Thursday Captain Boot Review (2025) | Five Years Testing the “Anywhere Boot”

I’m the kind of weirdo who decided to make a living by testing and reviewing boots, and in the last seven years I’ve wear tested hundreds of boots, filmed hundreds of YouTube videos, and visited factories and tanneries in eight countries.

And when strangers ask me for my go-to boot recommendation, I still find myself recommending Thursday’s Captain boot.

Sure, some guys I’ve met only wear handwelted Japanese boots that cost four figures. But what does the average guy who isn’t glued to footwear subreddits want from in a boot? Something just like this.

The Captain is inexpensive, matches with any wardrobe, comes in a ton of widths and colors, is easy to return and exchange, and they’re more comfortable and lightweight than traditional bulky work boots.

I’d say the two things that turn most guys off from getting a good resoleable boot is the price and the break in, and Thursday offers an unprecedented product that fixes both issues — or fixes them as much as you can. Let’s take a closer look at the boot that turned a humble Kickstarter page into the industry’s leading brand: Thursday’s Captain boot.

The Pros and Cons of Thursday’s Captain Boot

You may have guessed that I’m a little obsessive when it comes to boots, and this multi-year review is as in-depth as it gets. So here’s a quick summary for guys who have other things to do today.

Who Should Buy the Thursday Captain Boot? 

• Those who want a versatile “anywhere boot”: this is a hybrid of dress and work boots that looks great with just about any outfit.
• People who want great value: at under $200, this is far and away the best price for resoleable boots, which are hard enough to find for under three hundred bucks.
• Guys who prize durability and water resistance: Most guys buy boots because they want something that can endure rain, resoles, and daily wear and tear. The Goodyear welt and hardy leather mean the longevity is great.
• Folks who find most boots uncomfortable: instead of work boot-style leather uppers and insoles, Thursday chose some more comfortable materials, like a Poron foam footbed, to reduce break in and improve shock absorption.
• People who want a variety of options to choose from: there are well over a dozen different leathers available (some more hardy, some more dressy), plus two sole options.
• Guys with wide feet: these come in both wide and extra-wide sizes.

Who Shouldn’t Buy the Thursday Captain Boot? 

• Anyone who needs a seriously heavy duty work boot or hiking boot: it’s very durable and stable, but the Captain lacks the technical features of boots designed for jobsites (like ASTM ratings) or hiking (like waterproof membranes).
• Those who prefer American made: for that, check out Thursday’s slightly pricier Vanguard.
• People who prefer traditional, chunky boots: the Captain is more streamlined than old work boots made for iron mines and railroads.
• Guys who prefer leather insoles: Thursday instead uses shock absorbing foam so as to improve comfort and break in, but some guys prefer hard leather footbeds.

Thursday Captain Boot Overview

• “Hybrid” of a dress boot and work boot
• Cap toe
• Low profile, not bulky
• 5.5″ tall, plus 1.25″ of heel
• Two rows of speed hooks to get in and out fast

Before getting to the interior of these leather boots, let’s do a quick “first glance” and what you see when you unbox them.

Boots come in all shapes and sizes and purposes. Some are for fighting fires, some are for riding horses, some are for military parades, and some are for the average guy who wants footwear that looks cool, will last for years, doesn’t break the bank, absorbs shock, and will keep their feet dry in the rain. That’s the Captain.

Don’t expect boots for welding iron, they’re not as cool as they sound. They take forever to break in, they never feel soft underfoot, and it looks weird if you wear them to a restaurant.

What you should expect with the Captain is an unusually versatile boot that matches almost whatever you’ll wear with them. If you love wide and baggy jeans, it might not be for you, but for just about anyone else, this is just the right kind of uncontroversial look that will fit in with most wardrobes and situations.

About 5.5 inches tall with a 1.25-inch heel, the Captain isn’t without its historicity; it’s inspired by service boots, the type worn by US soldiers in the World Wars that are typified by simple derby-style lacing, a flat sole (though you can get a chunky, luggy one if you want) and a relatively low profile toe. It’s a design that’s both classic and timeless, pleasing to the eye because we’ve been making this kind of boot for a long, long time.

The 3 Kinds of Thursday Captain Boot Leather

• Two categories: “Rugged and Resilient” for harder wear, “Classic” for more versatility
• ~1.8-2.0 millimeters thick
• Sourced from well-known tanneries, mostly Lefarc and Horween

As part of their mission to cater to guys who want good leather boots but don’t want weeks of blistery break ins, the Captain’s leather is about 1.8 – 2.0 millimeters thick. Work boots tend to be over 2.2 millimeters, dress shoes tend to be under 1.4 millimeters, so the Captain’s leathers fit Thursday’s M.O. of “not so tough that it’s painful, not so comfortable that it’s delicate.”

