toe: the Captain.
I’ve worn the hell out of both of these boots for over 5 years. My Iron Rangers were the second pair of boots I ever bought, and I grabbed first Captains in 2017 — and I’ve picked up several more versions of the boot since.
So who comes out on top: the time-tested traditionalist or an industry-disrupting new guy?
Key Takeaways: Thursday Boots vs Red Wing
Both are durable, water resistant, stylish, and resoleable.
Thursday’s advantages over Red Wing are they have more sizes, more widths, more options for leathers and soles, better shock absorption, and their sleeker look is more modern and versatile. They’re the best value as well, costing over $150 less than Red Wing.
You might prefer Red Wing if you value thicker leather, a chunkier look, or the fact that they’re made in the United States — and you don’t mind the $350 price tag. Just remember that the voluminous look isn’t great with tapered pants and that because of the extra thick leather components, Red Wings are much harder to break in.
Why Trust Us?
At Stridewise, I’ve been reviewing durable footwear and apparel since 2018, accruing over 100 reviews on this website and millions of views on our YouTube channel.
I first compared these two brands in 2018 but because it’s so important to get this right, I posted this updated review after six more years of wear testing. In addition to vastly increasing the amount of boots I’d worn, in the intervening years I focused on improving my knowledge base by visiting factories and tanneries all over the world and even making my own boots by hand in Guatemala.
Since I’ve also picked up a Master’s degree in Journalism, I know that research should include more than my own experiences, so I’ve also visited the headquarters of both brands in Minnesota and New York City, interviewed Red Wing’s product designer and Thursday’s CEO and Creative Director, I’ve filmed in several of their stores to grill their managers about sizing and components, and even traveled to Mexico and Minnesota to see where they’re made.
Get reviews of more durable casual stuff on YouTube
Pros and Cons: Thursday Boots & Red Wing
We put that summary up top in the yellow box but here are some extra easy to scan bullet points in case you need to get out of here.
Thursday Boots Pros
- More versatile: a low profile work boot/dress boot hybrid that’s much easier to dress up or down, especially given the range of leathers.
- More leathers: over a dozen leathers, colors, and suedes of different tannages to suit any occasion. You can pick flat or luggy soles as well.
- More fits and widths: three widths and sizes run from 6 to 16, versus Red Wing’s span of 7 to 14 with just 5 half sizes and two widths.
- $150 less expensive; an undeniable advantage.
- Easy break in
- Better shock absorption
A groundbreaking boot that combines dress boots and casual boots for a versatile, go-anywhere piece of footwear that's fully resoleable.
Thursday Boots Cons
- Thinner leather: makes for an easier break in but not ideal if you’re picking the meatiest boot.
- Almond shaped toe isn’t everyone’s cup of tea if they’re after a chunky look that’s better for loose trousers.
- Made in Mexico: doesn’t mean they’re lower quality, but some guys prefer Red Wing for being American made. (Note Thursday does have a US-made cap toe as well.)
Red Wing Boots Pros
- More casual, vintage Americana look: if you prefer an old timey work boot look.
- Heavyweight feel: the leather’s ~0.2 millimeters thicker and the insole is a heavy slab of old fashioned, veg tan leather.
- Made in the USA: Red Wing have their own factory in Minnesota.
- A long history: Thursday is founded in and made for the 21st century, Red Wing has been operated for over 120 years.
This resoleable boot hasn't changed in almost a hundred years, it's the ultimate casual lace up boot that deserves the reputation for quality.
Red Wing Boots Cons
- Very tough break in is the price of the thick leather.
- $150 more expensive.
- Bad shock absorption thanks to the traditional build and lack of midsole.
- Very hard to dress up: it’s the more casual boot.
Aesthetics
We’ve touched on the difference between these two boots. Basically, the Iron Ranger is a more classic-looking work boot, and the Captain is a more urban and city-friendly take on the World War II service boot, but it is definitely worthwhile to look at the details.
Red Wing Iron Ranger’s Aesthetics
- Thick, rugged leather
- Bulbous toe cap and round toe box
- Very casual
- Vibram mini lug sole
The appeal of this boot really comes from its timelessness; as part of Red Wing’s Heritage line, very little has changed about the about the Iron Ranger in the last few decades. It’s firmly a casual boot, particularly with its shiny nickel eyelets part and signature round, bulbous toecap. (It’s a true toecap, by the way, made with two layers of leather.)