Right now, there are over a dozen leathers to choose from and they fall into three main categories.

The Rugged and Resilient Leathers

• More casual, more weatherproof, more dynamic color

The average guy thinks of boots as footwear that can brave any kind of weather, and this category really leans into this aspect.

At the risk of getting too detailed about leather chemistry (I’ve been to a lot of tanneries), when the primary goal of a leather is for it to handle rough weather, it’s often oil tanned: imbued with bunch of extra oils and waxes during its production to make it more hydrophobic. It also makes it less likely to dry out, so this leather doesn’t need much care and conditioning.

At the same time, all the oils give the color highs and lows, especially the more you wear it: this is leather that looks both tough and beautiful. The best of both worlds, bringing to mind well loved work boots of old.

That’s the Rugged and Resilient line, which contains the two most popular leathers for the Captain boot: “Arizona Adobe” and “Black Matte.” They have a lot of upsides, with the downsides are they’re harder to dress up and you’re more likely to have a tricky break in than you are with the Classic leathers.

The Classic Leathers

• More comfy and easier to dress up

Guys who need more versatility from their boots can pick from the Classic line. Not all of the Classic leathers are easy to dress up; the leather on my most worn Captains that I’ve put in most of the photos here, called “Terracotta,” is in the Classic category.

I’d say the main difference between Classic and Rugged and Resilient is that the Classic leathers are more comfortable: they aren’t produced in the same work boot-y way as the Rugged line, so they’re a little softer. (I had blisters the first time I wore a Rugged leather, but I didn’t with the Classic ones.)

The Classic category is also where you’ll find boots that are easier to dress up: most of them are smoother, a little shinier, and more consistent in color. You’ll have no issues wearing them with jeans, but it’s not hard to toss on a sport coat and tie and bring them to the office, either.

The Suedes and Roughouts

• Textured, scratchproof, and usually waterproof

There are usually some Captains in suede and/or roughout. While these are different products, they both put the “flesh” side of the leather on the outside, which is why they’re fuzzy.

Thursday sells two kinds of suede: a traditional one (usually called “snuff suede”) and their “WeatherSafe” suede, which is so full of hydrophobic oils that water bounces right off of it. Appearance-wise, the WeatherSafe suedes are very close to regular ones, though they’re a little less “3D” looking because the nap doesn’t lift off the leather as much. Because it’s all oily!

That’s one way they make suede boots that are more stainproof than traditional products. Sometimes they’ll sell boots made with the more old fashioned way of waterproofing suede: waxed flesh.

That’s roughout that’s been hit with a coat of wax, which slowly wears away to produce a very cool kind of patina. I wore some waxed flesh Thursday Hero boots for a while to give you an idea of how it wears.

Thursday’s Leather Quality

All of Thursday’s leather is from United States cattle and it’s produced in a few different tanneries. The best known is Horween Leather Company in Chicago, who produce the world famous Chromexcel leather you can see on the Natural Captain and most of the Vanguard boots.

Most of the uppers are from Lefarc tannery in the Mexico’s shoemaking hub of León, who also make leather for brands like Timberland, Huckberry, and Saddleback. I actually visited Lefarc a few years back (they wanted me to try making my own boot leather) and their commitment to sustainability is seriously impressive, earning them a gold rating from industry watchdog the Leather Working Group.

Thursday Captain Boot Leather Care

• Give a proper clean and conditioning once or twice per year
• Thursday created Cobbler’s Choice for use on their products
• Buff with a horsehair brush

It’s good to moisturize your boots regularly — it is skin, after all, and it’ll look better and last longer if it isn’t left to dry out.

Well, the Captains made of suede or roughout don’t need conditioning. You might want to clean them now and then, but they don’t need cream or anything. It’d mess up the nappy surface.

We’re also told the Rugged and Resilient leathers are so oily that they don’t need conditioning at all. It’s really just the Classic leathers you’re meant to hit with some shoe cream every now and then, but there’s no harm in doing the same to your Rugged leathers too.

I know that no one wants to have to look after their boots (aren’t they meant to be tough?!) but even lumberjacks need to moisturize. If you like the look of old leather, it’s because it’s been taken care of — but really, it’s not that hard. The average guy just needs to follow these steps:

1. First, rub them down with a damp rag. (If they’re really dirty, try Cobbler’s Choice Leather Cleaner. If they’re insanely dirty, see our guide to Saddle Soap.)
2. Dab some Leather Conditioner on the rag and work it into the leather.
3. Once you’ve worked the balm into all the creases, gently wipe the boot down until there’s just a thin film of balm on the shoe.
4. Buff it with a horsehair brush, let them dry for ten minutes, and they’re good to go.

How often you should condition the boots depends on how often you wear them, but I think twice a year — at the start and end of boot season — is a good recommendation.

Thursday Captain Boot Sole

• 2 rubber soles options to choose from: Flat or “StormKing”

If you want a more casual and outdoorsy boot, get a Captain with the chunky StormKing sole. For a more versatile option, get one with the flat rubber sole. Don’t assume that the latter option is slippery like leather soles; they have recessed lugs that give you plenty of grip without screaming “outdoorsy” like the StormKing does.

I’ve worn these during every kind of storm and flurry we get in New York City, and didn’t once find myself skittering into a gutter the way I have with certain leather soled boots I’ve tried.

Thursday Captain Boot Construction

• Foam insole for shock absorption
• Vegetable-tanned leather midsole
• Steel shank improves stability
• Leather lining

A few things make the Captain stand out in the history of boots: the low price, low break in, and modern versatility chief among them. But the really big deal here is the Goodyear welt construction.

Sneakers are usually cemented (glued) while nicer footwear often stitches the upper to the sole, while the Goodyear welt is an extra complicated method that attaches the upper and the sole to a leather welt between the two. This makes them easy to resole as many times as you like, drastically improving their longevity, while also making your boot water resistant enough for any rainstorm.

No, they’re not waterproof. Resoleable boots are practically never waterproof and usually have some kind of bulky waterproof membrane under the leather, but look: unless you’re fishing in a pond all day, you don’t need waterproof boots. A Goodyear welt is more than suitable for whatever weather the average guy will encounter in his daily life.

Are Thursday Boots Comfortable?

This kind of construction quality has other benefits: the leather midsole and cork filling conform to your foot’s shape with time, eventually producing something that feels custom made to your foot. It’s a big reason why there are so many guys who only wear welted footwear like this, even though they aren’t that comfy on day one.

By eschewing the traditional leather insole for the shock absorbing foam, it’s true that they won’t conform to your foot quite as nicely as boots with all leather construction. But what you lose with that foam you gain with an improved break in and shock absorption. These feel more like sneakers than your average boots — I love traditionally made boots, but they do tend to feel like you’re walking on hardwood.

So, Captains are lighter and softer than the kind of boots that are responsible for the word “break in,” but there’s still a decent chance your first few wears will be uncomfortable, especially if you get a Rugged and Resilient leather.

I always give the same advice to guys with new boots: bring a pair of sneakers with you the first few times you wear them. That way, you can change out of the boots when they start hurting but before you get blisters. After a few wears, this won’t be necessary!

How to Size Thursday Captain Boots

• Order a half size smaller than your typical sneaker size
• Half sizes and 3 widths available

Thursday changed their sizing at the end of 2023, so listen up.

The rule for sizing Thursday boots is: order a half size smaller than your sneakers.

Most boot brands recommend subtracting a half size from your Brannock measurement (that’s the device you measure your foot in at the shoe store, sometimes called your “true size”).

But when I asked Thursday’s CEO Nolan Walsh if that’s what he meant by “a half size smaller than your sneakers,” he said that they received fewer returns and exchanges when customers order a half size smaller than sneakers than when they ordered a half size smaller than Brannock.

So look at all your sneakers, get the average size, and go down a half size.

A big benefit of the size of this company is that they can offer multiple widths, an extravagance that smaller footwear brands can’t pull off. You can get the Captain in Wide and Extra Wide for EE and EEE feet — not for all the leathers, but the more popular the leather the more widths you can choose from.

If your feet feel too wide for your boots, you have the option of ordering a wider width, but many find success by simply sizing up half a size. Since Thursday does free exchanges, it might be worth trying both of those strategies for hard-to-fit feet before deciding this boot just isn’t for you. (And that does happen, sometimes. I simply can’t get a good fit in Thursday’s Duke Chelseas, but that’s another review.)

[Further Reading: How to Size Thursday Boots]

Thursday Captain Boot Price

• $199

The Captain, and the majority of Thursday’s boots, cost $199 on both their official site and Amazon, inclusive of shipping.