The boot is pretty ubiquitous, and this is often the first boot a guy spends money on, although you’ll find plenty of people who don’t like it because they think the toecap is too clownish.
All of Red Wing’s rugged leathers are thick and give off that work-boot vibe.
Thursday Boots Captain’s Style
- More colorways and types of leathers
- Sleeker silhouette
- Hybrid dress boot/ work boot
- Sleek studded rubber sole or thicker Storm King soles
The Captain is much lighter and sleeker than the Red Wings. It makes sense: the Captain, like many of Thursday’s boots, is intended to be a hybrid work/dress boot. I think it succeeds, and it makes for a boot that’s far more versatile than the beefy Iron Ranger.
These are fully leather-lined boots with handsome combination-tanned leather and a studded rubber outsole that looks very flat from the side while still having a good grip.
Overall, no one can argue with the fact that these are two completely different aesthetics: the Iron Ranger is a true, chunky workboot, and the Captain is a more versatile hybrid that’s easy to dress up and dress down, particularly given its dressier leather options.
Of course, as I mentioned before, you can buy a ruggedized Captain if you go for the StormKing sole and one of their Rugged and Resilient leathers.
Further Reading
Thursday Captain Boot Review (2024) | Five Years Testing the “Anywhere Boot”
Check out my full review of the Captain.
Learn more →
Leather
Both use durable leathers from well-respected tanneries, but some notable differences affect the price, break-in, and style.
Red Wing’s Leather
- Full grain leather, I have the oiled tanned verison
- Thicker than the Captain
- Matte finish
- Hardy, outdoorsy
One of the coolest things about Red Wing is the fact that they tan their own leather at their tannery, SB Foot Tanning Co, which produces about 6 million linear feet of (mostly oil-tanned) leather per year.
My boots are a lot darker than you might expect Amber Harness to look, and that’s because I made the mistake of conditioning them with Obenauf’s, which shifted the color dramatically. (If you want to avoid that mistake, use this neatsfoot oil instead.)
And, honestly, these boots don’t really need much conditioning. It’s a very hardy, full grain, oil tanned leather, and generally, I think oil tanned leather is underrated. It’s hard to scratch or damage and it can go a long time without treatment. Here, it adds a lot to the boots’ rugged, outdoorsy feel, though a potential downside is that it’s quite matte and doesn’t shine easily — again, it’s hard to dress up an Iron Ranger.
Further Reading
How To Care For Red Wing Boots (and Every Leather They Come In)
Learn how to avoid darkening your Iron Rangers (like I did) in this guide to Red Wing conditioning.
Learn more →
Thursday Boot Company’s Leather
- Combination tanned leather
- Shinier, dressier
- Easier to dress up
- Contours the foot better
The Captain is available in a variety of leathers, including a few from Horween Leather Company, but most of their leathers are made by LeFarc tannery. My boots we’re showing in this article are Brown (aka Thursday Chrome) and Terracotta. They come from Tier 1 United States cattle, and it’s very similar to Horween’s Chromexcel®, which is a combination tanned with vegetable and chrome. (Learn more about the different ways of tanning boot leather here.)
Thursday gives you way more options, so that adds to the versatility. They have waterproof suede options, and just in case you like the sound of oil-tanned, they have what they call their Rugged and Resilient line, which has similar properties: lots of extra oil so they need minimal upkeep and can handle all sorts of weather.
Their most popular leathers are the Brown and the Black Matte, which are both “rugged and resilient.” I will note that on Thursday Chrome, the leather finish can scratch away if you’re wearing them too hard; that happened on my first pair many years ago. They’ve since come out with the Rugged and Resilient ones and some suede and roughout ones, and those are more or less scratch-proof.
Again, it’s considerably easier to dress up these more lustrous leathers than the more matte Iron Rangers.
I will note that the leather on the Thursday boot is slightly thinner than the Red Wing, but we’re talking about a difference of about 0.1 millimeters here, which won’t really make a difference as far as durability is concerned. It does, though, make for a much better break in, and it contours to the foot more easily.
Construction
Both are resoleable, Goodyear welted boots. The sort of “classic” traditional Goodyear welted boot has multiple layers of leather: leather insole and midsole, and sometimes outsole as well. But these boots deviate from the classic construction in different ways.
Red Wing
- Rubber outsole, cork filler, leather insole, and no midsole
- 270-degree Goodyear welt construction
- Bad shock absorption
Older models of the Iron Ranger have the infamously slippery nitrile cork sole but, if you bought yours anytime after summer 2018, you probably have the low-profile (but still grippy) Vibram mini-lug seen above. No matter when you buy them, though, they’ll have a cork fille, steel shank, and leather insole.
Everything is stitched together is a 270-degree Goodyear welt, which makes it easy to resole but is a little less water resistant than a 360-degree Goodyear welt. These all markers of a quality boot.
Further Reading
Red Wing Iron Ranger Boots Review: 6 Years In the Ultimate Casual Boot
Read my original Iron Ranger review.
Learn more →
[Read my original Red Wing Iron Ranger review!]
Thursday Boot Company
- Rubber outsole, cork midsole, leather insole
- 360-degree Goodyear welt
- More water resistant
- EVA comfort strip
The rubber outsole on the Captain has recessed lugs and offers similar flexibility and grip to the Vibram mini-lugs on the Iron Rangers. The stitching along the welt is a lot subtler on this boot (again, helping the versatility), plus it has a full 360-degree Goodyear welt construction, which means it’s more water resistant. The Captain also has a cork midsole and steel shank, and then something different: a Dura EVA comfort strip. It’s a material often used in athletic sneakers, and it makes for a boot that feels softer and bouncier than your regular heritage workboot.
The feeling of these soles is one of the biggest differences between these two boots. Even though they both have the cork midsole that molds to the shape of your foot over time and the steel shank for arch support, the Iron Ranger has crummy shock absorption — it feels like you’re walking around on hardwood. A lot of people like the old-fashioned workboot feel of the Iron Ranger (it does feel like a boot made a hundred years ago, which is a draw for some folks), but I definitely prefer the shock absorption of the Captain.
Between that and the full 360-degree welt, I’d give the sole of the Captain the edge here.
[Learn more: The 6 Kinds of Boot Soles You Should Know About.]
Fit & Sizing
- Order down a half size
- Thursday offers more sizes
- Red Wing‘s fit is more voluminous
- Thursday contours the foot more closely; better shock absorption
Sizing was simple for both boots: they both run half a size large. I’m an 11.5 and I ordered an 11 in both, which fit great. Thursdays come in a slightly larger range of sizes (6 to 15) than Red Wing (7 to 14).
Comfort-wise, as I mentioned, I prefer the shock absorption on the Captains to the Iron Rangers, and I feel Thursday has better arch support as well. The Captains are also sleeker, so they cradle the foot a bit better, while the Iron Ranger is more roomy (they use a more voluminous last), so it depends on what you like.
[Further Reading: How to Size Thursday Boots]
Price
Red Wing
- $349.99
These will run you $349.99 no matter if you buy them on Red Wing’s site, Amazon, Zappos, or anywhere.
They increased the price from $320 around 2020, the only price increase they’ve made in over 15 years. Given the circumstances, that’s a pretty impressive commitment to keeping the price down as much as possible.
This resoleable boot hasn't changed in almost a hundred years, it's the ultimate casual lace up boot that deserves the reputation for quality.
Thursday Boot Company
- $199
These boots are only $199, whether you get them from Thursday’s site or Amazon. (Amazon has fewer colors, sizes, and widths; we recommend getting them from Thursday, especially since it’s way easier to do returns and exchange with them.)
A groundbreaking boot that combines dress boots and casual boots for a versatile, go-anywhere piece of footwear that's fully resoleable.
What’s Changed: Thursday Boots vs Red Wing
While the heritage boot world often resists change, some developments are inevitable.
Price
Red Wings raised the price of the Iron Rangers by about $30 in the last 10 years, which isn’t that bad, and now they cost $350.
Thursday Boots has managed to keep the Captain at the same price, $199, for the last decade, which is honestly quite an impressive achievement.