I get that this company is often a guy’s first foray into boots after a lifetime of sneakers, and he might find it rich to call that a great deal. But I encourage you to look around the market: nobody makes boots that can be resoled infinity times at this price point. Almost every other Goodyear welted boot on the market is over $300.

I even whipped up an exhaustive list of other boots that cost under $200 and none of them come close to this quality. (No, Dr. Martens don’t count, they can’t be resoled.)

Thursday Captain Boot Alternatives

“How can I get something similar without paying so much?” You can’t. This boot is the best-made boot at this price. Other brands have tried to offer the same quality:price ratio, but they went out of business. (RIP Portland and Rhodes.)

Here are some other good boots, though.

Red Wing’s Iron Rangers: An extraordinarily popular casual boot, the Iron Ranger has the advantage of being made in the USA, but it’s $150 more expensive, doesn’t absorb shock well at all (there’s no midsole), and the break in is much tougher. It’s also way chunkier, but maybe that’s the look you’re after.

Meermin’s Boots: This is probably the next best value for a boot in the same casual category as Thursday. The tanneries are great and the build is solid, but they usually cost around $275. Still, the best place to shop if you’re looking for unusual leathers like kudu or cordovan.

Jim Green’s African Rangers: They’re resoleable, and they’re under $200, but they’re closer to hiking boots than city boots.

Thursday Captain Boot: To Buy or Not to Buy?

Again, as a guy who writes about boots and visits factories and tanneries for a living, I recommend Thursday more often than any other brand. There are boots that are more complex and use leathers from super artisanal tanneries, but they cost hundreds of dollars more — and I’ve been around long enough to know that the average guy doesn’t think those differences are worth that much extra.

No one’s doing better boots for $200 but even if money isn’t a factor for you, the Captain‘s versatility, vast array of leathers and sizes, low break-in, foam footbed comfort, and free shipping and exchanges make them worth looking at for anyone.

Traditionalists might prefer a leather insole over Poron foam, some guys prefer bulkier builds, and some dudes need boots with ASTM ratings for factory work. These guys will want to look elsewhere.

But the reason Thursday has gotten so popular is that they’re ideal for the average use case: most guys just want handsome, comfy, rainproof boots that look good with anything. For a one-and-done anything boot, no one’s close to Thursday.

Thursday Captain FAQ

Here are the most frequently asked questions from guys looking to buy Thursday’s Captain boot.

What type of boot is Thursday Captain?

Thursday Captain Boots are cap toe service boots, which means they're leather lace up boots with stitching across the toes and a fairly low profile — they're not big and blocky like work boots, rather they're suitable for casual and business casual wear.

Are Thursday captains waterproof?

They’re very water resistant, though not technically waterproof. Their Goodyear welt construction and water resistant leather mean your socks will stay dry in a rainstorm, they’re just not ideal for standing in a lake fishing all day.

Are Thursday boots durable?

Yes, they have all the hallmarks of your traditional rough and tumble boots: full grain leather, leather midsoles, and Goodyear welt construction — so you can replace the sole when you need to and thereby extend the boot’s lifespan. If you need something to handle a jobsite and electrical hazards you should perhaps look elsewhere, but for daily wear it’s far more durable than a sneaker.

Are Thursday Captain boots resolable?

Yes, all of the Captain boots can be resoled because of their Goodyear welt construction. Some are made with storm welts, but this is just another kind of Goodyear welt that's extra water resistant.

Do you think they are good for everyday casual wear or too clunky?

The Captain boot stands out in the market for its unusual silhouette: slimmer than a chunky work boot, but less dainty than dress boots. This makes for an extremely versatile piece of footwear that can be paired with everything from a blazer to a t-shirt.

How do I care for the Thursday Captains?

It depends on the leather; there are over a dozen different kinds to choose from. For most of the leathers, applying Cobbler’s Choice Leather Conditioner every 6 to 12 months will help to hydrate the leather and improve its longevity. The Rugged & Resilient lines don't need conditioning, but it’s also a good idea to leave cedar shoe trees in the boots between wears to help maintain their shape and reduce moisture.

How long does it take to break in Thursday’s Captains?

Usually, no time at all: the leather is about 0.2 millimeters thinner than most chunky work boots plus there’s shock absorbing foam on the insole, both of which make for a boot that’s easier to break in. However, Thursday’s “Rugged and Resilient” line of leathers are tougher and stiffer and will take a few wears to soften up.