Construction
- Both are Goodyear welted boots with unusual differences to their contemporaries
- Instead of a leather insole and midsole, the Iron Ranger has no midsole, so as to boost flexibility
- Instead of a leather insole and midsole, Thursday has a Poron foam insole so as to boost shock absorption
As far as construction, both Red Wing and Thursday are pretty much the same as they were when I bought my first pairs. There have been some changes to the soles.
Iron Rangers made after 2018 don’t have a famously slippy nitrile cork sole. Now, all Iron Rangers have the Vibram mini lug sole. That’s a high-performance, oil-resistant, flexible, yet low-profile rubber sole that’s 7 millimeters thick.
Thursday offers a choice of two soles. Their newer sole, the StormKing, is luggy and thick. The Captain with the Storm King sole isn’t dressy like the “classic collection” Captains that have sleeker studded outsoles. The StormKing ones also have a steel shank, so you get more stability.
Leathers
Red Wing offers fewer options of leather and only a couple of new ones, such as a light-colored oiled roughout leather called Slate Muleskinner, released in 2022, and a green full-grain leather called Alpine Portage, released in 2024.
Thursday has 15 options, and they’ve released a line of hardwearing, Rugged and Resilient leathers that don’t need much care and look great as you beat them up and a weatherproof suede that’s easy to maintain.
New Models
Red Wing also released a new type of Iron Ranger called the Iron Ranger Traction Tread that has the same sole as their Classic Moc Toe boots but attached an Iron Ranger upper. I interviewed Red Wing’s head of Product Design & Development, Mark Larson; he explained they added more modern materials for an easier break, like a chrome-tanned leather and taxon footbed that’s got more shock absorption than the classic Iron Ranger’s leather insole.
Wrapping Up
I do love the Iron Ranger, and I get why it’s such a popular boot: the timeless appeal of a true workboot is real. If that’s what you’re looking for, by all means, get yourself a pair.
But if you have a few hundred bucks, you’re looking to buy a pair of boots and you want to get the most possible wear out of them, I think you can’t beat the Captain boot for price and versatility. I simply find myself reaching for my Captains more often. And if you’re looking for more styles, Thursday has expanded its offerings, selling everything from cowboy boots to hiking boots and dress shoes.
Menduel
Owning both boots I have to agree with in pretty much every aspect of your review. My only add is that my Captains in black look and feel a bit formal in jeans in my opinion. Love them for work which is business casual. But I feel like I’m wearing dress shoes with jeans. They are new, maybe when beat up a bit they will make me more comfortable in jeans. Also, mine had a harsh chemical smell. Hasn’t entirely gone away after two months but has greatly lessened. It was very noticeable and a whole room was filled with the smell. Are you aware of this? Not sure if it was just my pair or all of the black Thursday’s. Anyway, love the site keep up the great work.
Nick
Yes, that’s a great point about the black boots. Very different experience and level of dressiness. Didn’t have the smell issue with my Thursdays, then again there’s probably a different way of processing them!
Francis
Would you recommend wearing insoles with either boot?
Nick
Honestly Francis that’s more of a question for your podiatrist, like if you have foot pain or fallen arches or something like that. I don’t, so I don’t wear insoles.
Robert
Hi Nick,
i would appreciate your advice re sizing please. i have read the sizing guide and even went to the website of Thursday Boots to check. i wear the 9EE of the Iron Rangers and Thursday Boots recommend a 9.5 (i was looking at one of the Captains that does not have the wide sizes – the new Saddle). i’m here in Oz and hard to do a return if i get the wrong size. i tend to be on the wider size shoe fit but just a bit concerned in case the 9.5 proves to be longer. i understand it’s difficult but would you agree with Thursday’s recommendation, coming from someone who also owns an Iron Ranger?
Thank you and warm greetings from the homeland.
Robert
Nick
Oh that’s tough, Robert. Honestly, if wide isn’t available in the color you want I don’t think you should get them, seems too big a risk.
Jon
Hi Nick,
If I measure 12 on a brannock device. I wear 11 in 1k and also 11 in Iron Rangers. Would 11 be good in the captain or would 11.5 be better? Thursday recommends 11 but I have read on some forums that they are run tighter than IR. Some say to size down half others size down full and other say true to size. But the 1K in 11 fit me perfectly.
Warm regards,
Nick
I think 11 will be fine in Thursdays, I wear 11 in all of those. Thursday is a bit sleeker around the toes than the other models, yeah, but I feel like 11 will be fine for you unless you have a wide foot which I don’t think you do.
Robert
Thanks Nick for the advice
Daniel
After wearing Thursday Captains for a year I have to say they’re not worth the money. The outside construction is solid but the interior stitching around the sole came undone after about 150 miles, making the boots painful to walk in.
Nick
Sorry to hear it, Daniel! Might be worth contacting Thursday, they’re usually pretty good about repairing or replacing.
Glenn
Hey Nick.
Quick question you might be able to help me with.
I currently own the loake 1880 burford, which are a bit tight on the pinky-toe but otherwise fit well.
Would you recomend keeping the size, and but going for a wide-last for the captains? Or are they wider then other more traditional boots like the Burford?
Nick
Hey Glenn, I haven’t tried Loake before so I can’t compare. Captains fit D and E widths in the “normal” width so I think you’ll be fine with them!
Jon
You said you’ve “worn the hell” out of each, but I’m interested in what Thursday has to offer in terms of lifetime, and I wonder if they meet the same standards of quality that Red Wing is known for.
Nick
The leather on Red Wing is tougher, sure, but I find myself wearing the Thursdays more often for the comfort and style. The sad thing about owning so many boots is that I can’t do “1 year later” type posts on them because I’m always wearing in a new pair!
Troy
I’ve had my Thursday Captains for five years now wearing on average three days a week. I’ve run them through wet puddles, gravel, and open trails, as well as a 10 mile walk in the city. The boots are certainly more scuffed than when I started, but with a polishing every other month or so they have aged remarkably well. They fit even better than when I first bought them the only real signs of aging on the heel where I tend to knock stuff around and the sole. As far as the sole goes I’m looking into getting it replaced soon not for any holes or the like more so to keep traction on the slicker days.
Nick
Troy thanks so much for your comment! I don’t wear mine as hard as that so this is really valuable input. Five years before a resole is pretty impressive for anyone! Which leather did you get?
Dennis Miller
I have two pairs of Redwing and just ordered Thursday Captain. I’m looking forward to the Thursday boots to compare them, and hopefully enjoy both. Great review, Nick. Thanks.
Nick
Glad you liked it Dennis! Both different shoes but both have their place in every guy’s wardrobe.
Nels Larson
I saw your review and I completely disagree with your picking Thursday boot over the Red Wing. The Red wing is far superior in materials as well as construction and will last at least twice as long as the Thursday boot. The Red wing looks like a quality boot and the Thursday boot looks cheap in comparison. The Red wing boots makes you look like you are ready for anything and the Thursday boot looks like your ready to go skipping for the afternoon.
Nick
Hey, skipping is hard work! Nah Nels I respect your take, which is best really depends on your style and what you’ll use the boots for. I find Thursdays more comfy, versatile, and cost effective, but I love Red Wings as much as the next guy. There’s room for both!
Ben Rolfe
Hi Nick,
Do you find you wear the same size in both the Redwing and Thusdays?
I can only find Redwings to try on locally here in Perth with Thursdays boots only online. Im tempted to buy both Thurdays for my smarter dressier pair and redwings for travel hiking everday kick abouts. also how do sizings compare to what you would normally wear in sneakers?
Appriciate your thoughts.
Nick
I actually don’t! I’m 11.5 in Thursday and 11 in Red Wing. Sneakers I’m usually a 12.
HollywoodDave
Wow. exact same sizes in all three!
Simon Jones
Hi Nick,
I am considering buying a pair of Captains, which is a little more expensive where I live once international shipping and taxes are included. I wanted to ask how your Captains are holding up after a few years of wear? Are they still comfortable?
And do you know whether there is any difference in comfort between the Thursday Chrome Captains and the Rugged and Resilient line?
Nick
Rugged and Resilient has a tougher break in, it’s less comfy from the get go — but it gets there! I wear the boots a ton and they hold up great, if you don’t have other GYW boot brands near you these are worth getting